Forget the stress of airport parking, long queues and separating your liquids, EVOKE discovered the joys of travelling by sea on our recent trip to the North of France.
Thoughts of ferry travel often come in the form of seasickness, windowless rooms and budget dining, but my journey from Cork to Roscoff with Brittany Ferries put all those preconceptions to bed.
Waking up in the lovely sea-side village of Roscoff after an evening spent enjoying a fantastic meal, fabulous cocktails and a comfortable night’s sleep, if you’re looking for a great start to your next holiday here’s why you should skip the airport and opt for hopping on board the ferry instead.
The Rooms
Following a train ride from Heuston to Cork City and a quick taxi to the harbour, the process of checking into the Pont-Aven, Brittany Ferries’ flagship cruise, couldn’t have been simpler compared to the chaos I’m used to when catching a flight.
Shortly after showing our passports, we headed to the Commodore Suites to get settled. The rooms were spacious and bright and featured a balcony to soak in the views as we waved Ireland goodbye – a far cry from the cramped, tiny cabins that many imagine when thinking of a ferry’s sleeping quarters. Setting sail while enjoying a complimentary box of macarons was the best way to kick off our French adventure on a magnifique note.
The Ship
First up on our agenda on the 16-hour overnight journey was a meeting with the Captain where we were invited to get a behind-the-scenes look at what went into navigating such a huge vessel and, after blindly volunteering, I got the chance to press the button that sounded the ship’s fog horn – now that’s something you don’t get to do every day!
With plenty of brilliant amenities on board including three bars, two restaurants, a kid’s club, a cinema and a pool that opens from May to September, our next stop was Pont-Aven’s on-board spa which is the perfect spot to unwind with the girls.
They offer manicures, pedicures, facials and a whole assortment of self-care must-trys.
We enjoyed a massage before heading over to Le Grand Pavois bar for a quick Aperol Spritz pitstop.
Having forgotten a French plug adaptor, I was able to easily pick one up at La Boutique, the well-stocked shop that stocks everything from fine wines and spirits to leather bags and designer sunglasses.
Helping to point me in the right direction, all the staff on the Pont-Aven were very friendly and spoke both English and French.
The Food
With two restaurants to choose from including a self-service option La Belle Angéle, we made our way to Le Flora for a three-course meal.
Starting the evening with a selection of picky bits including charcuterie, smoked salmon and cheeses chosen from the buffet, I ordered the pork which was served with baby potatoes and a side salad garnished with edible flowers.
After the main course, I chose chocolate mousse from the dessert buffet, featuring a huge bowl of rum babas, fruit tarts and pretty French pastries.
In an extra luxurious touch, I woke up to a continental breakfast complete with croissants and pain-au-chocolats which was delivered to my room before landing at Roscoff – what a perfect way to start a busy day full of sightseeing.
Things To Do
On day one, we started with a two-hour drive to Pont-Aven, the gorgeous French village that inspired the name of the Brittany Ferries ship we had arrived on that morning.
During our guided tour of the historic town known as the ‘Cité des Peintres’ we learned how the beautiful rivers attracted famous artists such as Paul Gaugin and Claude Monet and the whole place really did feel straight out of a painting – added to all the more by people sketching on the water’s edge.
Somehow getting a sunburn on our short stint outdoors, which let all the locals know I was a tourist, we then tapped into our inner artists at the Pont-Aven museum where we learned more about the history of the area.
After a twenty-minute drive, we then landed at the coast in Pointe de Tévignon. Following a scenic seaside walk and a delicious seafood lunch at Restaurant Le Casier, we headed to an oyster farm to try one of these local delicacies – unfortunately, nova virus had impacted the supply so we just had to settle for prawns and white wine by the water instead!
We finished the day off with a visit to the thatched village of Le Hénan before dining in the phenomenal restaurant of our boutique hotel La Pension du Moulin back in Pont-Aven – one particular highlight was the amazing elderflower wine.
With no rest for the wicked, we were up and out by 9 o'clock the next morning for a trip to La Vallée des Saints in Carnoet, an epic outdoor site filled with huge stone-carved statues complete with an appearance of our own St. Patrick no less.
It was uncanny how similar the Irish landscape is to the countryside in this part of France – although I’m sure their fields get plenty more sun.
Morlaix was the village of the day and boasted amazing sceneries, quaint French bistros and picture-perfect cobbled streets – somewhere you could get lost exploring for hours.
To get a great birds-eye view, make sure to climb to the top of the towering viaduct which has incredible views.
What better way to spend a sunny afternoon than a touch of apple cider tasting at CozMezou where we were able to sample mouthwatering ciders ranging from dry to super sweet.
We weren’t stopping as next up was a visit to a local beer farm where more sampling was on the menu – pale ales, stouts, IPAs and even more cider!
That night I finally got my oyster at the rustic L’Ecume des Jours restaurant after making our return to our original landing point of Roscoff.
Before hopping back on the ferry at Roscoff on our final day, we met a seaweed harvester at Algoplus, a relatively new industry to this part of France.
Seaweed treats were on the menu including sea spaghetti, dulse sprinkled caramel and a tasty selection of other salty delights.
One thing I really appreciated about getting the ferry over was there were no luggage weight limits to think about or bag size stressing – which played a huge role in me returning with about three extra bags filled with souvenirs, a bottle of Lambig, an apple brandy I picked up at the cider farm, seaweed face masks and a huge tin of galettes Bretons – a regional, and very tasty type of biscuit.
Once again returning to the idyllic French countryside, a meeting with Éric Quéméner, who’s father was a Johnny or a Roscoff onion farmer, on his farm Maison Quéméner was next up on the cards.
Following a quick how-to from Éric, I then tried my hand at some onion braiding before we were sent home with the best souvenir possible – a bunch of pink Roscoff onions braided to perfection!
Spending the afternoon in Carantec, we enjoyed a glass of red wine with our delicious lunch at La Table de Ty Potes (when in Rome) and afterward got our steps in while taking in the views of the coast.
If you’ve not considered getting the ferry before, I would definitely recommend checking out the Pont-Aven – it really sets the bar for traveling by sea.
Before even arriving at our final destination, it felt as though the holiday had already been in full swing - I mean what other form of transport includes cocktails, a fantastic three-course meal and a restful night sleep in luxurious surroundings?
Prices in May start from €246 each way for a car and two passengers on selected overnight journeys from Cork to Roscoff and from €180 for two people travelling without a car.
Find more information about travelling from Cork to Roscoff with Brittany Ferries here and for more things to do while you're there check out Brittany Tourism here.
