Yet again, suspense writer Patricia Highsmith’s infamous 1955 protagonist comes back to the screen in a delectable new series. “Ripley” premiered on Netflix on April 4th, featuring everyone’s favorite Irishman, Andrew Scott. Similar to its source material, the series follows Tom Ripley as he weasels his way into the life of nepo baby Dickie Greenleaf (Johnny Flynn), who spends his mornings drinking Campari orange juice mimosas and his afternoons sunbathing with his girlfriend, Marge (Dakota Fanning). That carefree ease and laid-back confidence of those unbothered by money, like Dickie, is enough to kill for, or so Ripley thinks.
For nearly 70 years, Ripley’s very guilty, very red, very bloody fingertips have stained the hearts of many. But perhaps the most famous adaptation is the 1999 film, “The Talented Mr. Ripley,” starring Matt Damon, Jude Law, and Gwyneth Paltrow. “The Talented Mr. Ripley” brings the intoxicating pleasures of “La Dolce Vita” into full swing. Amidst the lavish linens and loafers, viewers are drawn into a world of privilege and intrigue.
Despite how clever and sophisticated Ripley (Damon) might look at the beginning of the film, dressed in Ivy League classics, he is still entirely out of place in the blazing heat of coastal Italy. Ripley is fitted in somber colors, brown brogues and khaki chinos, loosely accessorized with glasses and an ill-fitting corduroy jacket.
On the other hand, Dickie (Law), sports single-breasted navy jackets with gold cufflinks and bold ties. His outfits vary depending on location, but they exude his easy flare. Dickie’s apparel adds to his leisurely college graduate lifestyle, as he spends his father’s hefty inheritance on good food, good music, and good attire.
Dickie makes clothes “look like they were just part of his life, not something he thought about,” says Ann Roth, costume designer for “The Talented Mr. Ripley.” His style is the epitome of the coastal grandchild aesthetic, which represents the younger, more carefree family member who embraces the easygoing approach to life by the sea. Every aspect of Dickie Greenleaf is tailored to be Riviera Chic. In Mongibello, he wears linen shirts and vintage Italian knits, complete with white canvas sneakers. His clothes reflect the sprezzatura of someone who has grown up with money.
Both Dickie and Ripley’s wardrobe highlights the contrast between their characters, revealing the disparity in their upbringing. As Ripley becomes infatuated with Dickie, he eventually kills him to become him. Ripley departs from the murder scene and heads back to the hotel, where we catch him wrapped in Dickie’s jacket, already immersing himself in the sophisticated lifestyle he desires.
By that point, Dickie has already taught Ripley the four secrets to adopting his style persona.
Embrace Italian sartorial tradition
Invest in well-crafted, tailored pieces that accentuate your silhouette and showcase their quality of workmanship. Well-off Dickie boy suggests getting suits from Battistoni in Rome. But please, leave any worn-out corduroy jackets at home. In Italy, the weather is hot, and the tides are high.
Master the art of casual elegance
Knit polos with just the right number of buttons undone. Rolled-up linen shirts. Relaxed blazers (single or double-breasted) over a crisp white top. Light cashmere cardigans for the evenings. And those of elegant grace will wear vintage Dior, while drinking red wine and eating pasta pomodoro.
Experiment with color and patterns
Blazers don’t have to be the typical school blue. Brighter shades, such as salmon or Aperol red, can lead to bursts of summer vibrance. Late nights at jazz bars are the place for stripes, loose bandanas, and porkpie hats. If the need arises, make an entrance with an animal print jacket—leopard is always in.
Invest in timeless accessories
Statement pieces are what bring the earth-toned neutrals of the coastal grandchild together. Now is the time to splurge on a bigger, more expensive watch. Quality reigns supreme with vintage Rolex. Consider pairing your timepiece with understated bracelets. Shine should come from slicked-back hair and gold jewelry. The best accessories, however, are “a nice tan, a smile, and good manners,” according to menswear expert Chris Modoo.
At the end of the day, the coastal grandchild is defined by a sense of untucked effortlessness, pulling fashionable pieces out of a closet without trying too hard. At first, Ripley, in all his pale awkwardness, seems the complete inverse of jet-setting Dickie. But soon the men become one in the same, both enviable pioneers of the coastal grandchild aesthetic.
Words by Natalia Hilsaca
Graphic by Eve Friday