15 Things to Do in Racha-Lechkhumi, Western Georgia’s Mountain Paradise

Whenever I get to talking about travel with a Georgian, the first place they usually want to know if I’ve visited yet is Racha.

Racha is often spoken about as a sort of ‘mountain paradise’; a pristine landscape of peaks, lakes, mineral springs, stony river beaches, hiking trails and secluded cabins that has so far escaped the heavy hand of tourism laid on Svaneti and Kazbegi.

Located in the highlands of Western Georgia between Svaneti and South Ossetia (Tskhinvali/Samachablo), Racha – officially Racha-Lechkhumi and Lower Svaneti region – is a hugely popular summer destination among locals.

Known as a place for relaxation and respite, this is where you go to cool off (the temperate climate helps with that), eat good food, and drink good wine.

Among international tourists, Racha definitely falls into the category of lesser-visited places in Georgia, mostly because it’s a bit trickier to get to and to get around.

It’s preferable to visit Racha with your own car, but even if you’re not driving, it’s still possible to work parts of Racha into your Georgia itinerary, travelling by van from either Kutaisi (~2 hours) or Tbilisi (~3.5 hours via the new road through Sachkhere near Chiatura).

Racha is divided into three parts based on elevation: Lower Racha, Upper Racha, and the mountainous zone. In Lower Racha, you’ll find the biggest city, Ambrolauri, and nearby, one of Georgia’s most distinguished Orthodox churches.

The beautiful small town of Oni, once the centre of Jewish culture in Georgia, and the forgotten spa resort town of Shovi are located further east in the foothills of the Greater Caucasus. The high-altitude villages of Ghebi and Gona are further up still.

To the west, the Lechkhumi part of Racha-Lechkhumi is a different landscape of limestone cliffs and pillars, with more isolated settlements perched high in the hills.

My Racha guide focuses on the area’s cultural attractions, wine and cuisine, with a side of nature and plenty of epic views. I’ll show you how to get to Racha, where to base your stay, and all my favourite things to do in this underrated region.

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Best time to visit Racha

Because of its high elevation, Racha (especially Upper Racha and the mountain villages) has a cooler climate, making it a great place to retreat from the summer heat. Our host in Oni told us he often has to light up the fireplace as early (or late?) as August!

Summer is definitely the most popular time to visit Racha, especially for hiking and for lazing about on Shaori Lake.

There are a couple of music and cultural festivals held in Racha over summer, including:

• Rokva, – electronic music festival held annually at the end of July in Shovi
• Gemo Fest, a roving food and wine festival that makes its way to Ambrolauri at the end of August

Racha is one of the few places in Georgia where you can see exquisite fall colours. In the first week of September, the leaves were just started to change. This year we visited Racha again at the beginning of November and the colours were absolutely mind blowing.

These two photos were taken on November 9, 2022:

Autumn is also a great time to visit if you’re interested in wine. The Rtveli grape harvest usually takes place a little later in the west than in Kakheti (around late October/November in Racha). Exact dates vary year to year.

Winter in Racha, by contrast, is snowy and bitterly cold. Some of the upper villages are inaccessible due to snowfall.

A word of warning: Spring and summer sometimes bring heavy rains. Just before we visited Racha for the first time, floodwaters washed away part of the road, leaving several of the upper villages cut off. It was repaired within a week but landslides are not unheard of.

If you’re hiking or driving off-road, it’s important to consult a local about weather conditions before you set off.

It’s also worth mentioning that Racha is a seasonal destination. Many smaller restaurants, cafes and bars close down outside of summer – some shut as early as September 1. Guesthouses and museums remain open, but in terms of food and drink, your choices will definitely be more limited outside of summer.

How to get to Racha with your own car

If possible, I recommend visiting Racha with your own car so that you can easily move around. Public transport between the villages is sparse, and relying on taxis will limit how much you can see and do.

The roads are quiet and in good condition, with only a few unpaved sections near Shovi (although by the time you read this it may well be fixed). A 4WD is recommended if you’re going to Shovi and mandatory for villages higher than that.

I personally use Local Rent to rent cars in Georgia – the site aggregates local agents so prices are always great, and many vehicles come with comprehensive insurance included (and no deposit).

The clearest route to Racha is via the new Sachkhere/Oni road, taking around 3 hours from Tbilisi. From Kutaisi, it’s best to use the Zestafoni/Tkibuli road, which takes around 1.5-2 hours.

See my Georgia road trip itinerary here and see my tips for driving in Georgia here.

How to get to Racha without a car

In late 2021, a new road opened from Sachkhere to Oni, making it easier than ever to get to Racha from Tbilisi using public transport. Travel time from Tbilisi to Oni is now a mere 3.5-4 hours by marshrtuka van. This road is absolutely spectacular and an attraction in and of itself (see #15 on this list!).

From Oni, you will likely be able to organise a private driver or shared transfers to other parts of Racha through your guesthouse.

Another option is to fly to Ambrolauri airport. In summer, local carrier Vanillasky runs prop planes from Natakhtari (north of Tbilisi, near Mtskheta) three times a week. Check times and prices here.

Tbilisi to Oni

There are 1 or 2 daily buses from Tbilisi to Oni departing from Okriba Bus Station (Didube). Depending on the time of year, these might be marshrutka minivans or big coach buses.

The schedule varies from season to season, but there is normally a morning van at around 8.30am and/or an afternoon van between 2-3pm. Double-check the schedule on this Facebook page. Call the number to reserve a seat, or arrive at the station at least 30-40 minutes early to make sure you get a spot.

The fare is 30 GEL and is paid directly to the driver. Travel time to Oni is approximately 3.5 hours. These vans use the new Sachkhere road and do not stop in Ambrolauri.

See my Didube Bus Terminal video guide for more tips on navigating the station.

A more flexible option is to organise a private transfer from Tbilisi to Ambrolauri/Oni. I recommend using GoTrip to find a reliable driver so that you can make as many stops along the way as you want. Fares to Oni start from 270 GEL for the whole car.

Use GoTrip to book a transfer from Tbilisi to Oni.

There is also an option to fly to Ambrolauri from Natakhtari Airport with local airline Vanilla Sky. They provide a free transfer service to the airfield from Tbilisi. Flights are seasonal – usually they run from late May through summer-autumn. Tickets cost around 50 GEL one-way. Check the schedule and book tickets on the Vanilla Sky website.

For getting back to Tbilisi, check times and pick up locations for vans/taxis with your guesthouse in Racha.

Kutaisi to Oni or Kutaisi to Ambrolauri

Depending on your itinerary, it could be more convenient to depart for Racha from Kutaisi. Note that there are two different roads vans may possibly take to Racha – one route takes 2-ish hours, the other takes 5-plus hours. The more efficient option is to travel via Tkibuli.

There are 5 daily marshrutka vans from Kutaisi to Racha. The first van leaves from the small bus station near the Chain Bridge at 10am. There is a second departure from this location at 2pm. These vans go the ‘scenic route’ via Alpana. Tickets cost 12 GEL for Ambrolauri or 15 GEL for Oni.

More vans depart from Central Bus Station (near the McDonalds) at 11am (for Ambrolauri) and 4pm (for Ambrolauri and Oni). Tickets cost 15-20 GEL, and these drivers take the faster route.

Alternatively, a private transfer to Oni from Kutaisi starts from 140 GEL when booked through GoTrip.

To get back to Kutaisi, marshrutka vans depart Oni at 9am, 10am and 3pm. Vans depart Ambrolauri at 8am and 9.30am. Double check times and pick up locations at your guesthouse in Racha.

Where to stay in Racha

I recommend staying in either Ambrolauri or Oni. Either town makes a good base for exploring Lower and Upper Racha, and both have a nice range of accommodation options as well as restaurants, shops and ATMs.

We stayed in Oni, the more atmospheric of the two towns (in my opinion). I highly recommend eating your meals at the guesthouse as there are limited restaurant options in Oni.

Where to stay in Oni

Family Hotel Gallery is my top choice for accommodation in Oni. Accommodation is provided inside a 200-year-old heritage wooden house decorated in typical Rachan style, with bear skins draped over the beautiful fretwork verandas (work of host Temuri) and macrame and feltwork on every wall (the work of hostess Elene). Son Nika is incredibly helpful with local tips and transportation, and canine host Bombora has been known to carry guests’ bag to their room.

Other perks include home-cooked meals (full board is available), bottomless wine and cosy surrounds (I recommend taking the private room with ensuite above the family cellar). The property is right in the centre of Oni, walking distance from the bus station, the synagogue, and all other attractions.

If you don’t have your own car, you could quite happily base yourself here for a couple of days, taking easy walks around town and relaxing.

Where to stay in Ambrolauri

While Oni has lots of cute guesthouses, Ambrolauri is known for its riverside bungalows and cosy cabins.

Pine Tree Home is my pick of the bunch. Located in the centre of Ambrolauri, the A-frame cottage on the back of a family property sleeps up to 5 people. There’s a full kitchen for self-catering, and a home-cooked breakfast is available on request.

For something more upscale, Chateau Dio and Sadmeli Winery both offer beautiful rooms on the western side of Ambrolauri.

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Suggested itinerary for Racha

I recommend spending two or three full days in Racha, more if you want to do any of the longer hikes. Here’s an example of how you might structure your visit. This is essentially the itinerary I followed on my first trip.

• Day 1: Arrive in Racha, stopping at Tskhrajvari viewpoint, Shaori Lake, Nikortsminda, Ambrolauri and Barakoni on the way to Oni; do a wine tasting in Sadmeli in the evening.
• Day 2: Spend the morning exploring Oni; drive into the mountains towards Shovi in the afternoon.
• Day 3: Head west to Lechkhumi; hike to Sairme Pillars; continue to Lailashi Secret Pool; stop for a wine tasting in Khvanchkara on the way back OR continue driving to Sachkhere/Chiatura/Kutaisi via the new road.

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Map of things to do in Racha

Click here to open my Racha map on Google Maps.

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Things to do in Racha-Lechkhumi

Here are my favourite things to do in Racha, including must-sees in Ambrolauri, Oni and Shovi, plus a couple of alternative spots you can access by car.

1. Visit the incredible Oni Synagogue

Seeing Oni Synagogue in person was probably the highlight of Racha for me. I had read a lot about this building and the history it represents in the lead-up. As I walked the streets of Oni on my first afternoon, I let out a little gasp as it came into view.

The synagogue looks out of place and yet right at home, perched on the bend of a suburban street in the centre of Oni, blue mountain peaks as a backdrop.

Designed by Polish architects and constructed by labourers from Thessaloniki, the synagogue was built in 1895. At that time, Oni’s Jewish community was the third-largest in the country (after Tbilisi and Kutaisi), and the congregation numbered up to a quarter of a million people.

In the 1970s, the majority of Oni’s Jewish residents left for Israel. In 1992, an earthquake hit Racha and severely damaged the synagogue, prompting more people to leave. Today there are only a handful of Jewish families left in Oni.

Still, the synagogue remains active. Built in a Moorish-style, the blockish exterior cuts an impressive figure with its stonework and silver-blue dome. Visitors can make an appointment to go inside with one of the caretakers. I happened to be in Oni on a Friday so I didn’t get the chance.

When you’re finished admiring the synagogue, I suggest setting aside another hour or so to wander around Oni. It’s a very pleasant small town of shaded streets filled with cute cabins and some very beautiful old wooden houses with typical Racha-style fretwork. 

Duck down any side street on the western edge of town to access the bank of the Rioni, the roaring silver-coloured river that originates in the mountains of Racha and winds its way down to Kutaisi.

For an aerial panorama of Oni, there is a marked viewpoint on the highway approaching from Kutaisi just before you enter town.

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2. Wander through the Oni Museum of Local Lore

This small museum is well worth a walk through – not necessarily for the exhibits, but rather to look through the dimly lit rooms on the lower level. And to admire the building itself.

The back rooms of the museum look like your quirky aunt’s storage closet. Wooden racks and drawers house thousands upon thousands of objects: Snow shoes, sections of fretwork lifted from houses around Oni, stone and bronze tools, archival photographs, and a beautiful collection of wooden trunks.

Another room serves as a gallery for paintings by local artist Shota Goshadze, some depicting Oni during its more illustrious days at the turn of the century.

Upstairs, you’ll find a magnificent hand-carved wooden bench seat that stretches almost the full length of the building (it’s pictured above). Apparently these traditional chairs had to be long enough to seat the entire family – in this case, the clan must have numbered at least a dozen people.

A very solemn and weather-worn Stalin painting hangs on the wall above the stairs, creating a surreal and slightly eerie vignette.

Museum staff speak minimal English but will happily chaperone you (actually, I’m not sure if you have a choice!) and point out any noteworthy objects in the collection.

Don’t miss seeing the carved stone blocks salvaged from churches in Racha, displayed on an outdoor terrace, or the very impressive large-scale macrame wall hangings in the upstairs corridor.

The museum is open from 10am-5pm Tuesday to Sunday (closed Mondays). Entrance costs 3 GEL.

Update: In August 2022, a new museum opened in Oni. The collection is the same, but the modern museum building looks very different to what’s pictured here!

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3. Shop for souvenirs at Ethnoni

This little shop on Oni’s main street, just down from the museum, sells a range of feltwork, rope macrame and other Rachan handicrafts by local makers such as Edena.

There’s also local honey, wine and other edible goodies on offer. Ideal if you’re packing a picnic for later or in the market for some unique Georgian souvenirs.

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4. Walk to the smaller villages around Oni

If you’re looking for an easy walk close to town, there is a gentle forest trail behind Gallery Hotel that leads up the hill behind Oni to a smaller village.

The path is cool and green, and there are nice mountain views from the top. In the quiet village, fat pigs (tomorrow’s Rachan ham) wander the dirt roads past rusted trucks and picturesque haystacks.

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5. Drive to ‘Stalin’s Dacha’ in Shovi

After the synagogue in Oni, the second piece of Rachan architecture I was eagerly awaiting to see was this delightfully dilapidated wooden house in Shovi.

It’s colloquially known as ‘Stalin’s Dacha’, but the title is probably a misnomer – according to our hosts in Oni, the leader never set foot in the area. That only adds to the mystery!

This grand, perfectly symmetrical, four-story house was constructed in the mid-1920s by a local doctor. I’m not sure if it was ever finished or if it was abandoned and gutted later. Either way, it’s a minor miracle that it’s still standing.

The house is located in Shovi, an almost-forgotten resort town that was popular during Imperialist and Soviet times thanks to its curative mineral springs (not unlike Tskaltubo or Borjomi). It can be reached in a little over an hour from Oni via a scenic mountain road that follows the fast-flowing Rioni river.

When we drove up to Shovi to seek out the house, there was no one else around. The only sign of civilisation was a stack of besser bricks arranged in front of the house, clearly positioned to prop up one’s mobile phone when snapping selfies.

We sat on the front lawn and ate a picnic lunch before walking around the house’s perimeter and peeking inside.

Take care when exploring – many of the floorboards are missing or rotted through, and there’s lots of junk (including nails and glass) in the grass around the home.

Also inside the gated complex at Shovi you’ll see a second large wooden house with carved balconies. This one was used as a respite home for Russian soldiers but has met a similar fate to the dacha and is now in tatters.

Important update: In May 2022 this second building, the military sanatorium, was unfortunately destroyed by fire. The dacha house is still standing. In summer 2023 there was a tragic mudslide in Shovi that destroyed part of the resort. The area may or may not be accessible this year – ask locally in Oni before you drive up.

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6. Do a Khvanchkara wine tasting

Though not nearly as popular as the one in Kakheti, Racha has its own Wine Route. Majority of the vineyards and cellars are located in Lower Racha in the villages north-west of Ambrolauri.

Winemakers in Western Georgia use the same Qvevri techniques as in the East – that is, fermenting grapes in massive clay amphora buried underground. Racha is synonymous with Khvanchkara, a sweet, fruity red made from a blend of two grapes that are endemic to Lower Racha. Khvanchkara was famously Stalin’s wine of choice… But don’t let that deter you.

Two more notable grapes, Usakhelauri and Tvishi, are grown in microzones in Lechkhumi and produce a semi-sweet red and semi-sweet white respectively.

Rachan wineries range from commercial operations to small family cellars. I did a wine tasting at a tiny family guesthouse in Dzirageuli called Margveladze Wine Cellar, which involved two types of Khvanchkara and a smorgasbord of salty Rachan delicacies.

Most wineries are small operations and can’t accommodate walk-ins. I highly recommend phoning or messaging a day or two in advance.

Where to do a wine tasting in Racha

• Margveladze Wine Cellar (Dzirageuli): This family cellar is set inside the most beautiful wooden house you’ve ever seen in your life. An unforgettable experience. Bookings essential.
• Royal Khvanchkara (Ambrolauri): This large commercial winery offers organised tours and tastings.
• Chateau Dio (Dzirageuli): This family guesthouse offers home-cooked meals and natural wines. Bookings essential.
• Sadmeli Winery (Sadmeli): Qvevri wines, Rachan cuisine and guest accommodation near Ambrolauri.
• Nika’s Rachan Winery (Khvanchkara): Wine-making demonstrations and tastings with a third-generation Khvanchkara master.

For something less formal – in the summer months, outdoors bars such as Bungalow Changes (Ambrolauri) and On The River (Ghviara) serve drinks to bikini-clad punters on stony beaches along the Rioni.

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7. Eat Racha ham & Shkmeruli

Racha region is associated with a couple of specialty Georgian dishes, including my all-time favourite, Shkmeruli, a rich and punchy chicken dish made with lots and lots of garlic. This work of art was devised in Shkmeri village south of Oni and is prepared in homes and restaurants throughout the region.

Another Racha specialty is smoked ham. Before visiting Racha I had only ever eaten it folded through lobiani beans. In Racha, it’s often served in thick slices on a plate. It’s quite fatty, salty and soft from being boiled.

Where to eat in Racha

• Guest House Gallery (Oni): The chef here is an expert in Rachan cuisine and recently appeared on local TV flaunting her skills. If you’re staying at the guesthouse, you can add lunch and dinner onto your tarif (highly recommended as there aren’t many stand-alone restaurants in Oni). Walk-in diners can be accommodated if you call or message in advance.
• Tchrebalo Wine Cellar (Tchrebalo): This new winery-restaurant on the way to Sairme Pillars serves local delicacies in a beautiful dining room. The shkmeruli chicken, salad with jonjoli, and mchadi corn bread with tarragon are all highly recommended.
• Iline (Tsesi): This simple roadside bakery between Oni and Ambrolauri serves the best lobiani with Rachan ham. Note that it’s only open in summer.

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8. Sip cocktails inside the old Ambrolauri Post Office

More and more trendy venues are starting to pop up in Ambrolauri. The coolest is definitely Posta Bar, a hip drinking hole set inside the city’s former post office.

The bar serves cocktails, beer and local wine accompanied by mood lighting and music. It’s a summer-only affair – the bar closes up in September.

If you prefer your drinks plein air, On the River and Bungalow Changes are two outdoor bars in Racha, both with sun loungers set out on the riverside.

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9. See modern art in Ambrolauri

Established in 1965, the Ambrolauri Museum of Fine Arts displays a beautiful collection of canvases and drawings by 20th century national artists, including Lado Gudiashvili, David Kakabadze and Levan Tsutskiridze. If you have a free afternoon in Ambrolauri, or if you need a rainy day activity, it’s very much worth walking through.

The museum is located inside a grand peach-coloured building in the centre of town, near the Royal Khvanchkara HQ. It is open daily from 10am-7pm. Tickets cost 2 GEL.

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10. Admire the stone carvings at Nikortsminda Cathedral 

Nikortsminda Cathedral is often named among the most beautiful churches in the entire Caucasus region. Yet I had never even heard of it before I visited Racha for the first time.

The cathedral was constructed under the patronage of King Bagrat III between 1010 and 1014 AD. The interior – unusual for Georgia because of its hexagonal shape – is covered from top to toe in vibrant 17th-century frescoes.

But it’s the stone carvings on the exterior that the cathedral is most famous for (and the reason why it’s now included on UNESCO’s Tentative List). Believed to be some of the most elaborate and well-executed in the region, the bas reliefs depict various saints and detailed biblical scenes.

Nikortsminda is located just off the highway before you reach Ambrolauri and can be visited as a quick detour on your way up.

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11. Peek inside Barakoni Church

Another church worth stopping for is the Church of the Mother God, more commonly known as Barakoni. Built in 1753 from local sandstone, it sits pretty in a leafy depression just off the highway near the village of Tsesi.

Access to the church and gardens is via a steep driveway that affords pretty views of the complex the whole way down.

The iconostasis (the screen that separates the nave of the church from the altar) has to be one of the most beautiful in the country. Made from dark wood and hard-carved and painted with images and delicate floral flourishes, it is similar to the one at Bodbe St. Nino Convent in Kakheti, yet quite unlike anything else I’ve seen in Georgia.

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12. Kick back on Shaori Lake

This huge lake south of Ambrolauri – actually a manmade reservoir – is one of Racha’s most popular attractions. In summer, people flock here to swim, fish and hike on shaded trails around the lake’s edge.

There are a couple of outdoor cafes and bars where you can grab a hammock and a drink, or pitch a tent and settle in. And on the northern side of the lake, you’ll find summer cabins you can rent by the night.

Safe to say that come autumn, Shaori looks completely different!

Completely enveloped in deciduous trees, Shaori is undoubtedly one of the best places in Georgia for autumn colours. There are several spots on the lake’s edge where you can safely park your car and walk deeper into the forest.

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13. Hike Tskhrajvari for the best views of Racha

Though technically in neighbouring Imereti region, Tskhrajvari (‘Nine Crosses’) is a must-do when you’re in this area. The shrine and viewpoint is located on the outskirts of Tkibuli, right off the highway between Kutaisi and Ambrolauri.

A newly sealed road leads up to a carpark where the hiking trail begins. Pass by the abandoned concrete cable car station building (the second-longest ropeway in Georgia used to run here) then summit the mountain via newly constructed staircases and walkways. The walk takes around 30 minutes one-way, but the terrain is pretty tough, so you’ll need decent shoes.

When you reach the peak, you’ll be rewarded with incredible panoramic views of Tkibuli reservoir, Racha, the Greater Caucasus mountains, and Upper Imereti. Pick a clear day for the hike – it does get very foggy – and you might be able to see all the way out to the Black Sea.

Read my tips for the Tskhrajvari hike here.

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14. Find the ‘Secret Pool’ in Lailashi

Okronishi Decorative Fountain, better known as ‘Lailashi Secret Pool’, is possibly the most scenic spot in the region. Located west of Ambrolauri in mountainous Lechkhumi, it can only be reached via a steep, unpaved road and requires a 4WD. In my opinion the natural freshwater pool is worth the two-hour detour off the highway for the views.

The tiled pool is fed by several fountains that stream icy cold mountain water. The water cascades over the lip of the main pool into a smaller trough below, giving it the effect of an infinity pool. It’s a truly spectacular sight (and one of the best selfie spots in Georgia).

Lailashi village where the fountain is located has an interesting backstory wrapped up in the Ancient Silk Road and Georgia’s Jewish history. There’s a cafe and toilet block adjacent to the pool.

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15. Drive the new road to Sachkhere

If your driving route takes you in the opposite direction towards the east, I highly recommend taking the new road through the mountains to Sachkhere.

This 51-kilometre stretch of highway was completed in 2021 and is absolutely one of the most scenic roads in all of Georgia. A panoramic mountain backdrop follows you the entire way, and in the autumn months (especially from late October to early November) the colours are popping.

If you have time, you can stop off at Shkmeri Lake, Usholta Cave, the Queen Tamar Rocks and Kheori Canyon. For more details, see this post by Kim and Del at Going the Whole Hogg.

Otherwise just sit back and enjoy the smooth road and those tight turns!

The new road starts from Zudali near Oni and goes all the way to Sachkhere in Imereti, home of the wonderful Modinakhe Castle. From there, you can continue your drive to Tbilisi or head west to reach the old mining town of Chiatura, Katskhi Pillar, Zestafoni, and Kutaisi.

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Other places to visit in Racha-Lechkhumi

Here are a couple more places we didn’t have time to visit but that I have on my list for next time.

• Sairme Pillars: As I mentioned earlier, Lechkhumi has magnificent mountains and limestone rock formations. We drove through this area but didn’t have time to stop. One way to explore the landscape is on the popular Sairme Pillars hike, a marked trail that takes around 2.5 hours return. Directions available here on Wikiloc.
• Udziro Lake: This remote alpine lake is best visited as part of a two-day thru hike starting in either Glola or Shovi. Detailes here.
• Ghebi: This picturesque mountain village in the uppermost part of mountainous Racha is set amongst meadows of wildflowers. It’s the namesake to one of my favourite restaurants in Tbilisi, so I guess the food is good! It’s also the starting point for the Lagora Huts trek. Find more information about trekking in Racha here.

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Have you been to Racha? Do you have any additional recommendations to share?

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