European Ribbon

📖  Introduction

The Church and Monastery of São Vicente de Fora (St. Vincent Outside the Walls) is a prominent structure visible from afar. It is enormous and grand, evoking admiration and interest. Its location and symbolism are not accidental. Interestingly, despite its impressive size and the two majestic towers connected by a facade, the church is not a cathedral.

Saint Vincent

The patron of the church and the entire city of Lisbon is Saint Vincent of Saragossa, a martyr priest whose relics were brought from Cape St. Vincent in 1173 by King Afonso I the Conqueror. After his death, ravens guarded the saint’s body and accompanied the ship transporting his relics. This motif of a ship and two ravens is depicted on the city’s current coat of arms.

The Siege of Lisbon

King Afonso I the Conqueror was the first to order the construction of a monastery on the hill outside the city walls. This site had been his military encampment, from which he patiently observed the Moorish fortress, later known as the Castle of Saint George, during the Siege of Lisbon in 1147. The monastery, built as a thank offering to God, was run by the Augustinian Order and became a monument to the king’s greatest triumph and a symbol of the birth of Portuguese statehood.

The enormous Romanesque structure was one of the most important and distinctive buildings in medieval Portugal and a source of pride for the kings. Its history, combined with its visibility from every point in the city and from the river, made it a symbol of the dynastic changes that occurred on the Portuguese throne at the end of the 16th century.

Under Habsburg Rule

For the first time in history, Portugal’s fiercely defended independence from neighboring Spain was lost with the childless, premature death of the last Portuguese king, Sebastian I (1554-1578). The king, who died at the age of 24, was the only son of John Manuel de Aviz and Joanna of Habsburg, the sister of Spanish king Philip II. In 1580, Philip II simultaneously ascended the Portuguese throne as Philip I. Thus, Portugal came under the rule of three successive Philips for the next 60 years, becoming part of the Spanish Empire.

The symbolic end of the Portuguese Aviz dynasty’s reign was marked by the dismantling of the church’s foundations, the demolition of old buildings, and the construction of a new church in the Renaissance Mannerist style—a sign of the new political dynasty. The reconstruction lasted until 1629, with Juan de Herrera, the builder of the San Lorenzo de El Escorial palace-monastery complex near Madrid, among the project designers. The Portuguese architect Baltazar Alves supervised the work and is credited with creating the facade and adapting Mannerist elements to local tastes.

Through the reconstruction of São Vicente de Fora, the Spanish rulers sought to leave a lasting symbol of their presence in Lisbon, creating a building that inspired admiration and attracted attention with its white limestone facade and beautiful marble decorations.

The Braganza Dynasty

King John IV the Restorer of the Braganza dynasty, a cadet branch of the Aviz dynasty, quickly claimed the building after Portugal regained its independence in 1640. He decided to establish a pantheon for his dynasty in the monastery, a function it continues to serve to this day. The remains of all the kings, including the last one, Manuel II, who ascended the throne in 1908 after the assassination of his father and elder brother, are housed here. Manuel II was forced to abdicate on October 4, 1910, following the outbreak of the revolution.

In the 17th and 18th centuries, during the reigns of Peter II and John V, the monastery was richly decorated with artistic embellishments that can still be admired today. Beautiful marble adornments and tiles depicting historical events, such as the capture of Lisbon and scenes from Portugal’s history, notably omit the 60 years of Spanish rule under the Philips.

In the 18th century, São Vicente de Fora was severely damaged by a storm in 1724 and an earthquake in 1755. The church’s vault, its magnificent dome, and transept were destroyed. The rebuilt temple featured a patriarchal church with a monumental canopy by Joaquim Machado de Castro, which is now displayed in the museum, along with historic gold-decorated organs.

During the dissolution of the monasteries in 1834, the monastery housed the palace of the archbishops of Lisbon and a secondary school named after Gil Vicente. In 1910, the church was declared a national monument.

🚶‍♀Visit

Visiting São Vicente de Fora includes both the church and the monastery. The main part of the church is accessible for free, but this only allows access to the rear pews of the temple. To get closer to the altar, you need to take the monastery tour, which we highly recommend.

Outside, to the right of the church, there’s a small patio. From here, you enter a small shop where you buy the ticket and start the monastery tour.

The first rooms you encounter are the cisterns, structures used for storing rainwater, remnants from medieval times. To the south of the church are two cloisters adorned with blue and white Baroque tiles featuring secular motifs. If you are impressed by the cloister decorations, know that this is just the beginning. From the cloisters, you can directly enter the church, this time very close to the altar, allowing you to observe the details calmly.

From the church, you return to the sacristy, which is still in use today and is considered the most beautiful room in the monastery due to its colorful 18th-century inlaid marble decorations. In the floor, you can see tombs uncovered during excavations, belonging to crusaders from the time of King Afonso I the Conqueror.

Further along, you will find the Royal Pantheon and the Patriarchal Pantheon. Nearby is the Chapel of Saint Anthony, who undertook his novitiate in the order. The chapel is located where Saint Anthony’s cell was in the medieval monastery.

As you walk along the upper-floor cloisters, you will pass more unique tile paintings, ending your tour on the church’s roof. From here, you can look in all four directions and enjoy breathtaking views of the surroundings.

✔ Planner

To get to São Vicente de Fora:

• By tram 🚋: Take tram number 28 from Martim Moniz Square to the “Voz do Operario” stop.
• By metro 🚇: Take the blue line to the last station, Santa Apolonia, then walk uphill for 10 minutes.