I clicked the link on an ad, here, and these sound like a pretty cost effective solution, to the trashy sound from the factory set up. Does anyone have any experience with these?

It looks like I could bypass my Bose amp and hook these directly to a new head unit?

I am looking to install a cheap new head unit from Crutchfield, to add Bluetooth for the phone, and play digital music files. The theory is to run the head unit through the Bose amp, for now (according to Critchfield's web-site, this should work), and later replace the crappy Bose 1 ohm speakers, add some Dynamat, and connect these directly to the head unit.

Has anyone tried this? Is bypassing the Bose amp, fairly simple? Is this just a bad idea, in the first place?

They should work plenty well. The spec sheet is MUCH better than most.
Speaker rated impedance: 4 ohms
Power Handling: 60 watts RMS
Frequency Response: 50 - 20,000 Hz, +-5dB
Sensitivity: 88dB @1W/1m
Free Air Resonance: 54Hz
Vas: .879 ft^3
Qts: .686
Sd: 20.187 in^2
Assembled in the U.S. with U.S. and foreign components

Qts is close enough to the ideal .707 for a free air woofer to expect good bass response. The Spec'd +/- 5 dB is quite good for a car speaker. Anticipating the typical bright response curve for car speakers (to compensate for the soft interior), means the response at 50 Hz won't be all that far down. Possibly a good choice.

However, you should expect, at least, the Blose amp to have built in electronic crossovers and very likely built-in EQ, including criminally high bass boost. PAC makes an amp adapter to simplify adding another amp and removing the Blose amp.
https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalo...cing/aoem-maz2

If cash flow was the issue, I'd work backwards; speakers and amp, then head unit. The OEM radio is not that bad. Don't be too cheap and ask specifically what the head unit display will look like in direct sun.

Perhaps you can use a bluetooth adapter in the OEM aux input.
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Ada.../dp/B06XQF969K

Wow. Thanks, Colt. Great info!