Visiting Hohenbaden Castle (Altes Schloss), Baden-Baden

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This was one of my favourite castles I’ve ever visited in Germany. Now, I know that’s a pretty strong statement: Germany has a lot of castles and surely some others would beat this one? Well, perhaps, and I know that Hohenbaden Castle doesn’t come close to the top of the best castles in Germany. 

HOWEVER, Hohenbaden Castle (also known as Altes Schloss or Altes Schloss Baden-Baden) was one of the first castles I’ve ever visited in the country.

When we were there, it was almost completely empty, and the views we saw from the top were out of this world. So, I’ve kind of gained a bit of a soft spot for it. I mean look at the photo below!

That’s the sort of thing you can expect from this tiny hidden gem in the middle of the Black Forest. In total honesty, compared to some of the other castles in Germany, it’s not much. But it’s also completely fantastic and well worth a visit if you’re in the area.

✅ If you’re planning on visiting Hohenbaden or the Black Forest, hiring a car makes it easier to get around and will save you a lot of time.

What is Hohenbaden Castle (Altes Schloss)?

With its roots stretching back to the 12th century, Hohenbaden Castle has survived one heck of a lot. Built around 1100 by Herman II, Margrave of Baden, the castle’s strategic viewpoint made it great for defence. 

It expanded over the centuries, eventually becoming a fortress with a complex of buildings surrounded by defensive walls. In the 15th century, under Margrave Bernhard I, the castle became a regal residence.

Then, By the 16th century, it was abandoned in favour of the new and more modern Rastatt Residence in the Rhine Valley.

Today, it is nothing more than ruins. Its remaining walls and towers are a great place to explore and they also offer panoramic views of Baden-Baden and the surrounding valley.

This is the type of castle that I like the most. The empty shells of a place that you can explore at your own leisure and imagine what it used to be like.

Don’t get me wrong, furnished castles and palaces are surely interesting, but there’s something about structures like this that I find fascinating and oddly peaceful.

How to Get to Hohenbaden Castle

This isn’t the easiest castle to get to. When we visited Hohenbaden Castle, we were on a road trip around southwestern Germany. We’d already visited Frankfurt, Cologne, and Heidelberg and this was one of the day trips we did from Baden-Baden.

By Car

From the centre of Baden-Baden, it’s roughly a 10-minute drive. However, the final stretch of the road is fairly narrow, uphill, and winding, so be careful if you’re planning on driving. 

If you’ve hired a car and are driving, there are also parking options near the entrance to the castle. The car park is completely free.

✅ I recommend this company to book your hire car in Baden-Baden!

By Public Transport

You can get here by public transportation as well, but it’s significantly trickier. There are no direct buses up to the castle – no doubt because of the wingy nature of the road.

Instead, you’ll have to take the 244 bus from the centre of Baden-Baden to the “Ebersteinburg Kapelle” stop. From there, it’s still about a 30-minute uphill walk to the entrance to the castle.

By Foot

You can actually hike all the way from the centre of Baden-Baden to Hohenbaden Castle. It will only take about an hour and combines my two favourite things to do in the Black Forest – seeing old castle ruins and hiking!

If you do decide to hike up to the castle, I highly recommend bringing at least 2 litres of water, and comfortable walking shoes. The trail isn’t too tricky, but some parts are unpaved and the climb is pretty steep in parts.

Follow the signs for Altes Schloss, and you’ll also be rewarded with great views over Baden-Baden along the way.  

Exploring the Castle Grounds

Once you’ve reached the castle, it’s time to explore. You’ll quickly see why this is one of my favourite ruins in the area. The views from the top are stunning and you can explore the entire castle at your own pace.

It’s completely free to enter and, when we were there, it was pretty much deserted. There was one other couple there, so it felt like we had the whole place to ourselves.

There’s not a huge amount of information about the castle, so you kind of have to guess what everything used to be. Inside the castle, be sure to look for the one-of-a-kind wind harp known as the “Knight’s Hall”.

Considered Europe’s largest wind harp, it’s still relatively young at just over 20 years old. As the wind blows through the 120 strings, you’ll be treated to a range of beautiful melodies.

We first decided to explore the lower level, and then climb to the higher parts. 

Here’s a word of warning, however, the castle can be a little bit sketchy in places. Some of the stairs to the upper levels don’t have handrails, so when you’re climbing, you have to be extra careful not to slip.

Plus, since the castle is pretty much empty, you’re exploring entirely at your own risk. So, be sure to be very careful. 

Despite this, it’s more than worth climbing to those upper levels for the views alone. Stretching over the Black Forest for miles, the sights are fantastic.

This is another reason that the castle holds such as special place in my heart – I saw some of the most magnificent winter scenery I’ve ever seen from the top of this castle.

Top Tips and Recommendations

Here are a few of my top tips to make the most of your visit to Altes Schloss Baden Baden.

Best Times to Visit Hohenbaden Castle

The shoulder seasons of spring and autumn offer mild weather and thinner crowds. However, we visited in the winter months and it was splendid.

It was also -6°C and a little icy on some of the upper parts of the castle though, so be extra careful if you’re considering visiting in winter.

What to Bring to Hohenbaden Castle

You’ll most likely want comfortable walking shoes, a camera, and a bottle of water. 

You could also bring a picnic to enjoy on the castle grounds. There is a restaurant on-site, but it’s only open in the warmer months, so if you’re visiting off-season, a picnic is a must if you want to eat here. There is a selection of benches outside the entrance to the castle.

You Can Also Go Hiking Nearby

If you enjoy hiking, there is a network of trails that surround Hohenbaden Castle. Many of these offer more spectacular views over the Black Forest. 

The Battert Roundtrip (red trail) is a great starting point. It’ll take around 2 hours and will give you a chance to see the beautiful pillar rock formations similar to those in Bastei Bridge near Dresden. The trail isn’t too difficult either, so, if you have time, it’s definitely one to try.

Visit the Local Attractions too

As well as the castle itself, don’t miss the many other wonderful things to do in Baden-Baden, the nearby spa town.

One of the best places to base yourself to see the Black Forest, you can find historic thermal baths, a beautiful park of Lichtentaler Allee Park, a stunning Opera House and lots of gorgeous architecture. It’s all just a short, 10-minute drive away.

✅ I recommend this company to book your hire car in Baden-Baden!

Final Thoughts on Visiting Altes Schloss Hohenbaden

Overall, if you enjoy deserted ruins, imagining what it would be like to explore a castle in its heyday and breathtaking viewpoints, I highly recommend visiting Hohenbaden Castle. when you’re near the Black Forest or southwestern Germany.

It’s a must on any  Baden-Baden itinerary and I really enjoyed my time exploring here. It will probably always have a place in my heart and I’ll remember it any time I think of beautiful winter scenery and romantic ruins.

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