Beppu a trip report

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別府 Beppu trip report

Hi there, I was going to do a live trip report, but there were so much emotions happening that I just didn’t have the time to share what here it is. Please see the days in the comments.

Monday, April 15, 2024

I arrive from Yufuin in with my newly met cousin Ichiro. As we made our descent from on top of the mountain into beautiful Beppu, one could see as far as that I could see a plethora of plumes of smoke everywhere indicating that their lies. A hot spring.

I haven’t been back to beppo in over 12 years since my grandmother is one year death anniversary in 2012. Now I’m here solo for the first time family lives in Beppu anymore. I’m here on somewhat like a pilgrim. I guess he could say as my mother‘s birthday is two days away, and although she may be gone, I felt like I needed to come and visit the town of her birth. Her life celebrate our memories together as this is the place of my childhood on very long, hot summer nights and days I would come and visit, and stay with my grandmother along with my mother so many memories here

My cousin decided to drive me towards the old house on  Noguchi Motomachi which no longer is there. I didn’t have the heart to tell him that he was going the wrong way because I could go to that house with my eyes shut from the train station to my grandmother’s house, hoping to see my grandmother

My cousin drops me off a little bit early for my request to my hotel as I wanted to not bother him so much as he already picked me up and took me here, but also I have dinner with him later on in the evening and his family will be meeting for the first time as well

Japan is very much always on the dot when it comes to timing   When they say 3 PM check-in 3 PM check-in. it’s been like that for the last two places.

The HanaBeppu hotel is situated about a five minute walk from Beppu  train station a three minute walk from Beppu Koen.

Since I wasn’t able to get checked in, I decided to walk around and get myself familiar with the city center   Unfortunately for me it was pouring rain pouring rain  I made my way down to the train station and a flood of memories just hit me like a plan of bricks might have things have changed and something have not changed   my way to the Eki Mae but I was so shocked and surprised to see how dead everything was.  Not sure if it’s because it was raining or if just things have really gone south.  Which doesn’t make too much sense because from my drive coming in I noticed how much the city has grown and how much or rather how modern it’s becoming  my cousin told me that within the Oiita Prefecture , Beppu the city that grown the most.

I was really bummed that so many things were closed. It just looks so desolate.   I even went into Tokiwa department store which was once a glorious store where I used to go with my mom and my grandmother and they would so beautifully wrap gifts or rather purchases like they were gifts but again just nobody I’m gonna chalk it up to the time of day and the fact that it’s raining.

I couldn’t even find a place to eat   I was forced to go downstairs of Tokiwa doesn’t look like how it used to to eat curry udon.

Somewhat satisfied, I left I still had an hour to kill.  oh no someone help me there are two pachinko galleries across the other. I guess I should just go in.  A few thousand yen down the drain (thank you amazing exchange rate) it was time for me to check in.

A quick walk back to the hotel and I was sat down on a lovely lounge chair overlooking a beautiful Japanese garden with some remnants of Sakura blossoms still on the tree   no shoes allowed in this hotel which means you must take your shoes off like you’re entering someone’s home and you will remain without your shoes the entire time you’re on property  Check was a breeze. I was shown the facilities. oh my stars I’m going to live in the onsen ofuro

My room is gigantic. There are two beds though, but it’s OK if I get bored on one I can go to the other.  It’s a large living room, separate bathroom, huge shower and bathtub en suite and commending views of the surrounding mountains of beautiful Beppu

My luggage was already waiting for me in my room when I sent it from Hakata three days ago   Seriously it cost me only $14 to send it and it’s a large suitcase. Instead of heading to the bath, I decided to rearrange and unpack my other suitcase and stow away all the things I acquired in Yufuin.

At 6 o’clock prompt, my cousin picked me up with his wife and took me up the mountain for amazing Japanese Italian food. I know I know.   His son and two grandchildren joined us all of them, my cousins and it was a wonderful first time meeting. The kids are absolutely adorable and they were even more adorable over the large bottle of wine. My cousin and I shared.  we talked a lot about my mom. I shared with them who she was how amazing she was and how much they would’ve loved her after a lovely dinner they dropped me off. I quickly changed gathered my things for the baths went downstairs and indulged for a good 40 minutes.  Red is a lobster. I retired to my room and slept an ecstasy once I figured out the stupid AC in my room

angelina1813 · Accepted Answer

Tuesday April 16, 2024

Day 2

I woke up really early this morning excited to be back inBeppu. When I open the curtains, the mist was rising from the land and inching its way up the mountain as the sun was coming out and the clouds were departing. Today is going to be a spectacular day.

On today’s agenda are the seven Hells -4. I’m going to start off at. Umi Jigoku I make my way down visiting a few of the hells And eventually make my way down to the Hyotan ofuro.

But before I go out for the day, I must make sure I’m refreshed and clean and comfortable so downstairs. I went again for my morning onsen ofuro. I have to mention that while I brought tattoo covers I have not once covered my tattoos yet. Maybe it’s because I look hakujin I don’t know, but no one‘s bothered me and I’ve been respectful not to flash things in peoples faces.

Once I was already headed down to Beppu train station where I will be catching the bus number two or 7 to umijigoku.

But first coffee and something to eat I did not book breakfast at this hotel, as I didn’t think it would be worth it and to be quite honest I’m kind of tired right now from all that food I had the past two locations I needed to turn down a little and the way to do that is to control my eating and what I put in my mouth

The train station was very quiet besides, the minor hustle and bustle were closed The only place opened was the family Mart and the Seattle’s best coffee I mean you’ve got your choices from Starbucks up the road from my hotel or Seattles best. It’s insane how they infiltrated everywhere around the world. Since I still had some time to kill, I decided to walk to my mothers old home back in 2002 the temple behind my mother/grandmother’s house had the occupants in surrounding areas move out because they wanted to expand the temple that meant my grandmother had to move out it’s not like they didn’t buy her out but still can’t buy memories at that time, my grandmother was already 87 so moving in with my aunt wasn’t such a bad idea Walking to my mother’s Home was so nostalgic. I’m so proud of myself that I remembered exactly how to get there like it was yesterday. There is a house there now that looks very similar to what my grandmother‘s house used to look like. It may be off by maybe 5 feet from where the original used to be but it’s still pretty much almost in the same place so I don’t really get it. We used to use. It’s still across the street at least that has not changed.

I walked back to the train station and suddenly everything was open, and there was a little more life The day was getting hotter and it was only 845 in the morning. I think we’re in for a scorcher.

I had the option of taking number two or number seven to UmiJingu. Number seven arrived first and if I went I used my IC Suica Card via my app on my phone, grab the number and sat down. When I arrived at. My destination, I gave my number into the machine and I tapped out with my card, so lovely.

Umijigoku is situated above almost all of the other hells in the area. it is a very beautiful one to start at the walk around the area is gorgeous with lots of beautiful gardens and Tori gates and lots of beautiful shines. of course what everybody comes for is the large ocean blue hot spring. I was a little hungry, so I got myself one of the eggs and devoured it. It was delicious. After my visit there, I went to the other one that has all the clay but before going there I was still hungry so I had one of those famous Beppu custards. Mmmmm

I visited one more hell I can’t remember the name. I’m sorry it’s the one with the oni devil on top of a plug with his fork pointing down, keeping the demons at bay. They were a lot of tourist from a certain country that I’m not gonna mention who were making the experience a little unpleasant as a tend to do wherever they go in the world. In Japan, the honor system is huge. When you’re in the countryside like where my aunt lives during the summer when the produce come out, they may leave it in a little shock with a little coin box saying how much it cost and when you go to pick it up, you just put the money inside. At the last hall visited you could drink the Hot Springs water. Just leave a 10¥ donation into the box like it says to do. These people just kept coming and pushing, and I kept pointing for them to pay the price show them how to do it and they just look at me like I’m insane. Oh well, that’s how they are absolutely annoying.

I walked down following the path with all these wonderful stores, restaurants, and public baths everywhere. There are also beautiful little temples and shrines, and it makes such a beautiful walk.

I reached Hyotan an hour early unfortunately they were able to take me in and rearrange my meal. I was very grateful.

I made a few mistakes here One I would suggest not to do the hot sand unless you have another person with you who can help you dig because it is not easy to dig deep and get your body in. Secondly make sure you ask for a towel so you don’t end up calling them on the phone in the bathroom because you’re soaking wet and can’t find a towel that was such a rookie move.

The bath there are really pretty and very nice. They are all different types of Hot Springs water from Cypress wood, rock, other types of specialties. It’s quite large and really pretty.

The food was OK Had the Beppu specialty which is called.Raemen not Ramen. Which is a cold chewy noodle very much like the Korean counterpart. It was just OK.

After I was done, I walked back up to catch the bus back to my hotel. I need to drop off all the things I just bought.

Once I dropped off the things I just bought. I walked over to. Beppu Koen to check out the park but first Starbucks

The park is really beautiful and quiet and tranquil. Someone was taking wedding photos. Sadly, there aren’t enough benches to sit on especially around the bamboo forest side. I thought it was quite a shame because it would be nice to sit. And enjoy the bamboo forest.

After the park, I walked down past the train station to the Tokiwa Dept store. I wanted to do some shopping.

I learned to valuable lesson here as there was a corner store within the department store, where I bought some things that I was going to consume like razors for my legs, another things and I made a rookie move and used tax-free option knowing well that I would be using the products And I’m not sure if you saw my other post on this topic, but I ended up returning the items and then buying it back with the tax anyway dramas

The department store is not like it used to be. It is really really sad. I would say it is quite empty. I think it only went up to fourth floor. Back in the day I would go to the rooftop and there will be a little carnival and games for us. Kids to play now things are just shut down. Not sure if Covid played a part in this. Or I’m just craving my nostalgia things change we can’t help it.

After dismal shopping, I went and played more Pachinko, which was also dismal, but very fun. And I made my way to the.Beppu Sake stand that my uncle told me to go to. There are a few sake stands, but this one was pretty spectacular I tried a few different ones and I help some American tourist decide which ones to order

Buzzed I walked down to the water and was pleasantly surprised to see these high school students getting all their tiny little sailboats ready to go out onto the ocean. I was so impressed. It was really cool.

The sun was beginning to set and my stomach was growling. But where to eat? I looked all over popping into different places to see if there’s anything I wanted to eat, but really I just wanted to eat Ramen real good Beppu style Ramen. And I found it. There was this elderly lady slurping away. I knew that meant it was good. Before my bowl came, she was done and she was complementing the chef and giving me the thumbs up 👍

It was divine and it hit the spot

Now I’m ready to go back to the hotel and soak in the Hot Springs and watch some Netflix and chill

angelina1813 · Answer

Wednesday April 17,2024

Day 3

Happy birthday mom I miss you so much. Today you would’ve been 91. And here I am in your old hometown thinking of you and remembering all the good times we’ve had here

This morning I woke up, feeling my mom and sending her a nice tribute out on Instagram today, I’ll be meeting my uncle my mom’s younger brother who I haven’t seen in 12 years and his wife for lunch

I went to the bath downstairs and enjoyed a lovely relaxing healing morning bath I feel like my body is feeling so much more better as I have been suffering from chronic sciatica for over a year now after I injured myself caring for my mom I’m 50 but have been feeling 78 and that is not good the Hot Springs water here have been healing me and I feel better today than I had felt in a long time

After my bath, I got ready and made my way back to the train for some of Seattle’s best and walked to my mom’s old house again or rather where it used to be and wished her happy birthday somewhat of a closure/remembrance/honoring

I walked around a bit didn’t really know what to do. Should I go and play Pachinko again? OK just a little bit. Getting it all out of my system 12 o’clock came and my aunt and uncle were punctual as Japanese tend to be. Wow they are getting old. I feel so blessed that I am able to see them in this stage of life. It’s quite beautiful. my uncle is tall just like me and he used to be an almost pro baseball player. His voice sounds exactly the same like it never aged deep and commanding Interestingly enough, my grandmother’s voice sounded very young. Also like she was a young woman maybe something in their genes.

They took me out to eat sushi and really tested me on my Japanese as they don’t speak a lick of English well I could definitely Google translate lot of things get lost in the translation if I am not quick enough. it was a lovely reunion and the food was really good. They dropped me off one hour later and I sat in my room thinking about my encounter seeing my uncle and aunt after all these years and how precious time is.

Now what to do? I was debating whether or not to go and see.Kifune castle. But after reading about them bringing out that white python ina net every time, I got totally turned off. I would much rather see a snake free even though they freaked me out. Obviously not here as they are not indigenous to hear the python that is.

Or are they?

I decided to go to Oita as it’s also been 12 years since I’ve been to the train station and the surrounding area. I used my ic Suica card to swipe in and get onto the train, but I had to pay an extra 500 on the train because it was a limited express. Good to know 20 mins later I landed at Oita station. Wow oita train station really changed. it’s all fancy and modern and huge. There is a huge department store above the train station even the bus terminals are different

I walked down to the ekimae as I used to play down here a lot as a young adult when I was bored at my aunts house, I would catch the bus and go shopping.

It was really a nice time in Oita

Back in Beppu I was looking forward to going to a sake stand again. Sadly, they were all closed, but the Beppu brewery which were closed the last two days is now open. So I enjoyed a fabulous sampler of three of their local beers and enjoyed Beppu karage chicken.

Now, here I am back at my hotel, eating my musubi, writing this to you all

Beppu was number one on my list of things to do while in Japan as I wanted to pay homage to my mother and also relive some memories of great times that I’ve had. Beppu is spectacularly beautiful. As is most definitely of Kyushu.

I got to spend time with a lot of family old and new. Three nights was the sweet spot.

I already sent my luggage off to Hiroshima today and now I will go downstairs and enjoy one last evening a fantastic hot spring bath Tomorrow …. Hiroshima.

Ps. Happy heavenly birthday okaasan.

ETflyer · Answer

As I mentioned in my earlier post, Beppu station area has been the town of the past. Local drive to YouMe Town, which you may know, or even to AMU Plaza Oita which has TOHO Cinema, Hands, etc.

Onsen facilities in Beppu accept visitors with tattoo, which has been known for onsen lovers. You're not exceptional.

angelina1813 · Answer

I’m sorry maybe I might find myself to be exceptional. Hahaha. I’m sure it’s just a translation thing. My hotel clearly states that they do not accept tattoos but are okay with wearing stickers. As was Hyotan. So no I’m sorry not all onsen places accept tattoos.

Sad to see these places of the past now just bones.

At least I have memories of what it used to be like.

I still found Beppu to be beautiful and lovely.

Thank you for your response. Aloha

ETflyer · Answer

Keep your memory. It will remain the same and lasts forever. There's a Japanese phrase for such a case, "natsukashii desune", which is a bit difficult to literally describe in other language.

My preference also goes to Beppu. It has more lunch and dinner option in addition to onsen. Onsen clouds of steam view always makes me realize that I am in Beppu and I like it.

ETflyer · Answer

I hope you're fine. My two iPhones alarmed an earthquake in western Shikoku a few minutes ago just before going to bed. Take care.

angelina1813 · Answer

Thank you I’m fine. My phone screamed at me and the bed moved ferociously. It was my very first earthquake ever.

My cousins texted me to make sure I was okay. Nothing happened except the earth moving. I hope there was no damage done anywhere

Edited: 5:04 pm, April 17, 2024

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Beppu a trip report

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