Here’s the complete traveler’s guide to Svaneti, one of Georgia’s most beautiful regions. In this guide, you will find a detailed explanation about how to get to Svaneti Georgia, the top things to do and see in the wild heart of the Caucasus, how to get around, and an insight into the unique Svanetian culture, history, and cuisine!
Georgia is located in the Caucasus region, at the crossroad between Eastern Europe and Western Asia. Even though it’s a tiny country, it has a unique diversity in landscapes, nature, culture, traditions, and folklore.
Georgia is famous for its oldest wine and honey-making traditions, it has one of the oldest languages still spoken and a unique alphabet, and it’s home to Europe’s oldest continuously inhabited villages.
The ancient mountain regions in Georgia, such as Khevsureti, Tusheti and Svaneti, have best preserved Georgia’s culture, customs and art. Among all those, the region of Svaneti was best spared from the destruction of invaders thanks to its remote location.
Discover Georgia’s Highlights or go on a unique Georgia Trekking Adventure to Tusheti, Racha, Vardzia, Katskhi and Chiatura on one of my Georgia Adventure Tours!
Svaneti is a paradise for lovers of ancient culture and history, folklore, food, nature and adventure. The entire region of Svaneti is almost like an open-air museum for visitors.
I’ve visited Svaneti twice now and I keep loving it. Although some things have changed since my first visit in 2016 as it became more touristic, I still love the energy of this remote region in Georgia.
This travel guide will help you plan your trip to Svaneti Georgia so you can get the most out of your visit. You’ll find out how to get to Svaneti by public transport, where to stay, and what you can do in this region, including an overview of the best day hikes and places to visit in the region.
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Plan your trip to Georgia
1. Where is Svaneti Georgia
Svaneti is located in northwestern Georgia, locked in the heart of the Caucasus mountains and surrounded by mountain peaks from 3000 to 5000 meters high. It’s where you can find the highest mountain in Georgia, Mount Shkhara, standing high and mighty at 5,201 meters altitude.
Svaneti is one of the highest inhabited areas in the Caucasus and is home to the Svans, also known as the bravest of the Georgian people as they’re historically famous for being exceptionally fearless warriors and people of honor, pride, and traditions.
The Svaneti region consists of Lower and Upper Svaneti. Small villages are scattered on the snow-covered mountain slopes and surrounded by the breathtaking scenery of alpine meadows.
Walking around in the picturesque villages, which are dominated by tower-houses, gives you the feeling that you are thrown back in time into the European Middle Ages.
Upper Svaneti, which has been included in the UNESCO World Heritage Site list since 1996, is one huge open-air museum, “whereas the tourists who come here resemble Hollywood comedy characters, around whom the exhibits come to life” states Alex Chigvinadze in his article on Svaneti.
The administrative center of Svaneti is Mestia, a highland town with a population of fewer than 2000 people. It’s located at an altitude of 1500 meters and 670 km from Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia.
Reading Tip: The 15 most beautiful places to visit in Georgia
2. An insight into the interesting history and culture of Svaneti
No ruler was able to tame The ancient land of Svaneti and its people
Svaneti is known for its old history. According to several historical sources, the Svans have been living in this area since at least the 3rd millennium BC. They were known as fierce highland warriors and gatekeepers of the mountain passes. Their inflatable war banner was named Lemi (Lion).
Svaneti survived the waves of invasions and battles between the Ottoman Turks and Persians for centuries thanks to its remote location. The marauding Mongols were never even able to reach the region and, for a time, Svaneti became a cultural safe house.
This is why the finest Georgian churches, icons, and works of art can be found in Svaneti. The Svans protected them fiercely and a thief would get the death penalty.
It’s only since the mid-2000’s that Svaneti became accessible to tourists.
After the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991, some villages were completely abandoned and the area was feared as outlaw territory where bandits and criminal gangs took refuge.
Nowadays it’s completely safe to visit Svaneti. The Svans might only show their fierce nature if you would refuse their hospitality with the typical Georgian tradition of offering you a glass of home-made wine or chacha (a very strong spirit drink) and a large meal of the provincial cuisine (bread, cheese, stewed beef and more cheese).
Meet the Svans, brave highland warriors who practiced blood law.
Known as the bravest Georgians, the Svans were exceptionally fearless warriors, mountain people who preserved the oldest Georgian traditions, customs, folklore, and art with their own blood and sweat (no tears, as they were tough).
They were tough survivors who were able to withstand long harsh winters and defend themselves against the invasions of foreign empires and other Caucasian tribes. They’re not the type of people you want to get into a fight with!
The Svans were ruled by a king and a council of 300 elders, capable of fielding an army of 200,000 men. They have always been a pillar of the land of Georgia, sharing the fate of the country and distinguished by their boundless devotion to their motherland.
The Svans and its nobles played a special role in the history of Georgia, especially during the Golden Era (the reign of David the Builder and King Tamar during the 11th and 12th centuries AC).
They are people of honor and pride and they still have the tradition of making a vow on an Icon. If a Svan swears to God or a Saint and makes a vow, he/she would rather give his/her life than break the promise.
The Svans were also known for their blood feuds, the “Svanetian Vendetta”. These feuds were strictly regulated by the local rules which nobody could disobey.
The victim’s family was obliged to give the offender(s) some time to collect himself and decide his future actions. Only after 2 to 3 months, the family could meet the offender to ask if he felt guilty and if he was ready to leave the community.
If the offender refused to leave, there was no mercy and his punishment would be death. I’m mentioning “he” as women would never be a victim of a blood feud.
Before the actual revenge would take place, the ruler of the village or community would serve as a mediator between the parties. He would do all within his power to negotiate and convince the feuded families to reconcile. That’s why a blood feud could sometimes last 20 to 30 years.
The historical purpose of the Svan Towers
The Svans traditionally lived in tightly clustered mountain villages and each household was a fortress.
The villages were too scattered to be encircled with a protective wall so each individual house built a stone tower – called koshki – that offered protection to the family and their livestock during natural disasters, attacks, and blood feuds.
The Svan towers also served as shelters for the most valuable possessions of every family and were a metric for measuring the influence and wealth of the family. The higher the tower and the better view, the more powerful and wealthy the family was.
Nowadays these towers don’t really have a purpose anymore. Some remain open for tourists to visit and a local I spoke with, joked that the only use of the towers nowadays is for spying on the neighbors.
Svanuri, An endangered language
Because of their geographical isolation, the Svans have their own unwritten language called Svan, an ancient language that belongs to the Georgian (Kartveluri) language family, together with the Megruli and Lazuri languages.
The Svan language retained many archaic features of the ancient Georgian language, sounds, postpositions, verb forms and other language patterns that are now lost in modern Georgian.
Unfortunately, fewer people from the younger generation show interest in the archaic language that worries the older generation. That’s why UNESCO designated Svan as an endangered language.
will the wild heart of the Caucasus finally be tamed?
For a long time, the villages in Svaneti stayed preserved from today’s fast-changing world. The people were self-sufficient and lived in harmony with nature.
Some of the villages, like Ushguli – which is, by the way, one of the highest and most remote villages of Europe (2200m above sea level), were completely closed off from the rest of the world during the long and harsh winters.
The medieval and remote times of Svaneti are now slowly coming to an end. Svaneti has seen more changes in the last decade than in a whole millennium.
The rough and bumpy roads that link the villages of Svaneti are getting paved, even all the way to Ushguli. There is now even an airport terminal that offers daily flights from and to Tbilisi.
Guest houses and hyper-modern government buildings are popping up like weeds, especially in Mestia.
It’s quite ironic that the stone towers which were used to keep outsiders at a distance are now attracting tourists from all over the world.
While these changes might be unsettling for some, the Svans are hopeful. Years ago, the younger Svan generation had to leave their home in search of work in the big cities of Georgia.
Now that number of tourists is growing, the number of youngsters returning to the Svanetian highlands is growing as well, now that there are jobs and more opportunities for them. So maybe it isn’t such a bad thing that the wild heart of the Caucasus is getting tamed instead of becoming lost?
3. When is the best time to visit Svaneti Georgia
Svaneti is spectacular at any time of the year and can be visited all year round, depending on what you like to do there.
The most popular time to visit Svaneti is summer, between the months of June and September, as it’s the warmest time and ideal for camping and going on hikes. Due to its altitude, you should still bring some warm clothes as the nights in Mestia can be quite chilly, even in the month of August.
Spring (May/early June) is also a beautiful time as the trees are blooming and the alpine meadows are covered in flowers, just like Autumn (late September/October) when the color of the leaves are changing.
Spring and autumn would actually be the best time to visit if you don’t mind the gray weather at times, as it’s low season so you’ll be able to enjoy the lowest prices and have most of the sites for yourself.
You might not be able to go on multiple-day treks but both seasons are a good time to chill, enjoy the landscapes and the delicious amazing Svanetian cuisine, visit museums and get familiar with the daily life of the locals.
Svaneti is becoming a popular winter sports destination so if you want to go skiing or snowboarding, you should go between the months of December to March. And imagine how beautiful the Svan towers will look when they’re covered in snow!
Reading Tip: Skiing in Georgia: The Complete Guide to all the best ski resorts in Georgia
4. How to get to Svaneti (Mestia)
The road to Mestia is well-paved and accessible all year. Once in a while, the road can be blocked by a landslide but it’s rare and the Roads Department of Georgia reacts in a timely manner. You can always check the road conditions here.
4.1 How to get from Tbilisi to Mestia by plane
The fastest way to get from Tbilisi to Mestia is by plane (45 minutes). Flights leave from Natakhtari, a 20-minute drive from Tbilisi, and operate every Sunday, Monday, Wednesday and Friday.
Tickets can be booked 3 months in advance and it costs 90 Gel (about 30 USD) for a one-way ticket from Natakhtari (Tbilisi) to Mestia. You can book your tickets here. The plane is small so tickets sell quickly.
There are also flights available from Kutaisi and Batumi.
Keep in mind that the flight can be delayed or canceled due to weather conditions, so it’s always good to have a Plan B.
4.2 How to get from Tbilisi to Svaneti (Mestia) by minibus
You can travel by marshrutka (a minibus with up to 20 seats) from Tbilisi straight to Mestia.
The marshrutka from Tbilisi to Mestia leaves daily at 7 am from Samgori Bus Station and Station Square and costs 40 Gel per person.
The trip takes 8 to 10 hours so give it a full day as the road is long and tiring. The driver usually makes a few stops along the way, one on the Rikoti pass for snacks and a toilet break, one in Zugdidi to get more passengers if needed, and the last one between Zugdidi and Mestia.
4.3 How to get from Tbilisi to Mestia by train
You can also take the train from Tbilisi to Zugdidi and catch a marshrutka from there to Mestia.
The train departs from Tbilisi at 8.30 am and arrives in Zugdidi at 14.35. The travel time from Zugdidi to Mestia by mashrutka takes another 3,5 hours (see below 4.4 How to get from Zugdidi to Mestia).
There’s also a night train from Tbilisi to Zugdidi during the high season (summer).
You can check the train schedule and buy tickets online as the schedule tends to change during summer and winter times.
4.4 How to get from Zugdidi to Mestia
In the high season, there are multiple marshrutkas waiting for passengers at the train station in Zugdidi to drive to Mestia, so most likely you won’t have to go to the bus station.
If you are traveling during the winter months, head to the only Svan tower in Zugdidi, which is visible from nearly every spot in the town. There you will find a marshrutka to Mestia which, according to the driver, starts getting filled from 10 am and leaves at about 12.00.
During summer there’s also a marshrutka from Zugdidi to Mestia at 4 pm.
It takes 3.30 hours to get from Zugdidi to Mestia by minibus and a ticket costs 25 Gel.
Tip : The exact time of the departure can vary depending on the demand\number of passengers. And if there aren’t enough people, the car won’t go. This is why it is really important to be in touch with a driver. Mevludi Margvelani (+995 599228550) is one of the drivers and speaks Georgian and Russian. He’s happy to answer your questions regarding traveling to Mestia from Zugdidi.
If you have time and can afford a one-night stay in Zugdidi, then half a day is just enough to:
- explore Dadiani palace, the only royal palace preserved in Georgia,
- pay a visit to Zugdidi Botanical Garden and pamper yourself with one of the richest and most delicious Megrelian cuisines
- walk around the local bazaar and see the beautiful and photogenic faces of the locals.
4.5 How to get from Kutaisi to Mestia
Marshrutkas from Kutaisi to Mestia leave daily at 8 am from the bus stop next to the McDonalds. A ticket costs 30 Gel and it takes around 5 hours to get from Kutaisi to Mestia.
4.6 How to get from Batumi to Mestia
There are direct marshrutkas from the bus station in Batumi to Mestia from June to mid or late September. They leave daily at 9 am and a ticket costs 35 Gel. The journey takes around 6 hours.
During the low season, you’ll first have to travel from the bus station in Batumi to Zugdidi and catch the marshrutka to Mestia from there (see above 4.4 How to get from Zugdidi to Mestia).
The Batumi-Zugdidi marshrutkas leave from 9 am to 6 pm, potentially every hour but the frequency depends on the number of passengers. A ticket from Batumi to Zugdidi costs 15 Gel and the journey takes around 2.30 hours.
5. How to get from Svaneti (Mestia) to Tbilisi, Kutaisi and Zugdidi
Mestia has its own little central bus station (it’s more of a bus stop) from where you can take a mashrutka to Tbilisi, Kutaisi or Zugdidi.
Tickets can be bought at the ticket office near the bus stop:
- From Mestia to Tbilisi: 8.00 am – 40 Gel
- From Mestia to Kutaisi: 8.00 am – 30 Gel
- From Mestia to Zugdidi: 8.00 am – 25 Gel
6. Visit Svaneti Georgia: a few things to know before you go
6.1 Is Svaneti safe?
While there used to be a time when traveling to Svaneti was dangerous for outsiders, it is nowadays very safe to visit Svaneti!
The Svan people are warm, kind, and hospitable. They are mountain people who survived living in harsh conditions. Some can be more conservative than f.eg. the people living in Tbilisi, but this is how they preserved their unique culture and traditions for centuries.
Did you know that some of the folk songs they still sing date back 5000 years? They have huge respect for their customs and traditions.
The Svan, and Georgians in general, have the tendency to offer you more than what you’re asking. It’s a local custom, and it doesn’t mean you can’t say no. Some foreigners find it hard to say no to more hospitality, more food, and especially more drinks… Don’t feel awkward to kindly refuse another refill.
Reading Tip: Oh Georgia, sweet mother of wine!
You also don’t have to worry about thieves or walking the streets alone at night.
The only thing I would urge you to be careful about is when you want to go hiking alone in the mountains. Mountainous areas are treacherous and you shouldn’t wander off by yourself. Look for a hiking buddy at your guesthouse or hotel and always let your host know about your plans!
6.2 In case of emergency
Mestia has its own police station and a small but modern hospital. In case of emergency, you can call 122, it’s the Georgian version of 911. Choose the English language and the operator will give you further assistance.
There are also a couple of pharmacies in Mestia that are usually open between 9 am and 9 pm (working hours depend on the season).
Reading Tip: What is the best budget-friendly travel insurance for backpackers? The 3 Best Travel Insurance Companies compared
6.3 Internet in Svaneti
The internet coverage is surprisingly good in Svaneti. Free Wi-fi is offered in hotels and guesthouses but it can be slow at times.
If you need internet when visiting Svaneti, I recommend purchasing a Georgian sim card beforehand. You can buy a sim card at the airport on arrival. Magti and Geocel (Silknet) have the best coverage.
Read more about buying a sim card and other practical travel tips for Georgia in 19 useful things to know before traveling to Georgia
6.4 Organizing money in Svaneti
There are several ATMs on Seti Square in Mestia where you can withdraw money. You can also exchange money at the Liberty bank branch on Tamar Mepe Street.
You can pay by card at bigger restaurants and hotels, but if their POS terminal is broken, Mestia is too far away from every other city to be quickly replaced.
It’s in general highly recommended to bring cash when traveling to Svaneti, especially when visiting the small villages where there are no banks or ATMs.
6.5 Gas stations in Svaneti
If you’re renting a car in Georgia or traveling with your own vehicle, there is a gas station in Mestia selling petrol and Diesel. The quality of the fuel isn’t the best but it will get your vehicle moving.
7. Top Things to do in Svaneti
7.1 5 Great hikes and treks in Svaneti
There are a large number of hiking and trekking options available in Svaneti. There are plenty of day hikes but also multiple-day treks up to 10 days long.
1) Mestia to Ushguli Trek
The hike from Mestia to Ushguli is the most famous trek and it’s a relatively easy route that you can cover in 2 to 4 days. The trail is about 60 km long with a minimum elevation of 1411 meters and a maximum elevation of 2737 meters.
You can either camp or stay in guesthouses on the way. Typically, the village of Jabeshi is the first stop, and the next day people aim to get from Jabeshi to Adishi. The third stop would be Iprali village in the Kala community and the last stop is Ushguli, from where you can hike to Shkhara glacier.
The best time for hiking from Mestia to Ushguli is from the beginning of June till late October.
Read the full description and itinerary of this hike here.
2) Day hike from Mestia to the Koruldi Lakes
The hike to the Koruldi lakes from Mestia and back takes around 7 hours and covers a 20 km distance. The trail is moderate, although the first part can be challenging for some. The elevation change is 1400m up and down.
The lakes themselves are pretty tiny and can get even smaller during a hot summer, but the landscapes and views won’t leave you disappointed.
Most of the distance can also be covered by car. Renting a car/driver can cost anything between 80 to 150 Gel. You can always negotiate on price.
Read a full description of the trail to the Koruldi Lakes here.
3) HALF-DAY HIKE FROM MESTIA TO CHALAADI GLACIER
The Chalaadi Glacier is the easiest glacier to visit in Svaneti. You can start the hike to Chalaadi Glacier from Mestia or cover the first part of the route – which is along a dusty road – by car/ taxi/hitchhiking.
If you start hiking from Mestia, you’ll need about 6 hours to get to the glacier and back. If you’re covering the first part by car and start the trail at the hanging bridge, you’ll need about 3 hours for a round-trip.
The trail is easy and indicated on maps.me. Be careful at the glacier as there might be falling rocks that have already injured (and killed) hikers in the past.
4) Day hike from Mazeri to Shdugra Waterfall
The Shdugra waterfall, located 20 km from Mestia at the end of the Shikhra valley in the Becho community, is a wonderful destination for a day hike.
The trail starts in the Shikhra valley at the Travelers Café. It’s best to arrange a taxi from Mestia to the village of Mazeri to get to the trailhead.
The distance of this hike is 7km one-way with a minimum elevation of 1600 meters and a maximum elevation of 2200 meters. You can find the trail on Maps.me.
If you are a hardcore hiker, you can carry on from the Shdugra waterfall to the Ushba glacier, which is one of the hardest treks in Svaneti. A steep 500 meters elevation on a very rocky trail offers amazing views of the Ushba, Shkhelda, Mazeri and Svaneti mountain range.
For your own safety, please consider this trail only in good weather conditions. Read more about this trek here.
5) Day hike from Ushguli to Shkhara Glacier
The Shkhara Glacier is a popular and easy day hike that starts in Ushguli village. It takes about 5 hours to hike to the glacier and back with a minimum elevation of 2122 meters and a maximum elevation of 2430 meters.
The majority of the trail is a dirt road but the views of the glacier and surrounding landscapes are worth it!
You can find the map and a detailed description of the hike here.
6) other hiking and trekking options in Svaneti
There are of course many more beautiful day hikes and multiple-day treks in Svaneti. A great resource for hiking in Svaneti – and hiking in Georgia in general – is Caucasus Trekking. Here’s his detailed overview of all the hikes and treks in Svaneti.
You can also opt for a guided multiple-day trekking tour in Svaneti. The following trekking tours include the best hikes and treks in Svaneti:
Reading Tip: 7 beautiful off-the-beaten-path hikes in Georgia
7.2 7 Best things to do in Mestia
Mestia is a townlet and the administrative center of Svaneti.
It consists of an old part where you’ll find the famous Svan towers and 4 museums and a modern center with a theater, small cute cafes and restaurants, a small lovely park next to the noteworthy police station, small shops, pharmacies and the tourist information center where you can buy maps of the region.
1)Walk around Mestia
It’s a cliché but the best way to visit Mestia is just to walk around the townlet. It’s small so you can easily get everywhere on foot. During the two times I visited Mestia, I always enjoyed walking on the cobbled streets in the old part of the townlet.
This is where you’ll be able to visit the ancient houses with the Svan towers and imagine how the people used to live here not so long ago. Just be aware that the hills in the village are quite steep to hike up.
I’d also recommend walking around the townlet at night to admire the illuminated Svan towers.
2) Visit the MArghiani House Museum
The Marghiani House Museum in Lanchvali Street is run by Svetlana and Murad Marghiani. It’s a Svan tower house that belongs to the family and has preserved the environment in which the Svans used to live for many centuries until the 1950s.
You can climb to the top of the tower (be careful on the dodgy wooden stairs) and see spectacular views over Mestia.
You can visit the museum from Tuesday to Sunday (closed on Monday) from 10 am until 6 pm. It’s a family-run museum so in case it’s closed, you can call the host (+991579805599). The entrance fee is 10 Gel.
3) Learn more about Svaneti in the Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography
This museum was founded in 1939 and renewed in 2013. It has 6 permanent exposition halls.
Some halls are dedicated to Christian treasures, where visitors have the opportunity to see IX-XVIII century masterpieces of world importance such as the Icon of the Forty Sebastian Martyrs, the Embroidered Byzantine Icon, the Venetian Cross, a jug donated by Queen Tamar, the earliest remaining sample of the illustrated manuscript of the Adishi Gospels (897), etc.
The last exhibition hall in the museum is dedicated to the exponents of Georgian Ethnography.
The Svaneti Museum is op from Tuesday to Sunday, from 10 am to 6 pm and the entrance fee is 10 Gel.
4) Visit the Mikheil Khergiani Home Museum
This home museum is dedicated to the legendary Georgian alpinist Mikheil Khergiani (1932-1969).
Mikhail climbed numerous peaks in the mountains of the Caucasus, Pamir, Tien-Shan, and the Alps where he died at the age of 39.
You can visit the museum daily, except on Mondays, from 10 am to 6 pm. The entrance fee is 3 Gel.
5) Watch The Movie Dede at Dede Pub and Cinema
Mestia has one cinema and it plays one movie: Dede. This award-winning movie is set in the mountains of Svaneti during the early 90s and it tells the story of a woman who struggles with the local traditions and her search for happiness.
Mariam Khatchvani, the film director and screenwriter, was born and raised in Ushguli. Almost all the roles are played by local people who didn’t have previous acting experience. It’s a must-watch!
6) Enjoy the panoramic view on the observation deck near Mestia Cross
When you arrive in Mestia, you might spot the small cross high up the hill overlooking the townlet. There’s an observation deck near this cross that gives you a fantastic panoramic view of Mestia and the surrounding area.
However, getting to this observation deck isn’t a walk in the park. The hike up is steep (ascending 700 meters over a distance of 1,4 km…) and the trail isn’t the most pleasant one. But once you’re up there, the views make the effort worth it!
If you still have energy left, you can continue hiking toward the Koruldi lakes (see 6.1 Best day hikes in Svaneti).
You can also skip the hiking part and get to the cross and observation deck if you have a car or by taxi.
7)Take the cable car to Hatsvali
Hatsvali is becoming a popular ski resort in winter but it’s also a beautiful place to visit during spring, summer, and autumn.
You can take the chair lift, which is open all year round, to the observation deck at Hatsvali and have a coffee or a meal at restaurant Zuruldi – the highest restaurant in Georgia at 2340 meters altitude – while enjoying the panoramic views. On a clear day, you even get to see Mount Ushba.
You can hike (about 15 minutes), drive, or take a taxi from Mestia to the lower station of the cable car. The cable car consists of 2 lifts and it costs 15 Gel to get all the way to the top. Once you’re at the top, you can hike to the Zuruldi Ridge (read the trail description here).
2022 Update: When I was in Mestia in May 2022, the cable car was closed for construction. There is currently no info on when it will open again.
7.3 5 Best things to do in Ushguli Village
Ushguli is a remote community that consists of four small villages tucked away in the Caucasus mountains. It’s famous for its Svan towers, cobbled streets and beautiful landscapes and, in my opinion, one of the highlights of Svaneti.
There used to be 300 Svan towers in Ushguli but nowadays only 30 remain fully intact. This is still the highest concentration of towers in the region.
Ushguli used to be the highest continuously inhabited settlement in Europe but Bochorna in Tusheti took this title in 2014.
How to get from Mestia to UShguli
There is no public transport within Svaneti and locals rely heavily on their private cars to get around.
There is only 1 marshrutka between Mestia and Ushguli that operates once a week and even that one is not certain, it always depends on the road conditions, especially in winter.
So unless you travel by car, whether a rental one or your own, you will have to book your transportation with a local driver.
Also, keep in mind that you need a 4×4 to get from Mestia to Ushguli. The road is mainly paved except for the last 10 kilometers. I tried to get there in May 2022 with a normal car and got stuck. So as long as the road isn’t been fully paved yet, you’ll need a 4×4 vehicle to get to Ushguli.
You can also hike from Mestia to Ushguli as mentioned above in 6.1 Best hikes in Svaneti.
Almost every family in Mestia has a 4×4 car and offers transportation. The best way is to talk to your host at the hotel or guesthouse, as they usually offer the service too.
The average price for transport with a 4×4 Delica is 250 Gel (about 85 USD) and the car accommodates 4 to 6 people.
If you want to explore other villages such as Adishi on the way to Ushguli, it will be an extra 20 to 40 USD, depending on the location.
If you travel alone, try to find other travelers to share the ride with. Solo travelers or couples are often looking for more people to fill the car so be open to asking around as someone might be looking for you too.
Another option is to book a guided tour to Ushguli. The advantage of booking such tour is that transportation is included and you get to visit all the places of interest in and around Ushguli with a knowledgeable guide who’ll share lots of interesting info and stories.
1) Visit the Love Tower near Kala, on the way from Mestia to Ushguli
To be honest, the first time I saw this tower, I didn’t really know what the fuss was about. I saw groups of tourists stopping at an old tower near the river but it wasn’t such a spectacular sight. Only afterward did I learn why this tower is so popular.
I have heard many different versions of this legend, but all of them have this in common:
A young Svan woman falls in love with a young man. In some legends, the man goes missing, in other legends, the man dies tragically. The woman leaves her house and resides near the river, at the place where she and her lover used to meet.
The father or brother (depending on the legend) of the woman builds the tower for her there and the woman spends the rest of her life inside the tower, reminiscing about her lost love (in the legends where he died) or hoping to see her lover back one day.
2) Walk around Ushguli
The highlight of visiting Ushguli would definitely be walking around the villages. While the majority of the houses are being converted into homestays and guesthouses, you’ll still get an impression of the remote lifestyle in this region, even more so than in Mestia.
Some villagers will pass you on horseback while pigs, cows and dogs walk alongside you on the cobbled streets.
The villages aren’t that big so if you’re visiting Ushguli on a day trip from Mestia, you’ll only need a couple of hours to walk around and get a real sense of the place.
3)Visit the ethnographic museum
Ushguli’s ethnographic museum is located in a 12th-century house, one of the oldest standing in Ushguli, and it displays items and devices from the past centuries. A visit to this museum will help you imagine and understand what life in Ushguli used to be like.
The owner of the house is an archaeologist who was born there and he’ll guide you around the museum, explaining the interesting history of Ushguli.
4) Visit Lamaria Church
The Lamaria Church, also known as the Ushguli Church of the Mother of God, is one of the most important and highly cultural-historical monuments of Svaneti.
Lamaria, built around the 9th or 10th century, is dedicated to the Dormition of Mother Mary. The church is still functional and houses a collection of various historical church items.
5) Hike up to Tamar’s Castle
According to legends, King Tamar- the first female king of Georgia – used to be so fond of Svaneti that she built a summer residence in Ushguli in the form of a castle (she was a king after all…).
There’s not much left of this castle except for a lonely ruined tower standing on a hill about 200 meters above Ushguli. It’s a nice and relatively easy walk to get up there (4 km roundtrip, total climb of 230 meters) and when you see the nice panoramic view, you’ll understand why King Tamar wanted to build her castle there.
Reading Tip: Learn more about the important role King Tamar played in Georgian history in Vardzia, Georgia’s ancient cave city.
7.4 4 More things to do in Svaneti
1) Go Paragliding in Svaneti
Svaneti is a beautiful region to go on a paragliding adventure! Imagine how it will feel to fly like a bird over the stunning Caucasian mountains!
You can book a duo flight with one of the instructors at Highlander Travel. If you’re an experienced pilot, you can book a trip with XC Georgia.
2) Go on a horseriding trip in Svaneti
While the region is more popular for trekking, it’s also possible to visit the highlights in Svaneti on horseback.
Svaneti Spirit offers day trips and multi-day horseriding tours from Svaneti to several beautiful locations. You can check out the options and horse riding itineraries here.
3)visit the small villages in Svaneti
Mestia and Ushguli are the most popular places to visit in Svaneti but if you want to go off the beaten path and get a more authentic experience, you can visit the other villages in Upper Svaneti, like Adishi, Iprari, Tsvirmi, Leli, Mazeri, etc.
If you have your own car or a rental one (4×4), you can easily visit these villages independently. You can also hire a car with driver for the day at one of the transport companies in Mestia (or ask at your guesthouse/ hotel for options).
4) Skiing in Svaneti
Svaneti has two ski resorts but, in its current state, skiing in Svaneti is better suited for intermediate to expert skiers, as decent English-speaking instructors are hard to find and beginners’ areas are not well developed.
The Hatsvali Ski Resort is about 8 km from Mestia and it’s pretty easy to drive up or take a taxi in the center of Mestia to the ski lifts.
Hatsvali has 5 ski tracks and the overall length is 7 km. The longest descent is 3 km. There are different kinds of ski tracks: from intermediate to advanced, professional skiers and extremists who will be able to get experience on the steep slopes in the woods.
Hatsvali Ski Resort sometimes sets up colorful lights at night, offering the opportunity to go night skiing. The area is covered with pine forest, decreasing the chances of avalanches and making the environment the safest and best place for freeriding.
Tetnuldi Ski Resort in Svaneti is the second largest ski resort in Georgia, after Gudauri. The maximum elevation of ski tracks is 3165 meters, and the minimum elevation is 2260 meters. Tetnuldi is about 15 km away from Mestia.
The length of the Tetnuldi ski tracks is the longest in the South Caucasus – 9,5 km – and it has the biggest vertical drop – 1,7 km. The overall length of ski tracks is 30 km. Tetnuldi ski resort has 4 ski lifts. The development of ski tracks and ski lifts is a continuous process.
The winter season is from December to April and the best time for skiing is in January and February. Tetnuldi stands out from other ski resorts because it has the longest winter season in Georgia.
Here’s an overview of the prices for skiing in Svaneti.
Aside from skiing and snowboarding, Tetnuldi also offers other kinds of winter activities such as paragliding, horse riding, heli-skiing, and ski touring.
Reading Tip: A guide to skiing in Georgia with an overview of the best ski resorts in the country
8. Svaneti Tours
You might find it easier to visit Svaneti as part of an (adventure) tour. Lots of local travel companies organize multi-day tours to Svaneti. You’ll mainly find them in Tbilisi, Kutaisi and Batumi.
You can go to the local office and see what tours they offer or you could search online for good tour deals.
Below I listed 3 interesting tours to Svaneti, organized by local travel companies, that are worth checking out:
9. Where to stay in Svaneti
9.1 Where to stay in Mestia
There are nowadays many guesthouses and hotels in Mestia.
The price per room in a guesthouse starts from 9 USD and goes up to 20 to 25USD. Some guesthouses serve breakfast and/or dinner for an additional $5 to $10 per person.
If guesthouses are not your cup of tea, you can find budget hotels for 30$ per night and luxurious hotels for around $ 80 to120$ a night.
If you travel with a group of friends or are planning a romantic getaway, you can rent an entire chalet in the mountains near Mestia. Starting from $90 per night you can get a cozy and comfortable hut just a couple of kilometers away from Mestia.
Here are my recommendations:
best guesthouses in Mestia (budget):
Best hotels in Mestia (from mid-range to high-end):
Best chalets and cabins in Mestia (from mid-range to high-end):
9.2 Where to stay in Ushguli
There are nowadays also many homestays and guesthouses in Ushguli. You can book a room online or arrive, wander around and inquire about prices and availability.
Prices start from $10 per person per night and most guesthouses will offer breakfast and dinner at an additional price.
Here are my top 3 recommendations for homestays and guesthouses in Ushguli:
If you prefer to stay in a chalet, you can check out the prices and availability of Ushguli Cabins.
10. What and where to eat in Svaneti
10.1 Top dishes to try in Svaneti
Svaneti doesn’t only have a unique history and culture, it also has a unique and outstanding cuisine! Unfortunately, many traditional Svanetian dishes are getting lost.
Here are some known Svanetian dishes that you can find all around Georgia:
- Kubdari: bread filled with beef, seasoned with salt, pepper and local herbs
- Chvishtari : cornbread with cheese
- Tashmidjabi: mashed potato with cheese
The following dishes are some rare and outstanding examples of the Svanetian cuisine that you can hardly find anywhere but in Svaneti:
- Ziskhora: blood sausage made of pork and stuffed with onions, garlic, and traditional spices. This dish was often served as food for the middle class or hard-working people as the better parts of the pig were kept for the rich and wealthy.
- Petvraali (Petvi in Georgian): millet, the main ingredient of this dish, was widespread in Svaneti. Mixed with warm milk, freshly-made cheese, dough, and yeast and baked in the oven, this dish was very nutritious and beneficial for the health.
- Narchvi: this Svanetian cheese has been awarded the UNESCO cultural heritage status. There are only a few villages left in upper Svaneti where this rare cheese is still being made. The cheese is pressed and left in special barrels for at least 15 days and sometimes up to several months.
- Svanetian salt: salt mixed with local endemic herbs used for seasoning salads. This salt can be used with basically any dish to which you’d add salt. Buy some Svanetian salt from the locals when you’re in Svaneti!
Reading Tip: The 10 best dishes from the Georgian Cuisine that you absolutely have to try!
10.2 The best restaurants in Mestia
There are several restaurants and cafes in Mestia:
- Cafe Laila
This cute cafe is located across from the main park (Seti) in the center of Mestia. It’s usually crowded during high season but the quality of food and service is excellent.
The only downside is that if it’s too busy, it can get a little noisy, so don’t expect a quiet romantic dinner but rather a party with Georgian music and dances. They often make a bonfire in the evening (during summer) and let the guests prepare their own barbeque.
- Chalet Mestia Restaurant
This restaurant, located on the main road near the police station, has a really nice atmosphere and offers typical Svan soups and dishes.
- Cafe Panorama
Cafe Panorama, located in the center of Mestia, offers a terrace with a view of the Svan Towers. It’s a great place to sit, relax and enjoy the view and Georgian cuisine.
- Cafe Ushba
This cafe is good if you’re on a budget. It’s the least “luxurious” among those I’ve mentioned above, but the food is delicious.
- Turkish Restaurant Ritur Georgia
It might not be your first choice, to eat Turkish food while in Georgia. During my second visit to Mestia, I was so hungry and the garden of this restaurant, located near Cinema Dede, looked so appealing that I went in and enjoyed a typical Turkish meal. The owners of the restaurant were incredibly sweet and the food was so good that I went back the day after.
- However, the best place for a delicious Georgian meal in Mestia (and in all of Svaneti) is at your guesthouse (if you’re staying in one) where your host will cook and serve you a traditional homemade meal!
I hope you’ve enjoyed reading this guide to Svaneti and I wish you a lovely time in one of my favorite regions in Georgia!
If you’d have more questions, please feel free to contact me or ask your question in the comments below as it might help other travelers too! You’re also always welcome to share your experiences and recommendations in the comments below!
More Georgia Travel resources
- Guide to Tbilisi, Georgia’s capital city
- Visit the 15 most beautiful and unique places in Georgia
- Plan your trip with these 3 awesome Georgia travel itineraries
- Discover the Chronicle of Georgia, Tbilisi’s hidden gem
- Guide to Batumi, Georgia’s most quirky beach city
- Hiking in Georgia: 7 beautiful off-the-beaten path hikes
- Visiting ghosts of the past in Chiatura, the cable car city of Georgia
- Visit Katskhi Pillar, the most incredible cliff church in the world
- Travel Guide to Vardzia, the ancient cave city of Georgia
- Visit Svaneti, the wild heart of Georgia
- Visit Tusheti, Georgia’s most remote region
- Visit these 10 beautiful historical places in Georgia
- Everything you need to know about skiing in Georgia
- 10 Georgian dishes you absolutely have to try
- Georgia, motherland of wine
- From Past to Present, a guide to Georgian Tea
Related posts
How to visit Tusheti National Park in 2024, Georgia’s most beautiful and remote region
Georgia Itinerary – 3 Great Travel Itineraries to see the best of Georgia (country) in 2024
How to get to the Chronicles of Georgia in Tbilisi
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Thank you very much for this article. It helped a lot planning the trip in the Svan region.
One question about the food, especially the cheese. Are they pasteurized? In fact I will be in my second trimester when I travel so I should avoid food like raw meat and unpasteurized dairy product. It would be very helpful if you have some insight on that part.
Thank you!
Hi Yingzhi, firstly, congratulations with your pregnancy!
Most of the fresh cheese are pasteurized but it will be good to double-check when you’re there.
Have a great trip!
Hi, thanks for your write up. Just one thing I was confused about. The emergency number should be 112, not 022? Just thought thats an important thing to have correct.
Hi Chloe, thanks so much for noticing my typo!! So sorry about that; changing it right now!
Hi, i saw your YouTube About the glacier you visited with the Israelian family.
I want to visit iT to.
Do you remeber the name of the glacier and how to het there?
Thanks
Neta
Hi Neta, the name of the glacier is Chaladi Glacier.
Here’s a great article on how to hike to this glacier: https://www.caucasus-trekking.com/treks/chalaadi
Enjoy your travels in Svaneti!
Nice write up! It is a gorgeous region but seriously, like you say, it is a real tourist trap.
Some of the villages between Ushguly and Mestia have now terrace-bars with super loud music and sooooo many backpackers, like there was no place to sit. It was a lot of fun to get tipsy in the mountains but this is not what people come for when y0u visit a traditional village.
In our guest house, there were more than 12 guests and most guest houses were actually full. The owners didn’t really care about the guests but just the money… They got spoiled too quickly, much more than anywhere else I have been to. As per the photos, I can see that you came out of season, right? That’s what I would recommend to people, to come in June or September. We also took an alternative route and, for the first 2 days, we barely saw anyone.
We were there indeed during low season. I’ve heard that it’s becoming so touristic there now, very sad to hear 🙁
There are a lot of other traditional villages in Svaneti, less known than Ushguli so if you have the means to go off-the-beaten-path, you’ll probably have a better experience there.
Yeah, I feel very double about the topic – the growing tourism is helping the economy but it’s also destroying the authenticity of the hospitality and the place. I just don’t understand why backpackers would go there to get drunk…
So nice article. I really relate of what you both say. I’m from the dolomites, the italian parts. My Country is living from tourism. One the one side tourism is important, on the other it can be really too much. We have Valleys with so many tourists, that I can feel anymore the Soul of this place and of this People. Everybody is working for tourists and for Money and it becames a trap. That hurts. In my experience the autenticity of the local People can only be preseverd when the locals have a good comunity life and the tourists are not more than the locals. I will come to Georgia and to Svaneti to find this. You have any Suggestion where to go and to stay?
Hi Priska, I think you can definitely relate to what’s happening in Svaneti. The growing popularity of the place is economically seen very good for the locals but at the same time, Svaneti is losing its magic. However, most people go to Mestia and Ushguli and there are still many little villages in Svaneti that aren’t so popular among tourists (yet). If you have your own car, you can easily reach them on your own. You can also choose to hike less popular treks in the mountains (this is a brilliant website for it: https://www.caucasus-trekking.com/). Hope this helps and feel free to let me know if you have more questions!
If you like to stay in Mestia, I can recommend Jilieta (budget hostel) or Bapsha Guesthouse. Wishing you all the best!!
…when I say bump, I don’t mean literally
Hahaha!!!
Beautiful photos Cynthia. Hopefully we’ll bump into you on the road somewhere and you can have a lift in Burt!
Thank you Katie! It would be great to get a ride with you! 🙂
Sounds like you had super fun there. Love the beautiful landscapes out there. We always love mountains especially the fresh air with nature all round makes it worthwhile.
The nature in this region is very pristine. If you love mountains, you will love hiking in the Caucasus!!!
Wow – what a place! The landscapes are incredible.It’s a tough one because your post has made me want to go but as you said, you don’t want to contribute to the ruination of a place. Hopefully they will be able to keep a balance as the tourist industry develops there.
It’s definitely worthwhile to visit Svaneti! We also really hope that they can find a balance. Economically it would do the region and the country well but we hope they can keep their authenticity in the midst of it all!
Love this. The landscapes are insane…with the snow capped mountains and unbelievable weather it looks like! I love how you added those huge friendly dogs. Nice to see a place where they aren’t emaciated and covered in dirt!
Thanks Tatum! Most dogs live in the streets but the people feed them and look after them. It’s indeed really nice to see that! The landscapes really took our breath away. If you love mountains and nature, you would love Svaneti (and Georgia)!
Very interesting post – I didn’t know about the bad-ass Svans and their history. I would definitely consider visiting this untamed region but, hopefully, the remaining residents will find a balance between keeping their traditions alive while adapting to more modern conveniences (such as tourism). The scenery is beautiful!
Thank you Lydia. We also hope they will find a balance. The tourism would do their financial situation well but we really hope the area will keep it’s authenticity!
I must admit that caucasus so far has not really been a place for us to seriously think about to travel to, but your post somehow really changed that.
Your pics are absolutely great and give somehow a very good understanding of these places and I like the raw peacefulness in them. What really fascinates me here is the pureness of the place, something untouched. We had something similar in Iceland, even though its already super touristic. But this here seems to be very different, very special. Thank you for this inspiration, glad to have stumbled upon this. Cheers Hendrik
Thank you so much for your kind words Hendrik!
This is a very special place indeed, there is something really special about the energy here. We hope that the tourism won’t spoil it, that Svaneti can keep its unique identity. We’ve never been to Iceland but we would love to go there one day! Can you see the effects of tourism there? I would definitely recommend a visit to the Caucasus, there are still many areas in this mountain range that we haven’t discovered yet. I hope you’ll come this way one day, you won’t be disappointed!
Love how you are exploring places where languages were only spoken and not written. I feel like in places like these. History might never be know other than for what remains. Thanks for documenting and expressing what you saw in a language understood by many! Nice work on your Youtube channel!
Thank you!!
We love exploring and discovering areas like this. We hope that Svans will and can keep their unique language and culture. Their history is very fascinating, so different from any other place.
It’s great that you included so many pics. The wild wild west of Georgia. That’s a very interesting looking toilet!
It was a very interesting toilet to use as well 😉
what an amazing article, amazing pictures and, above all an amazing story. The caucasus is so high on my list really. They are offering very cheap flights to Georgia at the moment and it’s been itching in my fingers since a year. but your pictures wow…i so wanna go!
Hi Norman,
Thank you for your kind words! It’s a pleasure to inspire you to go and visit Georgia. It’s a real beautiful and interesting country. Svaneti is just a little part of this, there are so many stunning areas to discover and if you’re a wine-lover, you’ll definitely have a blast here 🙂 When would you like to travel to Georgia?
I dunno. I don’t seem to find the time to do anything. Probbaly next autumn.