In April 2024, Maison Margiela found its way back to Manila. At Hommes et Femme, situated at 8 Rockwell in Makati City, patrons and style aficionados can immerse themselves in the latest offerings from the esteemed French luxury house. The curated selection boasts a diverse range of apparel, featuring trompe l’oeil tote bags and the beloved Tabi shoes in various silhouettes.
Table of Contents:
- Who is Martin Margiela?
- Martin Margiela's anonymity
- Maison Margiela's Rise and Evolution
- Maison Margiela's Design Ethos and Signature Style
- Maison Margiela's Iconic Pieces to Shop
- Celebrities in Maison Margiela
- Where to Shop Maison Margiela in the Philippines
LOOK: Maison Margiela Is Now in Manila
If you’re eager to learn more about the cult favorite fashion brand, read on to discover its rich heritage, signature styles, as well as the most iconic pieces to shop from their recent collections.
Who Is Martin Margiela?
Martin Margiela was born in 1957 in Genk, Belgium. A Paris-based courtier and artisanal designer, he first graduated from the esteemed Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 1979. Notably, his formative years in university intersected with those of celebrated designers like Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester.
After completing his degree, he ventured to Milan to do freelance work as a fashion designer. During this early period in his career, his work was already reflective of his avant-garde approach to design. For instance, he would reimagine a classic garment’s structure, and breathe it new life by purposefully exposing its seams and inner linings.
After spending five years as a freelance designer in Milan, Martin flew to Paris and began to make his mark in the fashion scene. There, he served as a personal assistant to Jean Paul Gaultier from 1984 to 1987.
In 1988, Martin—in collaboration with his business partner and creative confidante Jenny Meirens—established Maison Margiela in Paris. Beginning from a modest Parisian apartment, they later expanded to unveil their first store in an unassuming white space in the French capital, as well as a small studio at 12 Leopoldstraat in Antwerp, Belgium. Together, their partnership birthed a brand that defied traditional norms, setting the stage for a sartorial revolution in the decades thereafter.
His eponymous label's inaugural Spring/Summer 1989 womenswear collection marked the debut of Margiela's distinctive aesthetic, characterized by bold colors and avant-garde designs. Notably, it was in this collection that the now-cult favorite Tabi boot first made an appearance, where runway models dipped its soles in red paint, leaving split-toe footprints all over the catwalk.
On Martin Margiela's anonymity
Not much is known about Martin's personal life, which was due to his conscious avoidance of any media attention. As a matter of fact, this deliberate anonymity was central to his philosophy, a genuine effort to direct all attention to the artistry of his creations. Despite achieving widespread acclaim, Martin turned away interviews and official portraitures of any sort. On the few occasions that the maison entertained the press, all inquiries were directed to his design team over fax. His reclusive stance earned him the title of "fashion's invisible man" by The New York Times in 2008.
The Rise and Evolution of Maison Margiela: A Brief Timeline
Maison Margiela's evolution traverses through haute couture-inspired artisanal collections and ready-to-wear lines.
In 1998, Maison Margiela introduced its first menswear collection named Line 10. This debut showcased the now-iconic white labels, each featuring numbers ranging from zero to 23. These numbers act as reference codes, indicating the specific product line and collection to which each item belongs.
In 2000, the French luxury house unveiled a memorable ready-to-wear collection–Fall 2000’s Oversized Collection. This daring exploration of exaggerated proportions and avant-garde techniques captured the fashion world’s attention. Each garment, molded for an Italian size 78, retained its monumental scale, effectively challenging traditional notions of fit and form. Critics may have found the setting "disturbing," but Margiela's blown-out proportions achieved a new sculptural elegance that resonated with countless style aficionados.
In 2002, Maison Margiela underwent a significant transition with its acquisition by the OTB Group, a multinational luxury goods company that holds brands such as Jil Sander, Diesel, Marni, Viktor&Rolf, and Amiri. This partnership expanded the brand's global reach, all while preserving its artistic integrity and commitment to innovation.
March 2006 marked another milestone for Maison Margiela, as it presented a seminal Fall ready-to-wear collection that epitomized the brand's avant-garde ethos. Perfectly tailored trouser suits crafted from seventies upholstery fabrics and unconventional materials like car seat belts showcased Margiela's penchant for reinvention and subversion. The collection's avant-garde techniques, including patchwork tops crafted from vintage leather gloves and jewelry made of colored ice, pushed the boundaries of traditional craftsmanship.
In May 2006, Maison Martin Margiela debuted its first haute couture collection in Paris, further cementing its status as a pioneering force in the fashion industry. Invited by the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, the governing body of the French fashion industry, the maison's foray into haute couture underscored the brand's enduring legacy of innovation and creativity.
In 2009, Martin Margiela departed as the brand’s creative director for undisclosed reasons. The maison remained without a creative director until 2014 when John Galliano assumed the role, bringing his storied expertise from his time at Christian Dior and Givenchy to Maison Margiela.
Maison Margiela's Design Ethos and Signature Style
At the heart of Maison Margiela lies a design ethos that challenges conventions and redefines the boundaries of fashion. The brand's approach transcends mere garments, embodying a philosophy that celebrates experimentation, innovation, and introspection.
Central to the Margiela aesthetic is the concept of deconstruction—a technique that involves dismantling and reassembling garments in unconventional ways. This sartorial alchemy transforms mundane materials into wearable works of art, where gloves become corset-like tops and surplus army socks are reborn as avant-garde sweaters. Martin Margiela's mastery lies in his ability to imbue each creation with a sense of narrative and reinvention, inviting on-lookers to explore the juxtaposition of form and function.
Frayed hems, exposed seams, and unfinished edges are deliberate choices that challenge traditional notions of craftsmanship and beauty. Through the inventive use of DIY techniques and patchwork, Maison Margiela's style highlights the raw and unfinished, an intersection of a punk and minimalist mood.
Maison Margiela's Iconic Pieces to Shop
Martin Margiela's design philosophy remains evident in the Maison's current line of offerings. With John Galliano steering the creative direction, the French fashion house continues to create pieces that showcase the brand's hallmark style of raw construction and innovative material deconstruction.
If you're on the brink of delving into the Margiela craze, these selections from their latest Spring/Summer ready-to-wear line are the perfect pieces to get you started.
Tabi Ankle Boots
Crafted from soft nappa leather, the ankle boots feature an eight-centimeter cylindrical heel and the Tabi split-toe shape, inspired by the traditional 15th-century Japanese sock bearing the same name.
Tabi ankle boots, €1320 (approximately P81,971.82), MAISON MARGIELA, maisonmargiela.com
Replica sneakers
Taking inspiration from 1970s Austrian sports shoes, Maison Margiela's iconic Replica sneakers are crafted from nappa leather and suede with a honey sole.
Replica sneakers, €665 (approximately P41,296.41), MAISON MARGIELA, maisonmargiela.com
5AC Classique Mini
Maison Margiela's 5AC line, named after the French word "sac" (bag), embodies the concept of “anonymity of the lining.” It features hand-covered metal rivets and hand-painted exposed edges, highlighting the brand’s meticulous artisanal craftsmanship.
5AC Classique Mini, €2375 (approximately P147,487.17), MAISON MARGIELA, maisonmargiela.com
Pendleton reversible shirt
The long-sleeved shirt, crafted from Pendleton wool gabardine, showcases Maison Margiela’s signature four stitches at the chest or back, depending on how it's worn. Its design is punctuated by buttoned cuffs, a contrast tie at the high neck, and Décortiqué slits that reveal the brand's signature checked motif underneath.
Pendleton reversible shirt, €1290(approximately P80,108.82), MAISON MARGIELA, maisonmargiela.com
Cropped Collarless Denim Jacket
This waist-cropped, collarless denim jacket features classic metal hardware and seam detailing. It showcases a raw finish at the neck and the iconic four white stitches on the back, highlighting Maison Margiela's signature touch.
Cropped Collarless Denim Jacket, €1220(approximately P75,761.83), MAISON MARGIELA, maisonmargiela.com
Celebrities in Maison Margiela
Zendaya
Kim Soo Hyun
Marian Rivera
Alden Richards
Where to Shop Maison Margiela in the Philippines
In the Philippines, Maison Margiela is exclusively carried by the Homme et Femme group under the helm of BoF 500 honoree Jappy Gonzalez. You can cop the latest pieces from the brand at their 8 Rockwell boutique.
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