Duration: 66 days
Busselton
Oh my gosh what a great town, we fell in love with Busselton, and if we could pick it up and transport it to South Australia this is exactly the place, we would look to purchase a property when we move back on land. The town met all our needs … seaside location with a lovely foreshore, activities for all ages and shark safe swimming area; a thriving town centre with key services and lots of interesting shops, plus all the major chains as well; cafés, pubs and restaurants; easy to navigate; and key tourist spots a reasonable driving distance from town. Only one hiccup being the lack of public transport which is limited to buses with a very limited timetable.
After settling into the marina and cleaning the boat inside and out the day after our arrival, it was time to explore. Like a number of marinas this one is located a bit of a ways out of town, and given it was late in the afternoon we headed north on foot along a pathway which ran northward and parallel to Geographe Bay. The beach was pristine, the weather ideal and we walked through the shallows on our return. Next day was our first trip into town and it was a bit of a hoof. Walking about an hour from the marina to the nearest bus stop to catch a bus that only comes three times a day. We didn’t have a SmartRider card required for public transport at this stage, and as the bus driver had no cash on hand to give us change, we got a free ride into town. He also gave us directions to the bus depot where we could each purchase a card for $10.00*, cash only. (NB SmartRider cards can be purchased at designated newsagencies in larger towns/cities and cities and at train stations. Additionally, while Centrelink concession cards are okay, interstate senior card holders must apply for a discount fare rate using a specific form which takes time to process. As we don’t have a concession card, and we were moving on and had no fixed address we didn’t bother pursuing the senior card application either). After a 30 minute walk each way to the bus depot, some shopping, lunch and a walk around town we were ready to head back to the marina but our timing wasn’t great with a forty minute wait for the bus to arrive. By this stage it was early afternoon and about 35°C and following another long walk back to the marina we were hot, tired, sweaty and sore!
Our experience yesterday spurred us to bite the bullet and purchase two NCM Paris ebikes online. We had investigated doing so prior to leaving Adelaide but time just got away from us. But yesterday proved how valuable they would have been. They should arrive in a week’s time. In the meantime Peter hired an escooter ($20.00*) to get around for the things he needed; we used the bus or caught a taxi into town ($20-25.00* one way for a taxi).
So the freezer … the whole point of being in Busselton turned out to be a bit of a dud. We contacted the refrigeration mechanic in town by telephone and were told that ‘they don’t service or fix this brand of freezer anymore. And no, the boss wouldn’t make an exception this time’. Ugh! Another internet search identified the closest mechanic in Rockingham, about a two hour drive away. On ringing, Peter got a positive response, we just had to get it there. Two days later and with the freezer loaded into the back of a hired delivery van we drove north along the main highway towards Perth before turning off at the Kiwana Highway to wind our way through the streets of Rockingham and dropped off the freezer. As the van wasn’t due to be returned until tomorrow morning, we squeezed in a grocery shop as well.
The next couple of days were spent at the marina, and then the ebikes arrived. Peter got them both set up, and the next day we were off. As with most things Peter got back into bike riding as though he had never stopped, Sandra less so, a bit nervous and a bit wonky. The whole watching for cars, pedestrians, dogs; managing gears and speed; together with up and down bike paths and foot paths was initially all a bit much. And then came the first crunch, as Sandra came off the footpath into some soft sand and over she went. A few minor grazes and bruises but no major injuries thank goodness.
We cycled each day and found new routes to get into town, our favourite was a bike path south of the marina which hugged the coast and took us straight into the main beach-jetty area. (The path continued on, and you could get to Dunsborough and beyond if you wanted to). Sometimes we went in for a swim in the shark proof area, grabbed an ice cream or a coffee at a café, or with backpacks on we were able to get groceries for about two days.
Two weeks into our stay we got a call that the freezer was fixed and ready for pick up. So once again we hired a SUV and made the four hour return trip to Rockingham. We also took the opportunity to shop for some of the larger and heavier groceries that were difficult to carry in our back packs.
This trip is not just about getting from A to B, but enjoying the journey along the way as well. When there is an opportunity to engage in an experience and/or further explore a town or region we try our best to do so. One such experience was the Busselton Jetty Train & Observatory Experience. We chose to do this on the Saturday before we departed, unfortunately it wasn’t great timing. The Coral Princess cruise ship was anchored in Geographe Bay so we knew the jetty and town would be busy. Undeterred we cycled to the tourist office at the entrance to the jetty and booked our place in the 3.00pm timeslot. Quick top up shop then back to the boat for lunch. Then back to the jetty at our allotted time. The train was cute and everyone inside and out were in good spirits, waving and high fiving as we trundled along to the observatory aquarium (likened to a very large tube which descends beneath sea level). Entering the aquarium at the top level (gift shop and café), we met our tour guide who provided a historical overview of the jetty and the aquarium. We descended the aquarium via a concrete spiral staircase (four levels in all), at each level the tour guide provided some information about the fish, coral and plant life. It was really great, lots of different fish types, plant life attached to the jetty pylons, and would you believe some scuba divers swimming pass. Once we exited via the top level we had the choice of returning to the foreshore via the train or walking. Peter and I chose the 1.8km walk along the jetty before cycling back to the marina.
A couple of days later and booking a hire car we ventured south along the Busselton Highway via Vasse; the town of Carbunup River (blink and you will miss it), Cowaramup (with fibreglass cows and calves dotted along the main street) to our first stop the township of Margaret River. I guess we were surprised that there weren’t as many vineyards as we had anticipated, and wineries were congregated in the coastal area between Gracetown and Yallingup. Given we have visited numerous wineries in South Australia stopping at wineries here was not the focus of our trip today. As for the township of Margaret River, we found it to be very touristy (no surprise there) – boutiques, surf shops, cafes etc. From here we headed to a lovely small town called Witchcliffe, and there were lots of references and models of witches to be seen throughout the cafes and shops. With the road hugging the coastline we drove through Augusta to our next stop Cape Leeuwin lighthouse.
The lighthouse and surrounds are well kept, $12.00* each (senior rate) for entry ($19.00* each if you want to include a tour of the inner lighthouse). We weren’t fussed on the tour opting to do our own thing – visiting the Lightkeeper’s Cottage with lots of interesting memorabilia and information to read. Then onto the lighthouse itself which is grand in stature, and a landing which overlooks the meeting of the Southern and Indian Oceans. An Anzac memorial commemorates naval seaman lost from HMAS Nazim as well as lighthouse keepers and staff.
We ate lunch at Hardy Inlet which is fed by both fresh water from the land and sea water from the Southern Ocean. From here heading north and closer to the west coast we made way for three caves – Jewel, Lake and Mammoth Caves. Cost of entry even for seniors we felt was high $22.00* each (senior rate) at Jewel, $28.00* each (senior rate) at both Lake and Mammoth Caves. Given the cost and time of day we gave them a miss, opting to visit Ngilgi Cave tomorrow.
Next a coastal town called Prevelly which was awe inspiring, highlighting the strength and power of the sea. A huge swell was running, with two kitesurfers and a windsurfer showing us their skill as they darted and weaved to catch the next huge wave. And to think this swell most likely started in Africa!! Then onto Gracetown and specifically Cowaramup Bay where it was the surfers turn to impress us before returning to Busselton for the night.
Next day we headed northwest along Busselton Highway passing through Dunsborough then via Caves Road to our first stop Castle Rock. Making our way along a gravel trail to a tall, broad striated rock on the shoreline surrounded by other rocks both under and above sea level. Gorgeous bay with crystal clear water. Then following a quick stop at Point Piquet and Garret Rock to Cape Naturaliste lighthouse. Entrance was free as the lighthouse was undergoing maintenance and fenced off but we could walk as far as the fence and take photos. Sugarloaf Rock was next on the agenda, once again an amazing rock edifice on the edge of the ocean. Then came the highlight of the day Ngilgi Ancient Lands Experience ($30.00 each entrance fee with seniors discount). Initially we walked via a winding path to ‘stations’ where we learnt how the caves were formed, about the indigenous significance of the caves and area, and the discovery of the caves by European settlers. Then we descended into the cave itself, just exceptional. Two chambers filled with stalactites and stalagmites in various shapes and sizes from the floor, the roof, the sides. We loved every minute.
Our last stop was Canal Rocks and amazing rock formation stretching out to sea with rock pools on the landside from sea water pouring over the top. What a fabulous two days, Western Australia has just blown us away and to think there is so much more to discover as we continue to travel north. For our review of Port Geographe Marina click here https://seagoddessadventures.com/port-geographe-marina/
**Naturaliste and Geographe are names of ships that came to this area by initial explorers.
Bunbury
After a 6 ½ hour motor sail, and with little wind and dodging crab pots, we anchored in Koombana Bay Bunbury, in front of the impressive Dolphin Centre building. To the left of the Centre is a commercial wharf with a steady stream of ships entering and leaving, to the right the Bunbury Sailing Club; Department of Transport Marina and town centre. As is our usual practice on arrival we opened all the hatches to allow air flow throughout the cabins and saloon, imagine our dismay when we woke up the next morning only to find all boat surfaces, inside and out, covered in a layer of dark brown gritty dust. Courtesy of the commercial harbour, it was the last thing we wanted or needed; and it’s going to take a lot more than a couple of hours to clean. (But bit by bit, area by area we got it sorted over the next week ) Hatches now fully closed!!
Each morning we were also entertained by groups of tourists who entered the water to about thigh height to hand feed a pod of dolphins (obviously a regular occurrence as the same thing happened the next day at the same time). Similarly, each morning a tourist boat arrived to take people out for a ‘dolphin experience’ which included the opportunity to swim with dolphins. Something we may consider doing later in our trip if the opportunity arises.
Peter also contacted the Vice Commodore of the Koombana Bay Sailing Club to ask if we could dock our dinghy at the club. He received a very positive response including an invitation to use the club’s bathroom facilities, bar and restaurant. Just another great example of the camaraderie and helpfulness of the sailing community. After leaving the dinghy at the club, we walked around the town centre and park, then topping up on fresh fruit and milk at the local supermarket before returning to the boat. For specific information regarding this anchorage click here https://seagoddessadventures.com/bunbury-anchorage/
Mandurah
The ten hour sail from Bunbury to Mandurah was dogged by fickle winds, 17knots in the morning dropping down to 10 knots in the afternoon. The winds also brought a distinctive smoke haze across our route due to a land-based fire behind Preston Beach area. Arriving at Comet Bay, Mandurah we were lucky to secure a 72 hour Department of Transport courtesy mooring. We were just about to start our post sail checks and activities when a large power boat pulled up to the mooring next to us towing a sunken yacht! Honestly, it was surreal and not something we have seen before. The only reason we knew it was towing a yacht was that part of the mast was protruding out of the water.
Then things got interesting, as over the next couple of hours until sunset a diver and the salvage crew worked to put in place large yellow flotation cells which were then aerated. By sunset the stern and the starboard side of the yacht were out of the water, but they were obviously having difficulty raising the bow. The boat remained in place overnight, with the diver and salvage team returning early the next morning to resume their efforts. They managed to slightly raise the yacht further then they towed it in a partially submerged state through the bay, then the breakwater to the marina for an emergency lift out. The salvage team then went back out to recover the keel which was also lifted out the same day. (Turns out the yacht had lost its keel earlier in the week, but we don’t know the circumstances which led to this). Wow, not something you see every day or want to see, and our thoughts went out to the owner/s.
We didn’t go ashore at Mandurah, spending the time ‘continuing to clean up Bunbury dust’ and doing some boat maintenance. Click here for more information re moorings at Mandurah https://seagoddessadventures.com/mandurah-mooring/
Rockingham
With minimal wind we had to motor sail up the coast from Mandurah to Rockingham, six hours in all. The journey required us to split two vertical reefs, one close to shore and an outer reef, with crab pots scattered here and there adding to the mix. Unfortunately, we were unable to take a short cut to Rockingham by sailing under the Garden Island Causeway (11.9metres), a bridge from the Western Australian mainland to the naval base on Garden Island, due to the height of our mast (23 metres). So, it was the long way around the island for us adding another 1 ½ – 2 hours to the journey. Lots of reefs on the west and north side of the island, also areas of depth below 5 metres which impacted on our course. On the east (naval) side of the island two naval ships and a sea and rescue boat were moored whilst cargo ships were anchored close to the commercial harbour on the mainland side. A tugboat went roaring passed leaving a huge wake behind (not impressed) plus a number of pleasure craft were out and about …. it was busy!
The mooring area was easy to spot, but finding our designated mooring ball was like trying to find a needle in a haystack – eeny, meeny, miney, moe . I suggested to Peter we just take one, any one that was free. But Peter was determined we would find C1. After a couple of rounds of what looked like some sort of minefield, we finally found it and settled into what will be a 2 week stay here. Lovely outlook with gorgeous beach lining the large horseshoe bay which sweeps from the causeway bridge all the way round to the commercial wharf. Jetty, bridge and Garden Island to our right, another jetty, sailing club, cafes, restaurants and foreshore grassed areas and playgrounds to our right with the main town behind. Click here for more information re moorings at Rockingham https://seagoddessadventures.com/rockingham-mooring/
Next day we took the dinghy to the main jetty, then walked from here around the town to get our bearings and some badly needed food supplies. (We had been here before to drop off and pick up the freezer but that was quite a distance away from our current location). Google maps has been pretty good thus far, and we found the local shopping centre with no issues. Back to the marina by taxi with bags of food ($14.00 fare for those who may be interested). Back on board we both got tizzied up (well as much as you can when you have to climb on and off a dinghy and traverse choppy sea water) for our wedding anniversary dinner. Went to the Cruising Yacht Club on the sea front where we had a lovely meal, and we were entertained by a great singer.
A trip to Fremantle was on our bucket list of things to do and we were advised by transit staff to travel by bus. It was a long trip from Rockingham much of it through the outer suburbs, but we finally got there. Peter needed to purchase a replacement mobile phone, so we placed an order and will be notified when it arrives. Then we walked along the road which runs parallel to the docks and train line to the Western Australian Maritime Museum. Gorgeous old buildings from the 1800’s lined the left side of the road, most had been carefully renovated and were still in use though not for their original purpose. Arriving at the museum we purchased tickets for the James Cameron Challenging the Deep Exhibition and the general maritime museum area (senior rate of $35.00* for both of us, cheering!!). The exhibition was both educational and entertaining with movies of completed deep dives to the Titanic passenger ship, Bismarck war ship and others off the American coastline. There were costumes and props that had been used in some of his movies including The Abyss, as well as cameras used on the dives. Next was a wander through the general maritime museum. The highlight of this section was seeing the ridgy didge Australia II with its keel intact on display. (This photo does not do justice to the size of the boat in real life).
We walked along the dock area back to the railway station, passing the Rottnest Island tourist boats; a tall ship named the Leeuwin II (similar to the One and All in Adelaide); as well as market stalls, bars and cafes set up in the old dock sheds. Caught the bus, train, bus back to Rockingham jetty in a slightly shorter timeframe than the way there but not by much. We’ll get the train to Perth then out to Freo next time, will be quicker and less mucking about.
Easter Monday and the foreshore was alive and rocking with a huge Irish Festival, as well as food and craft stalls of all kinds. And we enjoyed walking along the foreshore, mingling with the crowd and watching the concert on stage.The photo below is part of the re-enactment of Irish citizens landing in Western Australia.
A couple of days later we were back in Freo to pick up Peter new phone. We caught the bus a short walk from the dinghy dock to the transit station and picked up a train into Perth then another to Fremantle. Honestly, we are getting out and about like locals Back to Perth where we spent some time strolling Hastings Mall and the CBD. A couple of days later we were back in Perth making our way to scenic Kings Park where we spent the morning taking in the views over Perth and Swan River; visiting the State War Memorial cenotaph such a beautiful setting with the Flame of Remembrance and Pool of Reflection in the foreground; strolling through the varied gardens dedicated to the differing regions and climates of this vast state. Then it was a long walk back into town to Government House, the Supreme Court building, Perth Mint and the popular Elizabeth Quay area – about 15,000 steps in all, phew! And yes, our feet were a tad sore.
Luckily the next few days were quieter with locally based activities, cleaning the boat inside and out and passage planning for our trip north. We enjoyed our stay in Rockingham, lovely beaches and parks with easy access to restaurants, cafes, shops and services and excellent public transport options.
Rottnest
Following a steady motor-sail passing Garden Island once more we headed slightly north-west to reach Rotto, as the locals like to say, early in the afternoon. From our mooring we could easily see the main jetty on our right, and from the number of people onshore that looked like the place we needed to be. So we beached our dinghy next to a number of others just a stone’s throw to the local hotel, perfect! Lots of people enjoying the sunshine, piped music, wine and beer. Kids swimming and paddling in the water, and bikes. Bikes of every size and type, some with those little carriers for kids to sit in, and as we walked to the Information Centre there were hundreds of them lined up and available for hire. Spoke with Centre staff about options for getting around …. hired bikes obviously, an island loop hop on hop off bus stopping at major attractions was available for a daily rate of $30.00 each but we decided to give both those options a miss and stick with walking. (You might be wondering why we didn’t bring our ebikes to the island. After trying various lifting options, they are just too awkward to get on and off the dinghy from the transom. And we were worried that any misstep could cause one or both to end up water).
We reckoned we could get at least a couple of hours walk in that afternoon so grabbing some maps we headed northwest along a road with tourist shops and eateries on one side and what used to be a prison for approximately 3,000 indigenous men and boys on the other. The buildings, chapel and quadrangle were undergoing renovations whilst we were there, all very European/British in design. We couldn’t help but wonder what conditions would have been like in the late 1800’s early 1900’s for these men and boys, and to be so isolated and disconnected from their families and communities would have been just dreadful. On we walked to Lomas Cottage (see below), now a museum for children which was closed, and spotted our first quokka just sitting by itself sleeping in the open under a tree. Not the only one we would see as continued onwards, and despite the regular signs ‘Don’t Disturb, Don’t Touch, Don’t Feed the quokkas’, they often approached people and/or weren’t fussed about being approached. Obviously the quokkas didn’t get the message!
The road continued, with the shops and old buildings giving way to lots and lots of holiday accommodation on either side. It was a perfect day so heaps of people were out and about. A short time later we arrived at Bathurst Lighthouse set upon a rise with a 360° reach across the island, mainland and Indian Ocean. To the left of the lighthouse was Pinky Beach, with lots of people taking advantage of the beautiful beach and protected bay. The road ended here so we backtracked towards the dinghy and Sea Goddess for a wine, dinner and to plan tomorrow’s walk.
Next morning, we headed left this time taking the dinghy to the beach adjacent to Amity Groyne. As a bonus we watched a number of tandem skydivers safely land on Amity Beach, so cool. Then using one of the tourist maps we followed a road to the disused Kingstown Railway Station and Kingstown Barracks which are now used for backpackers accommodation. From here we followed an unmarked trail to the coast with great views over Thomson Bay, then another to abandoned and derelict military buildings from World War II – Observatory Point. Paterson’s Beach was next with gorgeous rock formations, similarly Henrietta Rocks where a pod of dolphins were having a feed out in Porpoise Bay. At this point the weather was looking ominous, thunderstorm clouds rolling in, some lightening and rain in the distance but possibly headed our way. So we hoofed it back to the groyne and shelter shed for a rest before taking the dinghy back to the boat. Just as we were about to leave we were joined by a curious quokka, not shy or nervous at all and very interested in Peter’s backpack (no doubt looking or hoping for some food). Got up and very close, so gorgeous. Back at the dinghy Peter noticed and removed a wad of fishing line from the propeller, that and crab pots are the bane of our life. Back on the boat, sitting in the cockpit having a wine when the ‘Rottnest Rangers’ came around in their rib checking that moored boats had paid up. Moving on to Two Rocks tomorrow where we will finalise our plans, provisions and checks before heading for the Kimberlies. Click here for more information about mooring at Rottnest Island https://seagoddessadventures.com/rottnest-island-mooring/
Two Rocks
After a roly poly night thanks to the remnants of Cyclone Olga, we left Rottnest Island around 0815. Not a lot of wind so we motor sailed up the coast, dodging crab pots as we went. Closer to Two Rocks we could see new housing developments emerging along the coastline. This area has recently been designated for the building and establishment of a new industrial hub by the Western Australian state government, so the housing expansion is no doubt going to be welcomed.
Currently, Two Rocks is a small town servicing the local community with an IGA supermarket; health services including a GP, physio, dentist and chemist; bar and bistro; opp shop; post office and the like. A public bus links the town to a major shopping strip at Yanchep and the Butler railway station as well. Here there are direct train services to Perth and surrounding locations, and to Mandurah in the south. The name Two Rocks is literally derived from two large rocks situated on the shore near the town and marina (you can just make out the second one on the left of this photo).
Behind the shopping centre is a series of rock sculptures – the one of King Neptune and his trident looking out to sea is particularly impressive. It was fenced off while we were there, not sure why but we managed to get a photo anyway.
Our main purpose for stopping at Two Rocks was to have a safe and secure place to leave Sea Goddess while we headed back to Adelaide for a family catch up. The trip to the airport was seamless – bus from Two Rocks to Butler Railway Station, train to Perth where we transferred to the High Wycombe line for the airport station, then dedicated shuttle bus to the airport. The eight day trip was everything we had hoped for and we loved every minute, spending time with the people we love and who love us right back. Back on board we started prepping for the trip north by filling the fuel tanks and jerry cans; washing; menu prepping for 10 weeks and completing our first ever online shop. This provision order was massive and should see us through to Darwin. Two days later the food order arrived, and we spent nearly three hours checking the delivery, packing the fridge and freezer, and finding spots for all the other stuff. It was also Peter’s birthday so with that and being our last night before moving north we treated ourselves to a yummy meal at the local bistro. Click here for information about the marina at Two Rocks https://seagoddessadventures.com/two-rocks-marina/
From here we continue our sailing journey northwards towards Broome and the Kimberlies.