My name is Emilie Joly Johnson and I live with my family in a village just outside of Aix-en-Provence, France. I am American and grew up on the south shore of Boston. My husband (Xavier) is French and grew up in Paris. We have three daughters, who are bi-cultural girls.
Before moving to Provence eight years ago, our family lived in New York City, where my husband and I both worked in finance. Our girls were born in New York and although we love the city and its dynamism, we found the urban space oppressive with little ones. We wanted them to be set free, to run in open spaces, and smell fresh and wild things. We liked the idea of going back to France. We had lived in Paris for three years before we had our two younger girls and thought about returning.
I remember one arctic New York day in January of 2016 when Xavier and I met for lunch on Park Avenue near our offices. Xavier asked if we took out a map of the world and could live anywhere, where would I point. The first place that came to mind was Aix-en-Provence. Sun, good food, nature. For me, those three things define quality of life. I had spent time as a student in Aix-en-Provence and Xavier knew the region well – he has family living here and had spent all of his childhood summers on the Cote d’Azur.
Deeper than that though was a desire to eject from the kind of life we had. Our life felt frenzied and disconnected from the natural world.
Finding Our Dream, 400 Year Old House in Provence
When we started to look for properties in Provence, we drew a circle around Aix-en-Provence and only wanted to see properties that were at least 200 years old. We wanted to be close to Aix, as it is a town that is a cultural hub and is well-connected with the rest of France (TGV, airport). Provence is a beautiful region, but our favorite town was definitely Aix-en-Provence. Its approachable size, its beauty, its culture were all very aligned with what we were looking for.
We knew as soon as we saw our 400 year old house that it would be the one. We walked onto the property and looked at each other and just knew. It is a bastide, which is a particular type of architecture in this region. The stone walls are a meter thick, the ceilings are vaulted, one of the staircases is stone and spiral, there are 18th century paintings over the doorways of the bedrooms, the floors are ‘tomettes’ – ancient terracotta tiles. We got lucky as the house had largely been in the same family for centuries before the owners just prior to us took the trouble of putting in proper electrical work and plumbing.
Why Aix-en-Provence is Such a Magnificent Place
I am a photographer and writer, so my days are quite free and unstructured. I roam the region, explore and document compelling places to spend time. My favorite spots are wild ones – the region is replete with some of the best nature and light on earth, from my perspective. Most days we eat at least one meal outside. We are always taking in the light. The access to it. We are outside all the time. We bathe in the sunsets and breathe crystalline air. It informs all the other parts of living here.
Since we live in a village just outside of Aix-en-Provence, I spend time every week in town. Aix-en-Provence is a place of sun and elegance. The French are polished in a laid-back, chic way here. Aix has magnificent light that glazes everything a honey color, it is full of charming squares – hundreds of fountains serenade the town with a peaceful melody. Anyone who visits falls in love – the cobblestone streets that twist and yaw, the apricot facades. Aix exudes beauty at every turn.
Aix-en-Provence is blessed with a quality of light that is unparalleled. It has bewitched a long line of artists who have sojourned here to represent its casts and tones. Cantaloupe, honey, gold, aurelian, gilded, saddle beige: these are the colors of this beauty. Aix’s palette is kindled by the sun – this is a place where cerulean skies reign more than 300 days a year. One of the great pleasures of visiting Aix is drifting through the streets, imbuing nothing but her color.
My Favorite Spot in Aix-en-Provence: Square Richelme
My favorite spot in Aix-en-Provence is probably the Square Richelme in the morning at the fruit and vegetable market. The square is ornamented with huge plane trees, casting the market in dappled light. The market itself is magic. Locals shop their produce here – you’ll see them testing each piece of fruit or vegetable with a discerning caress. In the afternoon, the market is cleared away and the square is transformed into an outdoor café, where one can sit for hours, people-watching, sipping a cool drink.
7 Things To Do in Aix-en-Provence: My Personal Recommendations
1. Enjoy a Meal at the Exquisite Gallifet
Gallifet is a beautiful art center and exquisite restaurant in the heart of Aix-en-Provence. Showcased in a private Bastide, Gallifet features some of the best contemporary artists in France. The restaurant is seasonal and fresh – one will sit in the shaded courtyard of the bastide and enjoy a privileged moment in charming Aix.
2. Visit the Granet Museum – Collection Jean Planque
Granet XXe Collection Jean Planque features a unique compilation of many of the most pivotal artists of the 20th century in a beautifully renovated 16th century Carmelite White Penitent Brothers Chapel in Aix-en-Provence. The vaulted ceilings, baroque pillars and otherwise pure, bare aesthetic of the renovated space bring the works of Picasso, Renoir, Monet, Van Gogh, Gauguin, Braque, de Stael (among others) into beautiful relief.
3. Sip on Wine at La Meduse Restaurant & Bar
The gentlemen at La Meduse (restaurant and wine bar) in Aix-en-Provence are skilled guides, passionate about each bottle in their collection. This bar à vin is tucked away and the pairing of perfect style, wine and delicious morsels of food is divine.
4. Try the Delicious Patisseries at Maison Weibel
Maison Weibel in Aix-en-Provence defines patisseries as art – ogle over the lineup of masterpieces in the window at Weibel – eat many. Maison Weibel is a family affair, know-how that has been transmitted from generation to generation, drawing on the classic techniques of the grand patisserie houses of France and daring the art of crafting unique creations inspired by the region.
5. Dine Outside by a Fountain at L’incontournable
Charming and tucked away, L’Incontournable is a restaurant locals in Aix praise. The tables encircle the square’s fountain, which serenades diners with its plinking aria – the shade of the trees bless those sitting there in hot summer months. Everything here is fresh, the ingredients well-chosen. A lovely wine selection.
6. Marvel at the Paintings of Cezanne’s Studio
Travel back in time to imbue some of the soul of Cezanne, still conserved at the Atelier Cezanne. This is the birthplace of some of his most famous still life paintings, and of course, his obsessive tributes to the grand mountain of Aix-en-Provence, the Sainte Victoire. One immediately feels the presence of the painter. Cezanne said of Aix- en-Provence: “When one is born here, damn it, nothing else means anything to you.”
7. Check Out the Rose et Marius Perfume Store
Rose et Marius is a luxury perfume brand born in Provence. The region and its abundant ingredients are the source of inspiration for everything Rose et Marius produce. They offer perfumes, soaps, candles and a dried flower bar in their beautiful shop. They also host customized perfume workshops, where one can take a voyage through the history of perfume, the families of scent, and spend time mixing and weaving various scents together to create a personalized perfume.
Must-Try, Classic Dishes of the Aix-en-Provence Area
Aix-en-Provence offers a food tradition that is deeply rooted in the Mediterranean culture of the south of France. The best dishes will often be inspired and drawn from the sea itself. Unfailingly, the French in the south are obsessive about the quality and seasonality of the fruits and vegetables they use in cooking. A few of the most classic dishes from this area of the world are:
- Ratatouille: a quintessential Provencal dish featuring a hearty mix of eggplant, zucchini, bell peppers, tomatoes, onions, garlic – simmered together.
- Aioli: a garlic mayonnaise that is a Provencal classic. It’s commonly served as a dip with vegetables or fish.
- Tapenade: an iconic olive paste made from crushed olives, capers, anchovies and olive oil. This is a classic element of an apero in Provence.
- Bouillabaisse: a dish celebrated throughout Provence (but if you’re heading to Marseille, eat it there, as it is the dish’s birthplace). This is a fish stew with various types of local fresh fish.
- Soupe au Pistou: this vegetable soup is a staple in Provencal cuisine. A medley of fresh vegetables with white beans and a dollop of pistou (similar to pesto but without pine nuts).
- Calissons: a sweet treat unique to Aix-en-Provence, made from candied melon and almonds topped with a layer of royal icing.
Amazing Accommodations to Stay at in Aix-en-Provence
The hotels I would recommend are: Chateau de la Gaude with its exquisite gardens and food, Hotel le Pigonnet for its central location in Aix and its beauty, and Auberge La Coste, a beautiful hotel set amidst vines, art and the fine restaurants of Chateau La Coste.
How Many Days to Dedicate to Aix-en-Provence and the Region
2-3 days is a good amount of the time to dedicate to Aix itself, but a trip to Provence as a region should be at least 2 weeks to explore fully. The region is blessed with the Luberon Valley in the north, the sea in the south and so much in between.
Tips for Visiting Aix-en-Provence for the First Time
My biggest tip to people is to visit the region during the off-season. July and August taint the experience because of the masses of people who visit during that period. Some of the most magical aspects of Provence are entirely lost in peak season. Spring is absolutely heavenly: March and April are full of blossoming trees and plants everywhere, May brings poppy fields, the end of June is a better time to see the lavender fields before the hoards of people arrive. September is still sun-baked and October brings beautiful autumnal color to the vines.
People in France are not casual about dress or food. Don’t wear yoga leggings unless heading to a class. When one walks into a shop, address the owner and say “Bonjour.” Expect to eat at meal times and make reservations. The French have a certain rigidity with food and dining (a big reason their food culture has been so well-preserved). A meal reservation is rare before 7:30 pm, and that is still early for the French.
Come to Provence for your senses. For your eyes, a pitch-perfect palette cast in gilded light. For your ears, the bellowing mistral. For your nose, the musk of the blooming fruit trees. For your skin, air that is like a balm. For your tongue, the zest and authenticity in every bite you take and glass of wine you sip.
