Vernaccia di San Gimignano stands out among the top wines of Tuscany, being the region's only white wine to have reached the lofty heights of DOCG status. Long before its DOCG promotion (in 1993) its renown was well established and it was among the very first wines officially classified when Italy introduced the DOC system in 1966.
A brief history
Vernaccia-based wine from San Gimignano has a long history, and since the Renaissance period has been considered one of Italy’s oldest and most noble wines. Its fame has no doubt been strongly connected to its region of origin: San Gimignano – an ancient Tuscan town famed for its medieval towers.
The Vernaccia wine grape is mentioned as early as 1276 in San Gimignano’s records and in Dante’s Divine Comedy. Its name is thought to originate from the word "vernaculum", which means 'of the place' and is the etymological root of the English word 'vernacular'.
As might be expected there are several grape varieties known as "Vernaccia" – which just happened to be the local grape variety used in their respective regions. Although there are several other Vernaccias in the country, such as in Marche and Sardinia, Vernaccia di San Gimignano is unique to this area in Tuscany.
It was a wine considered to be fit for a king and Pope Martin IV was said to be especially partial to eels cooked in Vernaccia.
Despite its prominence, Vernaccia di San Gimignano does not seem to be as internationally renowned as many other prestigious Italian wines – particularly the limelight-grabbing reds. Nevertheless it is one of the most charismatic and distinctive Italian whites.
It is recognized for its golden-hued color, powerful and full-bodied nature, heady floral bouquet, dry, crisp and persistent flavors, high levels of acidity and a characteristic bitter aftertaste. It also reflects its terroir, offering mineral characteristics of stone (particularly flint) from the sandstone soils where the grapes are grown.
Grape varieties
DOCG rules stipulate that this white must be made predominantly from Vernaccia grapes, although wineries are permitted to include up to 15 percent of other non-aromatic white grapes permitted in Tuscany (but grown in the San Gimignano area).
In particular, Traminer, Moscato bianco, Muller Thurgau, Malvasia di Candia, Malvasia Istriana and Incontro Bruni 54 (a hybrid of Vernaccia and Sauvignon Blanc) are explicitly forbidden from Vernaccia di San Gimignano. However, Sauvignon Blanc and/or Riesling are allowed up to a maximum of ten percent.
The DOCG's riserva wines are made from the best grapes, and must spend at least 11 months year aging in the cellar, either in stainless steel or oak, as well as a further period of three months in bottle prior to release.
