Welcome to Parma, Italy. Unassuming, unadorned and unabashed. Parma is a destination for food-lovers and for those who like to wander down un-touristy streets with their history still deeply embedded in stone. Parma is all about languishing over the un-trodden side streets, and thus dipping into its un-varnished soul. Ready to explore the real thing?
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Jump To
- Introduction to Parma, Italy
- Planning Your Trip to Parma, Italy
- Parma Italy Map
- Where to Stay in Parma
- The Best Hotels in Parma, Italy
- Parma Italy Restaurants
- Things to Do in Parma, Italy
- Parma Italy Weather
- Is Parma Worth Visiting in Italy?
- Is Parma Italy Safe?
- How Many Days in Parma Italy?
- Final thoughts about visiting Parma, Italy
Introduction to Parma, Italy
I’ve had the privilege of writing and talking about many of Italy’s little gems over the past few years, but few could be more "gem-like" than Parma, a lovely corner in the heart of Emilia-Romagna where art, history and food get along almost too amiably.
You sense it as you stroll through Parma: the beauty of the city’s streets, with their elaborate paving and pastel-colored buildings; the sense of aristocratic grace, somehow more inviting than overwhelming.
Parma is about history
Parma, too, has an abundance of historical riches. The Duomo di Parma is definitely one of the greatest examples of Romanesque architecture. The extravagant decoration of its frescoed dome, painted by the Renaissance master Antonio da Correggio, never fails to leave me breathless and its delicate details and heavenly light are quite beautiful. The Battistero di Parma, a few meter away, is a masterpiece of pink Verona marble and is the transition from the Romanesque to the Gothic.
Parma is about art
Art lovers have plenty to enjoy, too, as the Galleria Nazionale houses not only the finest local painters, such as Correggio and Leonardo da Vinci, but also works by important artists from further afield. Opera and theater lovers are drawn to Parma by the city’s large and vibrant repertoire, in particular the Teatro Regio. The Verdi Festival is a highlight of the operatic year.
Parma is about food
And it’s criminal to speak of Parma without raving about its food: UNESCO-listed for its ‘creativity in cuisine’ (cheese-lovers: Parmigiano Reggiano, the king of cheeses, is made here; prosciutto-lovers: Prosciutto di Parma, the king of hams…), eating in Parma is a delight, from the simplest plate of prosciutto and melon to the most delicious tortelli d’erbetta.
And local vineyards beckon with tours where you can sip Lambrusco or Fortana wines with the Lambrusco and Fortana dishes.
Parma is inviting
Parma’s compactness, its small town-like scale, embellished by pedestrian avenues, makes it a delight for slow, sauntering walks, from the tranquil Parco Ducale to the animated piazzas.
And every time I write or talk about Parma, or give advice to the traveler, I stress that it is a place where the eye delights, and the ear, and the nose, and the palate, and every sense. It’s really a total-sensory experience.
Planning Your Trip to Parma, Italy
Are you planning to visit Parma, that beautiful city in Italy? There are several options you can take to get there depending on your starting point if it’s within the city or if you are traveling from afar.
How to Get to Parma, Italy
By Plane
The closest big airport is Milan Malpensa (MXP), 156km away, which handles most of the airport’s international flights, and is well connected to the center of Parma by bus and train. There are two main ways of getting to Parma from Malpensa.
By Train
Get out and take the train to Milano Centrale, and change lines for the final leg to Parma. The entire trip is about two hours and 37 minutes.
By Bus
If you’re on a budget, take the bus – companies such as FlixBus traverse the highway between Milan and Parma in about an hour and 45 minutes.
Parma insider tip: the centro storico is pedestrianized and foreign vehicles are prohibited. Upon arrival, either walking or cycling is the best way to get around. In the driver’s seat? Watch out for resident-only parking areas and be aware of local parking regulations.
Parma Italy Map
Parma’s city layout is kind of cool because you have the historic center and then all the little districts around, each with its own feel.
Centro Storico
The historic center or Centro Storico of the city of Parma in northern Italy is a lovely area with narrow medieval streets, squares and buildings from the Renaissance and Baroque periods; it is the home of the city’s cathedral and the neighboring Baptistery, and much of it is pedestrianized, making it a great place to stroll around.
Oltretorrente
And then there’s Oltretorrente, which literally means ‘beyond the torrent’ (‘oltre’ means ‘beyond’ and ‘torrente’ means ‘torrent’), south of the River Parma. This is a university town, with a youthful vibe and the right combination of homes, shops and bars to make it both a student and yuppie favorite.
Cittadella
A couple of kilometers north of the historic center, you reach the district of Cittadella, so called for a huge 16th-century pentagonal fortress that now surrounds a large park, which is excellent for running, as well as for the many cultural events held there.
San Leonardo
San Leonardo is the other side of town, with a lot more shops and a more commercial feel, including the main train station, so it’s always busy.
Barriera Bixio and Crocetta
To the northeast, Barriera Bixio and Crocetta offer a more residential vibe with more modern apartment buildings and a lot of schools – great for a quiet, suburban feel.
Montanara
Then there’s Montanara to the east of the center, which is very quiet and family-friendly, especially because it has a lot of parks. It’s a good place to retreat from the city noise.
Key Areas and Districts
Piazza Garibaldi
Piazza Garibaldi is the central square, literally in the heart of the city and it’s where you catch the bus from, where you meet your friends. It’s totally the beating heart of the city. Its circle is surrounded by historic buildings and buzzing cafés.
Parco Ducale
Then there is Parco Ducale, a beautiful, sprawling park just next to the Palazzo Ducale in the historic center, the place to go to for a drink or a picnic on a sunny day.
Strada della Repubblica and Strada Farini
If you’re in the mood for shopping, the streets to head for are Strada della Repubblica and Strada Farini, which are full of high-end boutiques and big brand stores, as well as artisan food shops. It’s shopper’s heaven.
Via D’Azeglio
Finally, Via D’Azeglio is the hub for most of the museums and cultural institutions of Parma. If you’re an arts and culture fan, this is your destination.
Where to Stay in Parma
From austere to swank, Parma has digs to suit every wayfaring type.
For Families
The newbie and the history buff would do well to bunk in the very heart of Parma — specifically, in the Palazzo Della Rosa Prati, just steps from the dazzling Duomo and Baptistry. This old girl swings between upscale rooms and DIY accommodations, and offers something for everybody, from the budget-conscious to the splurge-prone.
Families or a gang of friends in search of a view and some extra elbow room should check out Le Tre Torri, which offers a penthouse and terrace with a bird’s-eye view of the city.
Luxury
If you want a little bit of luxury, stay at the Park Hotel Pacchiosi in the old quarter. It’s the queen bee here – Carrara marble on the floor, bespoke furniture, and the mod cons to match, all in an early 20th-century building. And the restaurant? Italian food at its best, and wines to go with it.
Escape
The best alternative to the frenzy is Antico Borgo Di Tabiano Castello, where you can be prince or princess of a castle-hotel set in the hills, ideal for lovers or anyone wanting to dip a toe into the Dolce Far Niente lifestyle while still being a short drive from Parma’s delights.
The Best Hotels in Parma, Italy
Upscale
If you’re in the mood for splurging, the 5-star Grand Hotel De La Ville looks enticing. It has stylish rooms, a good restaurant and bar, plus free WiFi, and is next door to La Galleria as well as having a great breakfast.
If you are looking for luxury, you can try Link124 Hotel, it is a 4-star hotel and very modernly designed. It located 1km from the city centre. Some facilities you can find here are fitness centre, free WiFi, and breakfast.
Mid-range
The Mercure Parma Stendhal is a good mid-range option. It’s in the historical center with classic charm and close to parts of the old Palazzo della Pilotta. Expect a comfortable stay offering a solid breakfast along with friendly service.
NH Parma is a solid moderate, just a short walk from the Parma Train Station, with a well-appointed restaurant and bar in-house, so very convenient for travelers.
Budget
Small budget? Ibis Styles Parma Toscanini is located on the River Parma and has stylish rooms with views of the city. It has a good breakfast and is well-placed for budget travelers.
Finally, there is the Hotel Brenta right in the middle of the city center with friendly staff, a good breakfast, basic but comfortable rooms with free Wifi and online reservations. It’s perfect for those on a budget.
Parma Italy Restaurants
In my opinion, these selections represent everything that Parma gourmet can offer, from haute cuisine to cheap eats.
La Forchetta: Very good service, great Italian food. For a special night.
Ai Due Platani: Located a little out of the center, this restaurant serves an elegant menu in a relaxed setting.
Ristorante La Filoma: Traditional dishes and a cosy atmosphere, right by the Duomo of Parma.
Osteria I Tre Porcellini: A small, warm restaurant with a menu that emphasizes regional products.
Salumeria Garibaldi: Great deli, lots of local produce and dishes, cheap as chips and particularly well-reviewed for meat and cheese platters.
Pepen: Famous for its unique sandwiches, ideal for a quick, tasty, and budget-friendly meal.
Things to Do in Parma, Italy
For anyone interested in history, culture and sightseeing, Parma, Italy, is one of the richest destinations possible.
Here's a bit about what you can find there:
Parma Cathedral and Baptistery are both gorgeous. The cathedral has some lovely Romanesque architecture, and the baptistery is a great mix of Romanesque and Gothic styles with fantastic frescoes by Correggio and others in the interior.
The Palazzo della Pilotta is a cultural quarter – home to the National Gallery, the Archaeological Museum and the stunning Teatro Farnese.
Then there’s the Camera di San Paolo, a small room in what used to be a convent, with some of Correggio’s loveliest frescoes; the neighboring Teatro Regio is a neoclassical theater that is the heart of Parma’s cultural life, and the local home of fine opera; and the church of San Giovanni Evangelista, just across from the cathedral, has more Correggios beside those of the duomo. But the most famous of all Parma’s sights is the Fontana.
When all the work starts to take its toll, Parco Ducale is the place to be. It is a huge, very well-preserved park that can be found right next to the Palazzo della Pilotta, where you can take it easy and just breathe in the quiet.
Parma Italy Weather
Winter
Winter in Parma lasts from December through February, and the mercury generally sinks to an average daily low of about 31°F in the coldest spells and sometimes swells to a brisk 50°F on the warmer days. January tends to hover in the low 37°F range with February a notch up to 40°F. Snow is a rarity but fog is a seasonal fixture and often the sky is overcast.
Spring
From March into May, Parma begins to shed the chill of winter. March temperatures hover in the mid-40s, comfortable up the peninsula but not for a fortress city on a plain. By April, the heat climbs a few degrees to a balmy 55°F, and by May, the warmth cracks open to a full 64°F. Sun jostles with shower as the days extend and the earth, with occasional help from only moderate rainfall, dries.
Summer
The heat comes out in full summer force between June and August, July in particular being the hottest month, averaging 75°F, June and August aren’t far behind at 72°F to 75°F respectively, as well as being drier months – perfect for sun-seeking tourists.
Fall
In autumn, temperatures decrease gently from September through to November, beginning at a mild 66°F in September, and dropping to 54°F by November. Clear days and rainy days are a mixed bag, with rain picking up as the days grow shorter.
In general, Parma’s average annual temperature is around 56°F, and on average there is about 44 inches of rainfall a year, fairly evenly distributed across the year, except for a relatively dry patch in summer.
Is Parma Worth Visiting in Italy?
Yes, of course, you must go to Parma! When I went I fell in love with that city, with its deep cultural roots and incredible food. The Parma Cathedral and its frescoes, the Baptistery. You really can’t go there without feeling ancient cultural roots. You are literally breathing history and it’s a feast to your eyes and your mind. But the food! To taste Parmigiano Reggiano and Prosciutto di Parma where it’s made. Of course! For the food alone, Parma is a must-see in Italy.
Is Parma Italy Safe?
When I was in Parma in Italy last month, I was struck by just how safe it felt. At night you walk the streets feeling a sense of security that is tangible. The atmosphere of the place, the open friendly nature of the people and the sense that everyone is willing to help you, is one that grounds you. The streets with their lights and the stillness created by the old stones of the historic buildings just adds layers of safety. Naturally, you have to be careful of course – it is a city.
How Many Days in Parma Italy?
I think three days is the ideal duration for visiting Parma, not too long, but long enough to appreciate the charms of this city of food and to satisfy your appetite for culture. Yes, Parma is an amazing place for food lovers; I spent my days visiting food markets, tasting Parmigiano Reggiano, and looking at art in the Parma Cathedral and other historical monuments, and ended each evening with an aperitivo and a cone of gelato. But I still wish I’d had one more day in Parma.
Final thoughts about visiting Parma, Italy
The shock of the beautiful, the shock of the essence of Parma is a wakeup upside your sleepy head. You feel the centuries pressing on you, you chew over millennia of human ingenuity and drama. Sure, it’s a place to look at in wonder, the Duomo, the Baptistery, the Romanesque cathedral of San Giovanni Evangelista.
But as you savor your food and wine you realize there’s a reason why a seemingly simple slice of ham or a piece of cheese is the product of work that the artisan cares about deeply; why Giuseppe Verdi literally poured his soul into every note; and why locals take their time to get it just right.
Here you learn that taking the time to make something that will last – that will hit you in the guts – collapses time under your feet. What Parma teaches us is that an active engagement with beauty and quality across the board can be a source of deep satisfaction and a way to engage with the world around us more fully.
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