Nepal

Location
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Quick Facts
Capital	Kathmandu
Government	Republic. Monarchy was dissolved by Constituent Assembly on 28 May 2008.
Currency	Nepalese rupee (NPR)
Area	147,181km² water: 3,830km² land: 147,516km²
Population	29.14 million
Language	Nepali (official; spoken by 90% of the population), about a dozen other languages and about 30 major dialects; many in government and business also speak English
Religion	Hinduism 81.3%, Buddhism 9%, Islam 4.4%, Kirat 3.1% other 2.2%
Country code	+977
Internet TLD	.np
Time Zone	UTC+5:45
Emergencies	dial 100 for police       101 for fire       102 for medical

Nepal is an independent country in Southern Asia, between the Tibet autonomous region of China and India. It contains 8 of the world's 10 highest peaks, including Mount Everest - the world's highest- on the border with Tibet, and Lumbini, the birthplace of Gautama Buddha, the founder of Buddhism.

A monarchy for hundreds of years, Nepal was declared a republic in June 2008. Hinduism and Buddhism co-exist here peacefully. Mt. Everest, Pashupatinath, Lumbini, Boudhanath, Janakpur Dham, and Chitwan National Park are some of the many attractions.

Understand

Geography

Visitors to Nepal generally associate the nation with snow-capped mountain peaks. While there are over 90 peaks that lie above 7000m (22,966 ft), approximately one-third of the country is low-lying and subtropical. The nation's altitude rises from less than 100 metres (328 ft) elevation in the tropical Terai (the northern rim of the Gangetic Plain) to Sagarmāthā (Mount Everest) - the world's highest mountain at 8,848m (29,029 ft).

Elevation Zones

Nepal has been divided into multiple elevation zones, south to north:

• Outer Terai - Level plains, a cultural and linguistic extension of northern India. Nepali is spoken less than Awadhi and Bhojpuri dialects related to Hindi and Maithili. Lumbini, Buddha's birthplace, Kapilvastu - Tilaurakot, the capital of the Shakya Kingdom and Janakpur, Sita's birthplace, Rajbiraj, Mandavi, Urmila and Shrutkirti's birthplace are in this zone. Other cities - Dhangadhi, Nepalgunj, Bhairawa, Butwal, Birgunj, Janakpur and Biratnagar - are transportation hubs and border towns more than travel destinations. Nevertheless, the Terai may offer opportunities for intimate exposure to traditional Indian culture that have become less available in India itself.

• Siwalik Range or Churia Hills - the outermost and lowest range of foothills, about 600m (2,000 ft) high. Extends across the country east to west but with significant gaps and many subranges. Poor soils and no agriculture to speak of. No developed tourist destinations, however, the forests are wild and the sparse population of primitive hunters and gatherers is unique.

• Inner Terai - large valleys between the Siwaliks and higher foothills to the north. The Dang and Deukhuri valleys in the Mid West are the largest, offering opportunities to experience Tharu art and culture. Chitwan south of Kathmandu is another of these valleys, known for Chitwan National Park where tigers, rhinos, crocodiles, deer and birds can be observed. Originally these valleys were malarial and lightly populated by Tharus who had evolved resistance and developed architectural and behavioral adaptations limiting exposure to the most dangerous nocturnal mosquitoes. Suppression of mosquitoes with DDT in the 1960s opened these valleys to settlers from the hills who cleared forests and displaced and exploited Tharus. Nevertheless, remoter parts of these valleys still have a Garden of Eden quality - forests broken by indefinite fields, lazy rivers, fascinating aboriginal peoples.

• Mahabharat Range - a prominent foothill range continuous across the country from east to west except for narrow transecting canyons, with elevations ascending up to 3,000m (10,000 ft). Steep southern slopes are a no-man's land between lowland and Pahari (hill) cultures and languages, which begin along the crest and gentler northern slopes. Given clear skies, there are panoramic views of high himalaya from almost anywhere on the crest. Underdeveloped as a tourist venue compared to India's 'Hill Stations', nevertheless Daman and Tansen are attractive destinations.

• Middle Hills - Valleys north of the Mahabharat Range and hills up to about 2,000m (6,500 ft). are mainly inhabited by Hindus of the Bahun (priestly brahmin) and Chhetri (warriors and rulers) castes who speak Nepali as their first language. Higher where it becomes too cold to grow rice, populations are largely Magar, Gurung, Tamang, Rai or Limbu, the hill tribes from which the British recruited Gurkha soldiers while the soldiers' families grew crops suited to temperate climates. Men in these ethnic groups also work as porters or may be herders moving their flocks into the high mountains in summer and the lower valleys in winter. Trekking through the hills is unremittingly scenic with streams and terraced fields, picturesque villages, a variety of ethnic groups with distinctive costumes, and views of the high Himalayas from high points.

• Valleys - Kathmandu and to the west Pokhara occupy large valleys in the hills. The Kathmandu Valley was urbanised long before the first Europeans reached the scene and has historic neighborhoods, temple complexes, pagodas, Buddhist stupas, palaces and bazaars. Its natives are predominantly Newar farmers, traders, craftsmen and civil servants. Newar culture is an interesting synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist elements. Unfortunately a range of hills north of this valley limit views of the Himalayas. Pokhara has fewer urban points of interest but outstanding views of the nearby Annapurna Himalaya. Pokhara's Newar population is confined to bazaars. Elsewhere upper caste Hindus dominate, whose ancestors probably were Khas peoples from far western Nepal. Both valleys offer excellent opportunities to experience Nepal without strenuous trekking. Narrower valleys along streams and rivers are important rice-growing centres in the hills. There is a limited amount of this land and most of it is owned by upper-caste Hindus.

• Lekhs - Snow occasionally falls and lasts days or weeks in the winter above 3,000m (10,000 ft), but melts away in summer below about 5,500m (18,000 ft). Treeline is about 4,000m (13,000 ft). This zone is used for summer pasturage but not year-round habitation.

• North of the lekhs, the snowy high Himalayas rise abruptly along a fault zone to peaks over 6,700m (22,000 ft) and even over 8,000m (26,000 ft). Himalaya means 'abode of snow', which is uninhabited. Valleys among the peaks are inhabited, especially along trade routes where rice from the lowlands was traded for salt from the Tibetan Plateau along with other goods. Trade has diminished since China annexed Tibet in the 1950s but catering to trekkers and climbers has become an economic engine. People living along these routes have Tibetan affinities but usually speak fluent Nepali.

• Trans-Himalaya - Peaks in this region north of the highest Himalayas in central and western Nepal are lower and gentler, mostly around 6,000m (20,000 ft). Valleys below 5,000m (17,000 ft). are inhabited by people who are essentially Tibetan and have adapted to living at much higher elevations than other Nepalis. Roads have not yet penetrated this far and travel is expensive by air or arduous on foot. Nevertheless, it is a unique opportunity to experience a very significant and attractive culture in spectacular surroundings.

River basins

River basins are also important geographic divisions. The Mahabharat Range is a major hydrologic barrier in Nepal and other parts of the Himalayas. South-flowing rivers converge in candelabra shapes to break through this range in a few narrow gorges. Travel is usually easier within these candelabra drainage systems than between them, so high divides between river systems became historically important political, linguistic and cultural boundaries.

Karnali-Seti-Bheri

The Karnali system in the far west is the birthplace of Pahari ('hill') culture. It was settled by people called Khas speaking an Indo-European language called Khaskura ('Khas talk') that was related to other north Indian languages, all claiming descent from classical Sanskrit.

East of the Karnali proper, along a major tributary called the Bheri and further east in another basin called the Rapti lived a Tibeto-Burman people called Kham. Khas and Kham people seem to have been allies and probably intermarried to create the synthesis of aryan and mongoloid features that especially characterizes the second-highest Chhetri (Kshatriya) caste. It appears that Khas kings recruited Kham men as guards and soldiers. Khas and Kham territories in the far west were subdivided into small kingdoms called the Baisi, literally '22' as they were counted.

Nepal has one of the world's highest birth rates because Hindu girls usually marry by their early teens, causing their entire reproductive potential to be utilized. Furthermore, men who can afford it often take multiple wives. This may trace back to Khas culture, explaining relentless Khas colonization eastward as finite amounts of land suitable for rice cultivation were inevitably outstripped by high birthrates.

Rapti and Gandaki

The Rapti river system east of the Karnali-Bheri had few lowlands suitable for growing rice and extensive highlands that were not attractive for Khas settlement but were a barrier to migration. However, the Rapti's upper tributaries rose somewhat south of the Himalayas. Between these tributaries and the Dhaulagiri range of the Himalayas, a large east-west valley called Dhorpatan branching off the upper Bheri provided a detour eastward, over an easy pass called Jaljala into the Gandaki river system further east. The Gandaki is said to have seven major tributaries, most rising in or beyond the high Himalaya. They merge to cut through the Mahabharat and Siwalik ranges. In this basin elevations were generally lower and rainfall was higher compared to the Karnali-Bheri and Rapti basins. There was great potential for rice cultivation, the agricultural base of the Khas way of life. A collection of small principalities called the Chaubisi developed. Chaubisi literally means '24', as these kingdoms were counted. Not all were Khas kingdoms. Some were Magar -- a large indigenous hill tribe people related to the Kham. Other kingdoms were Gurung and Tamang. Several Gandaki tributaries rose in the trans-Himalayan region where inhabitants and rulers became increasingly Tibetanized to the north.

• Emergence of Shah Dynasty from Gorkha

Within the Chaubisi kingdoms of the Gandaki basin, Gorkha was a small valley east of Pokhara ruled by a Khas family now called Shah, an honorific title that may have come later, however any earlier name seems to be forgotten. In 1743AD Prithvi Narayan Shah became the ruler of Gorkha after his father Nara Bhupal Shah died. Prithvi Narayan already had a reputation as a hotheaded upstart. Resolving to modernize Gorkha's army, he was bringing modern arms from India when customs officers demanded inspection and payment of duties. Prithvi Narayan refused and attacked the officers, killing several before escaping with his arms and men. He also visited Benares to study the situation of local rulers and the growing encroachment of British interests. Prithvi concluded that invasion was a chronic danger to rulers on the plains of northern India, whereas the hills were more defensible and offered more scope to carve out a lasting empire.

Kathmandu Valley (Bagmati)

Narrow winding road leads through extremely diverse terrain in Nepal. This road leads north from Kathmandu towards Tibet.

Prithvi Narayan must have been a charismatic figure, for he recruited, equipped and trained a formidable army and persuaded his subjects to underwrite all this from his ascension until his death in 1775. Through conquest and treaty, he consolidated several Chaubisi kingdoms. As his domain expanded, Khaskura became known as Gorkhali, i.e. the language of the Gorkha kingdom. Then he moved east into the next river basin, the Bagmati which drains the Kathmandu Valley that held three small but prosperous urban kingdoms. Like the Rapti, the Bagmati rises somewhat south of the Himalayas. Unlike the Rapti basin, this valley had once held a large lake and the remaining alluvial soil was exceptionally fertile. Between the agricultural abundance, local crafts, and extensive trade with Tibet, the cities were prosperous. Prithvi Narayan encircled the valley, cutting off trade and restricting ordinary activities, even farming and getting water. With a combination of stealth, brutality and intimidation he prevailed and deposed the local kings in 1769, making Kathmandu his new capital. This was the high point of Prithvi Narayan's career, however, he continued consolidating the Kathmandu Valley with the Chaubisi and Baisi federations to the west until his death in 1775. Gorkhali was re-dubbed Nepali as 'Nepal' came to mean not only the urbanized Kathmandu Valley, but all lands ruled by the Shahs.

Koshi

Prithvi Narayan's heirs Pratap Singh, Rana Bahadur and Girvan Yuddha continued expansion of their kingdom into the Koshi river basin east of the Bagmati system. Like the Gandaki, the Koshi traditionally has seven major tributaries descending from the Himalayas before joining forces to break through the Mahabharat and Siwalik ranges. Ranges drained by Koshi tributaries include Mount Everest and its neighbouring peaks, as well as the western side of the Kangchenjunga massif. Kangchenjunga and a high ridge to the south are the watershed between the Koshi and Tista basins as well as the border between Nepal and the former kingdom of Sikkim that India annexed in 1975.

Containment by British

The Shah dynasty's expansion continued eastward touching Bhutan and westward reaching present Jammu and Kashmir. Gorkha's (aka Nepal) quest for expansion was ultimately stopped by the British who were also on their quest for expansion. Britishers had declared war which lasted about 2 years resulting in the signing of treaty of Sugauli - according to which, Nepal were to lose two thirds of their territory to the British East India Company and to recruit the Nepalese for the company's army - This is how the present-day Nepalese borders came to be.

Hindu Groups

Hindu castes migrated from Southern part of present-day Nepal to Nepal after 11th century. The traditional Hindu caste system is based on the four Varna Vyawastha "the class system" of Brahman (Bahun) priests, scholars and advisors; Kshatriya (Chhetri) rulers and warriors, Vaishya (merchants); Shudra (farmers and menial occupations). However, the middle Vaishya and Shudra are underrepresented in the hills, apparently because they did not have a compelling reason to leave the plains while Muslim invaders tried to eliminate previous elites. Dalits seem to have accompanied the upper castes into the hills because they were bound by long-standing patronage arrangements.

Traditional caste rules govern who can eat with whom, especially when boiled rice is served, and who can accept water from whom. Until the 1950s these rules were enforced by law.

Dalits are subject to caste-based discrimination and so-called ‘untouchability’ in social, economic, educational, political and religious areas. The National Dalit Commission (2002) categorized 28 cultural groups as Dalits. Some argue that the use of the term Dalit will never ever help to abolish caste-based untouchability. (Literally, 'Dalit' translates to 'suppressed' in Nepali.) There are suggestions that the term should not be used because it not only breeds inferiority but is also insulting.

Newar

Newars, —the indigenous people of the Kathmandu valley— follow both Hinduism and Buddhism. According to the 2001 census, they can be classified into 40 distinct cultural groups, but all speak a common language called Nepal bhasa (Newa bhaaya). Newars use prevailing lingua francas to communicate outside their community: Nepali in the hills and Maithili, Bhojpuri and Awadhi in the Terai.

Indigenous peoples

The ethnic groups of the hills, Terai and mountain areas are grouped as Janajati. According to the National Foundation for Development of Indigenous Nationalities (NFDIN), ethnic groups are those “who have their own mother tongue and traditional customs, a distinct cultural identity, a distinct social structure and written or oral history all of their own". A total of 61 Adibasi Janajatis has been recognized by the Nepal Government, 5 are from the mountain regions, 20 from the Hills, 7 from inner Terai and 11 from the Terai region. A Janajati is a community that has its own mother tongue and traditional culture and yet does not fall under the conventional fourfold Varna of the Hindu system or the Hindu hierarchical caste structure. Many of these ethnic groups are Hinduized to some degree, although Hindu practices supplement rather than replace more ancient beliefs and practices. Unlike the Hindus, many indigenous nationalities of Nepal such as the Sherpa people as well as the people of Muslim & Christian faiths, have a culture of eating beef.

Other caste and ethnic groups included in the ‘other’ category are; Sikhs, Christians, Bengalis, and Marawadis.

Different indigenous nationalities are in different stages of development. Some indigenous nationalities are nomads, e.g. Raute, and some are forest dwellers, e.g. Chepang and Bankaria. Most of the indigenous nationalities rely on agriculture and pastoralism and very few are cosmopolitan, e.g. Newar.

Religion

The main religions in Nepal are Hinduism (81.3% / 21,551,492), Buddhism (9.0% / 2,396,099), Islam (4.4% / 1,162,370), Kirat (3.1% / 807,169), Christianity (1.4% / 375,699), Prakriti (0.5% / 121,982), Bon (13,006), Jainism (3,214), Bahai (1,283) and Sikhism (609).

Media

Although most local newspapers are published in Nepali, some national and local papers are in English, notably the Kathmandu Post.

Climate

Nepal has a Monsoonal climate with four main seasons - though traditionally a year was categorized into six distinct climate periods: Basanta (spring), Grishma (early summer), Barkha (summer monsoon), Sharad (early autumn), Hemanta (late autumn) and Shishir (winter).

Below is a general guide to conditions at different seasons:

• Heavy monsoonal rains from June to September - the rains are generally lighter high in the Himalayas than in Kathmandu, though the mountain peaks are often not visible due to clouds. In the Kathmandu Valley & Pokhara - monsoon rains typically consist of an hour or two of rain every two or three days. The rains clean the air, streets, & cool the air. If you come, bring an umbrella, expect lower lodging prices & fewer tourists.
• Clear and cool weather from 'October to December - after the monsoon, there is little dust in the air so this is the best season to visit the hilly and mountainous regions.
• Cold from January to March, with the temperature in Kathmandu often dropping as low as 0°C (32°F) at night, with extreme cold at high elevations. It is possible to trek in places like the Everest region during the winter, but it is extremely cold and snowfall may prevent going above 4,000 - 4,500 metres (13,000 - 15,000 feet). The Jomosom trek is a reasonable alternative, staying below 3,000 metres (10,000 feet) with expected minimum temperatures of about -10°C (14°F) (and much better chances of avoiding heavy snow.)
• Dry and warm weather from April to June - there is an abundance of blooming flowers in the Himalayas at this time, with rhododendrons, in particular, adding a splash of colour to the landscape. Terai temperatures may reach or exceed 40°C (104°F) while Kathmandu temperatures are about 30°C (86°F). This is the best time to undertake mountain expeditions.

The recording of temperatures and rainfall of the major locations across Nepal was started in 1962 and their averages [1] provides a reference point for analyzing the climate trend.

GPS maps

There are couple of maps available for Nepal:

• Nepal Trilogy. Which comes as 3 separate maps covering the following areas: Annapurna area with Pokhara, Helambu Langtang area of ​​Kathmandu and Bhaktapur, Everest region with Jiri and Tumlingtar. [2]
• Garmin NepalTOPO NPL

With Nepal Trilogy being superior of these two ones.

Electricity

Electricity is largely produced by hydro-electric dams and sometimes cannot meet demand. Power is occasionally cut to just a few hours a day, although it may be on for most of the day in areas near a dam. Hotels and businesses often have battery back-up and noisy diesel generators. On treks and outside of major cities electricity is scarce. Expect to pay 100 - 800Rs per hour to charge your devices on many tea-house treks, including the Everest base camp trek. One alternative is to buy a bayonet light to electricity power plug converter, however these only work while voltage remains high (they often won't work on low power solar systems you find right up in the mountains).

The standard Nepalese electrical outlet is the Type D (three round-pronged triangle) outlet common to India, but nearly all will accept Europlugs. Some tourist accommodations have universal outlets that also accept British, American and Australian plugs. Simple adapters can be purchased inexpensively in Kathmandu to change the shape of the plug (but not the voltage of the electricity!); some have fuses built in. Try shopping in Kumari Arcade at Mahaboudha near Bir Hospital of Kathmandu for cheap electrical alternative. Be sure to decrease the price by about 25-30% before buying.

The output voltage from the wall outlet is 220V AC, and the nominal frequency is 50Hz. American and Canadian travellers in particular must be careful about the voltage range of their devices, and ensure that they can work off the local supply.

Regions

Nepal is officially divided into 14 administrative zones and 7 states, but travellers might be more comfortable with the conceptual division below (based on the country's elevation). From north to south:

Regions of Nepal

Himalayas The roof of the world, including Mount Everest, Annapurna, Langtang National Park and The Great Himalaya Trail with numerous sightseeing, trekking, and other adventure sport opportunities.

Kathmandu Valley Home to Kathmandu, Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park, Boudhanath, Patan and Bhaktapur, this is in the heart of Nepal and a crossroads of cultures with numerous sacred temples and monuments.

Middle Hills The Hill Region (Pahar in Nepali) is mostly between 700 and 4,000 metres altitude. This region is split from the Terai Range by the Mahabharat Lekh (Lesser Himalaya) and forms geographic midlands between the Terai and the Himalayas. It includes the scenic Pokhara valley, a popular base for activities in the area.

Western Tarai The western side of the Terai mountain range with the Royal Chitwan National Park and Bardiya National Park.

Eastern Tarai Quite a populated area with Biratnagar, Nepal's second largest municipality.

Cities

• Kathmandu — capital and cultural centre of Nepal, with the stupas at Boudhanath and Swayambhu
• Bhaktapur — well-preserved historical city, centre of Nepali pottery making, no motorized vehicles allowed!
• Biratnagar — this city is in eastern Nepal near Dharan and famous for political reasons
• Birgunj — business gateway between India and Nepal in mid-southern Nepal
• Boudhanath — (Boudha) home of the largest Buddhist Stupa in Nepal and a very important place of pilgrimage and meditation for Buddhists, local Nepalis, and tourists
• Janakpur — a historical religious centre and home to the 500-year old Janaki Temple
• Namche Bazaar — a Sherpa settlement located in the Solu Khumbu region - popular with trekkers
• Nepalgunj — the main hub for the Mid- and Far-Western Development Region; Bardiya National Park is close-by
• Patan — Beautiful, historic Patan Durbar Square was designated as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1979
• Rajbiraj — a historical and religious centre and home to over 1200-year old Rajdevi and Chinnamasta Temple

Other destinations

Locked between the snow peaks of the Himalayas and the seething Ganges plain, Nepal has long been home to wandering ascetics and tantric yogis. Consequently, the country has a wealth of sacred sites and natural wonders:

• Annapurna — popular trekking region of Nepal with the world-famous Annapurna Circuit
• Bhimdattanagar — small town near Indian border, Banbasa. Its the nearest border to Indian capital Delhi. Home of largest deer herd in Asia.
• Chitwan National Park — see tigers, rhinos and animals in the jungle
• Daman — tiny village in the mountains offering panoramic views of the Himalayas; especially stunning at sunrise and sunset
• Gorkha — small town near Pokhara the inhabitants of which were known as Gorkhali and the origination of current Nepal
• Haleshi (Tibetan: Maratika) — the site of a mountain cave where Padmasambhava attained a state beyond life and death
• Jorayal — small agricultural village near Mahabharat Range, Doti. Its nearest border to East is Bogtan Rural Municipality,Doti, on South is Chure Rural Municipality, Kailali, on West is Alital Rural Mun, Dadeldhura and on North is Ganyapdhura Rural Municipality, Dadeldhura and Shikhar Municipality, Doti.
• Khandeshwori — small village on foothills of Api Himal in Darchula.
• Mount Everest — the tallest peak of the world in the Khumbu region
• Lumbini — the sacred site of the Buddha Shakyamuni's birth
• Nagarkot — a hill station one hour from Kathmandu offering excellent views of the Himalayan Range
• Parping — the site of several sacred caves associated with Padmasambhava, the founder of Tibetan Buddhism
• Pokhara — picturesque lake-side town fast becoming the destination of choice for travellers due to the scenery, adventure sports, dining, hotels & live music scene
• Rama Roshan— Ramaroshan, nestled at an altitude of 2500m in Achham district, is a hidden gem with 18 lush meadows & 12 lakes, offering a picturesque landscape and serving as a habitat for Nepal's national bird, Danfe.a beautiful and undiscovered traditional village with a stunning view of the Badimalika range
• Shuklaphanta Wildlife Reserve— largest grassland in the Far Western Tarai, but this is not the only superlative: it is home to Nepal’s, maybe even Asia’s, largest population of swamp deer
• Tangting— a beautiful and undiscovered traditional Gurung village with a stunning view of the Annapurna range
• Kushma, which is a beautiful hilly municipality filled with picturesque villages

See also: Sacred sites of the Indian sub-continent.

Get in

Visas

Citizens of India do not need a visa to enter Nepal - they may enter using a passport, photo drivers licence or governmental/ration/voter ID card and may stay and work indefinitely.

Tourist visas are available on arrival for citizens of all other countries (except Afghanistan, Cameroon, Ethiopia, Ghana, Iraq, Liberia, Nigeria, Palestine, Somalia, Swaziland, Syria and Zimbabwe) at the designated land borders (see below) for USD30 for 15 days, USD50 for 30 days, and USD125 for 90 days (visas are free for all tourists who come from a SAARC country). They can only be granted for a maximum of 150 days in each 12 month period.

As well as US dollars, other convertible currencies like the euro, Pound sterling and Australian dollars can also be used, but some smaller entry points (like Birgunj) may not accept them.

All tourist visas are currently "multiple entry" type visas, and permit multiple entries and exits during the period of validity.

Be aware that, without permission, voluntary services while on a tourist visa is strictly prohibited. It is a punishable offense.

There is detailed information on the official website of Nepal Immigration.

If you require a tourist visa, it is possible to fill out your details online, print the corresponding form, and present it on arrival at the payment kiosk and immigration. Alternatively, there are a number of automated machines as you enter the Kathmandu airport where you can either scan your passport or enter your details manually and have your photo taken. Once complete, the machines will provide you with a receipt which you can then take to the payment kiosk before finally presenting everything to the immigration officers at the booths in exchange for your visa.

How to extend your visa : To extend your tourist visa, visit either the Nepal Immigration Department in Kathmandu, or the Immigration Office in Pokhara, with your passport and another photo (photo not needed for tourist visa extension), and pay US $3 in Nepali rupees for every day past your visa you want to stay, up to the maximum of 150 days per year. They require to submit the electronic application form in advance, but it can be done in special kiosk in the office. Minimum visa extension period is 15 days for tourist visas (thus it costs 45 USD or equivalent in rupees). However, if you already missed your visa expiration date, 20 USD of additional charge may apply. For tourist visa photo is not needed, just go to the electronic application kiosk inside the Immigration Department, where a nice Nepali will fill the form for you and take a visa photo for free. Then proceed to the visa application counter, pay the money and wait for like one hour and they will call your name. You can ask a travel agency in Thamel to do it for you, but they will charge around 25 USD for this service (or less if you're a good negotiator).

Some bloggers mentioned, that if you overstay and just try to cross border in the airport, they'll charge you some extra money, but the nearest ATM is outside the security check, so it's easy to miss your plane. On the other hand, they accept dollars.

Points of entry or exit:

Tourists, other than citizens of India, may only enter and leave Nepal via the following points of entry:

1. Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu
2. Kakarvitta, Jhapa (Eastern Nepal)
3. Kunauli Bazar, Rajbiraj, Saptari (Central Eastern Nepal) (Indians Only)
4. Thadi, Lahan, Sirha via Laukaha, Madhubani (Central Eastern Nepal) (Indians Only)
5. Birgunj, Parsa (Central Nepal)
6. Kodari, Sindhupalchowk (Northern Border)
7. Belahia, Bhairahawa (Rupandehi, Western Nepal)
8. Jamunaha, Nepalgunj (Banke, Mid Western Nepal)
9. Mohana, Dhangadhi (Kailali, Far Western Nepal)
10. Gadda Chauki, Bhimdattanagar (Kanchanpur, Far Western Nepal)

Be aware that if coming from India, INR500 and INR1000 banknotes may not be imported since their circulation is prohibited in Nepal. However, in entry points that are adjourning India (Karkavitta, Rajbiraj, Thadi for example) will have plenty of currency exchange points that exchange Indian rupees (IC) to Nepali rupees (NC). Inquire from a few places for the rates. Best rates you would get will be 0-3% off from the mid-market rates. Anything more than that, walk away and try the next one.

By plane

Nepal's Tribhuvan International Airport is the main entry point for those arriving by air, and is located just outside of the Ring Road in Kathmandu. The airport serves as the hub for Nepal Airlines, which flies from various destinations in India, as well as Bangkok, Doha, Dubai, Hong Kong and Kuala Lumpur.

Other major airlines that serve Nepal from across Asia include Air Arabia, Air Asia X, Air China, Air India, Etihad, flydubai, Korean Air, Malaysia Airlines, Oman Air, Qatar Airways, Silk Air and Thai Airways.

The only airline that flies directly to Kathmandu from Europe is Turkish Airlines from Istanbul.

Tourist visas are available on arrival (see above). Money can be changed to the local currency as well, but these services are only available directly after scheduled arrivals.

Outside the airport, all 'representatives' of the tourist industry are required to remain 10 m (about 30 feet) from the front door. This does not prevent them from waving large signs and yelling in an attempt to encourage you to choose them as your guide/taxi/hotel/luggage carrier. Make your choice before crossing the line, or better yet, arrange your first night's accommodation before you arrive and ask the hotel to send someone to meet you. Many hotel and guest houses offer complimentary pickup and delivery from the airport. Fixed price Taxis are also available before you exit the building but you may get a cheaper fare if you are willing to haggle. As always, negotiate the price beforehand with the driver. A taxi ride to Thamel or Boudha should be around 500 NRS. Otherwise, order a taxi at the pre-paid booth inside the airport, which costs 700+NRs (minimum charge is 500 NRS). This is more than the normal taxi rate, but it saves the hassle of long negotiations. You can also walk a few hundred metres to the Ring Road and grab a city bus or taxi there, which will be cheaper.

By car or motorcycle

It is quite easy to rent a car with a driver in Nepal, however, you would need to haggle to get a reasonable price. If you come in summer, better take a car with air-con. Car rental without a driver in Nepal is almost unheard of, as is renting a car in India and taking it across the border.

Many travellers drive from India on motorcycles. A major entry point is Kunauli Bazar as it is just 27 Kilometre to Ease West Corridor NH27 of India. Technically, foreigners have to pay customs at the borders but most don't bother and end up paying a penalty. Selling of Unauthorised vehicles in Nepal is a punishable offense. Local court including Rajbiraj Court has sentenced people to custody for the same.

If you are coming from India you will find driving in Nepal a lot less chaotic! The roads are amazing and the new east-west highway currently under construction with support from the Japanese will open up new destinations for those interested in exploring Nepal by motor-bike.

Please check before hiring a motorbike on the current state of fuel. At time of writing (13DEC 09) there was large problems with fuel supply which can leave riders stranded. The bike rental generally start at 700NPR for a day, (counted as 8am to shop closing time, not 24hrs) for a basic 125cc Bajaj Pulsar or Hero Honda, Royal Enfield and Hartford off-road bikes cost from upward of 1700NPR. Note the hire bikes have no insurance, and frequently they are poorly maintained with various reliability issues such as juddering brakes, loose gear lever, throttle linkage, cranking troubles etc.

Hirers are also notorious for trying to charge tourists large amounts of money on returning the bike for 'damage payment' that may not have been from you. Therefore make sure a thorough damage assessment with the hirer is carried out before departing and if the hirer tries to scam you on return go to local police.

The best route to explore Nepal by road on motorcycle is to enter from the border crossing of Banbasa- Mahendra Nagar, just after the border crossing, the Mahendra Highway (made with collaboration from India) is amazing to ride on.

Crossing the border requires you to pay a daily toll of 120 rs (Nepali) and a transport permit of 50 rs Nepali(one time), the cops can ask you for these two pieces of document anytime during the ride.

By bus

There are five border crossings open to tourists. The Sunauli-Bhairawa border crossing is the closest to Varanasi, the Raxaul-Birganj crossing to Patna, Kolkata, and Siliguri-Kakarbhitta is to Darjeeling. The Banbassa-Mahendrenagar border crossing, in the extreme west of Nepal, is the closest to Delhi. The Bahraich-Nepalganj border is the one closest to Lucknow, the easiest destination by air or train from Delhi.

The crossing between Nepal and Tibet via Kodari is open to independent travelers entering Nepal, but only to organized groups entering Tibet.

By train

A regular broad-gauge train service links Jaynagar in Bihar, India, with Janakpur, making several stops within Nepal. However, except for Indians, foreigners are not allowed to cross the border on the train.

Get around

Domestic Flights

There are now many airlines, offering frequent flights to several destinations including companies with beautiful names like Yeti air, Buddha Air and Cosmic Air. Destinations to and from Kathmandu include places such as Pokhara, Biratnagar, Nepalganj, Lukla, Pokhara, Simikot, Jomsom, Janakpur, Rajbiraj and Bharatpur.

For bookings from outside Nepal, there are internet agents (like NepalAirFlight, NepalFlightCentre and air viva) who can make bookings, take payment (credit/debit cards/Paypal) and then send e-tickets. Other than these agents, tickets can only be bought on arrival in Nepal so if you are flying at short notice it is necessary to be flexible on flight times/dates as the planes often get fully booked in advance. Note that cancellations and delays due to severe weather conditions do occur. If you have time, just board the next plane.

Overland

• Micro Bus - This kind of transportation has become very popular lately. They are 10-12 seaters with very fast service. It has almost replaced local bus service given its fast service. However, apart from the previous few routes, Micro Bus has come up with many other alternate routes and now has got good coverage. The fare is more expensive than the local bus. Tourists should be aware though that microbus are often driven with great speed and very little care and have unfortunately been the cause of a large percentage of the road accidents in Nepal! Use microbuses with caution!
• Local Bus - Although the system can be confusing, they are cheap. They can be crowded at times both with people and domestic animals such as goats, ducks etc. Some buses will not depart until full to a certain quota.
• Tourist Bus - Book a few days ahead at a Kathmandu or Pokhara travel agent (or your hotel will book for you). A few steps above local buses (no goats, everyone gets a seat) but not much safer. "Greenline" is the most reliable company and has trips between Kathmandu, Chitwan, Lumbini and Pokhara.
• Rickshaw - Good for short jaunts if you don't have much luggage and don't mind being bounced around a bit. Bargain before you get in, and don't be afraid to walk away and try another.
• Tempo - These come in two types. One is a three-wheeled electric or propane-powered micro-bus for 10-13 passengers. They run in different routes around the city and cost 5-12 NRs. The other type is a newer Toyota van running the same routes at a higher price and a bit faster and safer. Be prepared for a crowd
• Taxis - There are two types of taxi: "private", which pretty much run from the airport to your (upscale) hotel, and "10-Rupee", which don't leave until they are full. When haggling for fare, remember that taxi drivers have been hit hard by the petrol crisis, sometimes queuing up overnight to get 5 litres of petrol at twice the market price. So be sympathetic but don’t get ripped off! Offer to pay 'meter plus tip', 10% is more than enough.
• Tram - The old-fashioned street cable-car that ran from Kathmandu (near the stadium) to Bhaktapur is currently closed due to 'non-existing maintenance' and the fact that none of the drivers paid for the power.
• Custom or classic motorcycle - Run by a European couple, Hearts and Tears in Pokhara offer lessons, guided tours and rental of 350cc and 500cc Royal Enfield bikes. In Kathmandu, Himalayan Enfields (behind the Israeli Embassy on Lazimpat)sells/rents good bikes and does repairs. The official Enfield dealer in Nepal is in Balaju Industrial Estate off the Ring Road.
• Local motorcycle - Another choice is to rent a small motorcycle. And it can be rented in the Thamel area. Again with the petrol crisis, motorcycle rental has become a costly choice, depending on availability 1 litre of petrol will cost you 120-250 NRs on top of the rental fee (300-800NRs).
• On Foot - although motor roads are penetrating further into the hinterlands, many destinations can only be reached by foot (or helicopter). See the section on trekking, below.

Talk

The great biological and cultural diversity of present-day Nepal is matched by its linguistic diversity. Nepal boasts a variety of living languages, many of which are remnants of the traditional Asiatic cultural amalgamation in the region. An impressively large number for a country with a small landmass like Nepal, it has more distinct and individual languages in one country than the whole of the European community.

The official language of Nepal is Nepali. It's related to Hindi, Bengali, Sanskrit, and other Indo-Aryan languages, and is normally written with the Devanagari script. While most Nepalis speak at least some Nepali, a large percentage of the population speak another language as their mother tongue, such as Tharu around Chitwan, Newari in the Kathmandu Valley, Sherpa in the Everest area, and Maithili and Bhojpuri in the Terai.

Although Nepal was never a British colony, English is widespread among educated Nepalis. Nevertheless learning even a few words of Nepali is fun and useful, especially outside of the tourist district and while trekking. As Asian languages go, Nepali has to be one of the easiest to learn, and the traveller making the effort isn't likely to make worse blunders than many natives with a different first language.

Owing to its similarities with Nepali, and the prevalence of Indian media in Nepal, Hindi is widely understood and spoken, particularly in the south of the country.

A disturbingly large number of Nepal’s mother tongues are severely endangered and will likely be reduced to symbolic identity markers within a generation. So why not try to pick up a few phrases!

See: Sherpa phrasebook, Tamang phrasebook, Thami phrasebook, Majhi phrasebook

Do

Trekking

The spectacular view from Annapurna Base Camp.

A total of 101,320 trekkers visited Nepal in 2007. Out of total 60,237 (59.4%) visited Annapurna area while those visiting the Everest and Langtang regions accounted for 26,511 (26.5%) and 8,165 (8.1%) respectively.

"Tea-House Trekking" is the easiest way to trek as it doesn't require support. Tea Houses have now developed into full-scale tourist lodges with hot showers, pizza, pasta and beer. The day's hikes are between lodge-filled settlements or villages: there's no need for tents, food, water, or beer-- all those things, plus luxuries such as apple-pie, can be purchased along the way. Physical requirements go from very soft to strenuous.

Facilities available in remote areas are less extensive than in the more popular areas thus these areas are often visited as organised groups, including guides, porters and full support. Manaslu, Kanchenjunga, Dolpo, Mustang and Humla require Restricted Area Permits requiring a minimum of two foreign trekkers plus a registered/qualified guide. Progress is being made in Nepal however, and tea-houses are becoming more available in all of these areas.

Annapurna Region Treks

Annapurna - North of Pokhara, from lush middle hills into high mountains.

• Annapurna Circuit: A 2-3 week trek around the Annapurna mountains, leads up the Maryangdi river to Manang, over Thorung La (5400m) to the Hindu temples at Muktinath. Down the Kali Gandaki on the Jomsom trail - The last week of the Annapurna Circuit, done in the opposite direction. Known as the "Apple-Pie Trek" partly for crossing the apple-growing region of Nepal, and partly for being one of the easier treks, enjoying Gurung and Thakali hospitality. Up through spring rhododendron blooms to Poon Hill for a dawn Himalayan vista. Another shorter but spectacular mini-circuit is the Nayapul-Ghandruk-Ghorepani-PoonHill-Nayapul route.
• Khayer Lake: Khayer Lake trek, off the beaten trekking trail, goes to along the remote Himalaya scopes of Kopra edge and through forest with conventional towns in the heart of Annapurna region.
• Annapurna Sanctuary: A trek up into the very heart of the range provides an awesome 360-degree high mountain skyline.
• Annapurna Base Camp Trekking: The trek starts from the ‘Lake City’ Pokhara, which itself is a beautiful city that serves as the start point of several other treks.

Everest Region Treks

Everest lies in the region known as Khumbu - To get here, take a bus to Jiri or fly to Lukla then hike up to Namche Bazzar, capital of the Sherpa lands at the foot of Everest. Main "teahouse trek" regions, in each of these areas there are a number of trail options, there is plenty of scope for short treks of less than a week to much longer if you have time and wanderlust.

• Everest Base Camp Trek: Lukla to EBC, Stunning scenery, Wonderful Sherpa people. The most popular trek is up to Everest Base Camp and an ascent of Kalar Patar. Visit the Buddhist Tengboche monastery for the Mani Rimdu festival in November.
• The 'Classic Everest Base Camp Trek': Jiri to EBC
• Gokyo: Lukla to the sacred lakes of Gokyo. Explore the Gokyo valley with its sacred lakes and stupendous views of four 8000m peaks. Or a circuit of the region crossing the high passes or Cho La and Renjo La.
• Numbur Cheese Circuit Trek through the largest cheese-producing area, via the sacred lakes of Jata Pokhari and Panch Pokhari to Numburchuili base camp.
• Island Peak Trek in the Everest region takes in some of the most spectacular scenery in the Himalayas. See 'Regions' - Khumbu
• Pikey Cultural Trail
• Dudh Kunda Cultural Trail

Trekking Peaks

Trekking Peaks require a qualified "climbing guide", permits and deposits to cover camp waste disposal

• Island Peak Trek - The Island Peak trek in the Khumbu region takes in some of the most spectacular scenery in the Himalayas.
• Mera Peak Climbing - Enjoy panoramic views of Mt. Everest (8,848 m; 29,030 ft), Cho-Oyu (8,201 m; 26,910 ft), Lhotse (8,516 m; 27,940 ft), Makalu (8463 m; 27,770 ft), Kangchenjunga (8,586 m; 28,170 ft), Nuptse (7,855 m; 25,770 ft), and Chamlang (7,319 m; 24,010 ft).

Langtang Region Treks

• Helambu Langtang Trek a short taxi ride from Thamel to the roadhead at Shivapuri leads to a trail through the middle-hills countryside of Helambu, either circuit around and return to Kathmandu or cross the pass to the sacred lake at Gosainkhund, descend and then hike up the Langtang valley beneath mountains that form the border with Tibet. Descend back to catch a bus on a rough road through Trisuli to Kathmandu. If you don't fancy the long shaky bus ride (>8 hours) from/to Syabrubesi, Dhunche or Thulo Barku, you can get a 4WD pickup for about 90000 Rs to/from Kathmandu.

• Tamang Heritage Trail

Pro-Poor Rural Treks

Tourism is a dynamic sector of the economy and accepting it as a vehicle of poverty reduction is a relatively new concept in Nepal. Nepal is a predominantly rural society, with 85% of the population living in the countryside. Naturally, Nepal’s rich culture and ethnic diversity are best experienced in its village communities. You can engage in local activities, learn how to cook local cuisine or take part in agricultural activities like kitchen gardening, etc.

According to the NTB rural tourism in Nepal focuses on "Village Trek" visits to indigenous people that “… will make tourists, experience rural life and Nepalese hospitality off the beaten path with all the beautiful scenery and cultural diversity of Nepal.”

In the rural Nepal context, pro-poor tourism means expanding employment and small enterprise opportunities especially pro-Indigenous Peoples, youth and pro-women. Recent pro-poor initiatives in Nepal include the UNDP-TRPAP [3] and ILO-EMPLED [4] projects.

• Tamang Heritage Trail
• Chepang Heritage Trail
• Pathibhara Trail
• Limbu Cultural Trail
• Dudhkunda Cultural Trail
• Pikey Cultural Trail
• Numbur Cheese Circuit
• Indigenous Peoples Trail

Trekking on the Indigenous Peoples Trail and the Numbur Cheese Circuit is a means for Nepali as well as foreign visitors to experience the rural and traditional Nepali way of life, and for the local community to participate in and benefit directly from tourism. You'll feel better knowing that your visit is genuinely helping your hosts. And if you want to simply lie on a beach.... well, The Majhi Fishing Experience on the Sun Kosi in Ramechhap features one of the best beaches in Nepal!

'Ethno-Tourism' or Cultural Treks

Ethno-tourism is increasingly popular in Nepal and is designed to maximize social and economic benefits to the local communities and minimize negative impacts to cultural heritage and the environment. Ethno-tourism is a specialized type of cultural tourism and can be defined as any excursion which focuses on the works of humans rather than nature, and attempts to give the tourist an understanding of the lifestyles of local people.

• Numbur Cheese Circuit in the Everest Region
• Indigenous Peoples Trail in Ramechhap
• Majhi Fishing Experience on the Sun Koshi
• Helambu Trek in Langtang
• Tamang Heritage Trail in Langtang
• Chepang Heritage Trail in Chitwan

Remote Treks

Other more remote regions will require a bit more planning and probably local assistance, not least as the required permits are only issued via Nepali guides/agents. Camping is required on one or more nights.

• Kanchenjunga - far eastern Nepal, accessible via Taplejung (from Kathmandu 40min by plane, 40hrs by bus), a strenuous trek through the sparsely populated country to the third highest mountain.
• Dolpa - Upper Dolpa in northwestern Nepal beyond the highest Himalaya is the remote Land of the Bon, almost as Tibetan as Nepali. Lower Dolpa is more accessible and can be reached by plane
• Manaslu - Unspoiled trails through remote villages and over a wild pass to circuit an 8000m mountain. The Manaslu massif rises above the old kingdom of Gorkha about halfway between Kathmandu and Pokhara.

Social Responsibility and Responsible Travel

Nepal is one of the poorest countries in the world and hiring a local company will benefit the local economy, however, the involvement of travel agents in Kathmandu must be approached with caution. The numbers of travel, trekking and Rafting agencies registered in 2007 were 1,078, 872 and 94 respectively. The rapid growth in tourism in Nepal coupled with the absence of a self-regulating code of conduct has helped to grow unhealthy competition among travel agents with regular undercutting in tariffs. Such undesirable actions take away benefits not only from trekking guides and porters but also from others engaged in supplying goods and providing services to the tourists. By paying lower tariffs tourists may save money but directly at the expense of local communities. Try to use 'socially responsible' tour operators that promote proper porter treatment and cultural and environmental sensitivity among their clients in line with the UN-WTO Sustainable Tourism Criteria [5]

Organised Group Trekking or Independent Trekking?

While organized groups from "western tour operators" from overseas drain the operational profit out of the country, still organized groups hire a larger amount of local workforce from porters to guides. With "local tour operators" [6] [7] most of the operational profit remains in the country. Groups are more likely to go to remote areas, and rely as much as possible on local resources to minimize transport cost and hire maximum local porters.

Traveling with a western company you will have more assurance that your money and life will be slightly safer due to the higher standards, rules and regulations we have in the western world. Traveling in Nepal can be quite difficult and local guides and operators sometimes do not understand the needs of westerners or provide a high level of service. It can be worth paying slightly more to enjoy a hassle-free experience. It is also handy to know that your guide will speak perfect English or whatever language you speak. There are plenty of decent overseas specialists that offer travel to Nepal such as Lost Earth Adventures, High Adventure, Exodus, or Intrepid. There have been many cases of people booking tours with local operators and people not getting quite the experience they thought they would receive. As with most things a personal recommendation from a friend is the best resource for finding out about a company.

The maps in Nepal are not the greatest in the world and it is not recommended that you trek without a guide unless you have a solid background in hiking and can navigate yourself and know how to survive in the mountains. Many people each year go trekking in Nepal because they hear it is a nice thing to do. Many are unequipped and ill prepared and many go missing or get hurt.

Monsoon season can be nice to trek in but beware there are many landslides on steep hills and mountain roads can become treacherous. It would be prudent to avoid high mountain roads in the Monsoon Season.

In comparison, individual travellers concentrated on the main trails with Lodges with less budget. They usually use simpler lodges with fewer costs. They venture seldom in remote areas, as that would mean more expensive or very basic local services which most try to avoid. They generally spend less than organized travellers on same trails simply because they often have lesser budgets.

Safety and comfort are higher with organized tours. There is a full range of choice for any demand, just be sure to think about well what trekking means for you. For the hardcore trekkers, no porter will ever carry, while for many to carry a 15-18 kg backpack might be just simple too much.

• Keep working conditions and wages in mind when selecting a trekking company. For visitors from the west, hiring guides and porters is affordable and an extra few dollars can make a big impact in the life of a guide or porter. In order to feed themselves and their families, porters take on the job of carrying heavy loads to high elevations. Some of the problems porters face are underpayment, inadequate clothing and gear, being forced to carry excess weight, insufficient food provision and poor sleeping facilities. Sometimes these issues leave porters open to illness and neglect on the mountain. Nowadays most companies care better due to past awareness campaigns to their staff, however, some backpackers employ (illegally) porters and guides and reports have it, that some tourists cheat also on cheap ´rates.

• There are a number of websites that facilitate direct contact with recommended trekking guides and porters. By law this is not permitted, as foreigners on tourist visa are not allowed to employ any kind of workforce, but only legal registered companies as used in most countries around the globe. So unless you want to break the law, do not employ yourself any kind of porters or guides and ensure to hire only through legal companies, in case of an accident it may bring severe problems to have employed illegally staff.

• The International Porter Protect Group’s (IPPG) [8] was set up in response to these issues, to improve health and safety for the trekking porter at work in the mountains and reduce the incidence of avoidable illness, injury and death. This is achieved by raising awareness of the issues among the trekking community and travel companies, leaders and sirdars. IPPG recommends the following guidelines that:
  • Adequate clothing is made available for protection in bad weather and at altitudes. This should include adequate footwear, hat, gloves, windproof jacket and trousers, sunglasses, and access to a blanket and pad above the snowline.
  • Leaders and trekkers provide the same standard of medical care for porters they would expect themselves.
  • Porters must not be paid off because of illness without the leader or trekkers being informed.
  • Sick porters are never sent down alone, but rather with someone who speaks their language.
  • Sufficient funds are provided to sick porters to cover the cost of their land rescue and treatment. Also, we select strong and experienced porters!
  • All trekking porters should have provision for security, personal protective equipment including shoes and clothes, depending on the weather.

Rafting / Kayaking

Nepal has been called a 'Whitewater Paradise'. With world-class rapids in the tallest mountain range on earth, there is nothing not to love about rafting and kayaking here. From half-day sessions to full 10-day expeditions there is something for everyone of any ability. Rafting and Kayaking Rafting trips in Nepal tend to be multi-day trips. You get to play on the rivers during the day and by night camp out under the stars with a fire on river beaches. Tours typically start and end at Kathmandu or Pokhara. For detailed itineraries visit the Nepal Association of Rafting Agents. The main rivers for rafting are:

• Bhote Koshi
• Kali Gandaki
• Karnali
• Seti
• Sun Koshi
• Trisuli
• Tamor
• Marshyangdhi

Many companies offer Learn to Kayak Clinics on the Trisuli and Lower Seti rivers, an ideal spot to take your first steps into the world of whitewater. GRG's (http://www.grgadventurekayaking.com) and RAPIDRUNNER EXPEDITIONS [www.rapidrunnerexpeditions.com] are the highest recommended companies to specialize in kayaking in Kathmandu and Pokhara. Other companies, such as River and Soul, provide fully inclusive and custom-made tours to Nepal where whitewater rafting and or kayaking plays a major role. Nepal is without doubt one of the best places in the world for whitewater adventures.

Mountain Biking

Mountain biking in Nepal is fun and at times challenging event. There are many popular biking routes in Nepal that are in operation at the moment. They are:

• The Scar Road from Kathmandu starts from Balaju towards Kakani to Shivapuri ending in Budhanilkantha in northern Kathmandu.
• Kathmandu to Dhulikhel starts from Koteshwor in Kathmandu to Bhaktapur to Banepa to Dhulikhel. You can also continue from Dhulikhel to Namobuddha to Panauti to Banepa.
• The Back Door to Kathmandu starts from Panauti and heads to Lakuri Bhanjyang and then to Lubhu in Lalitpur ending near Patan.
• Dhulikhel to the Tibetan Border starts in Dhulikhel and follows the Araniko Highway with a night stay on the way.
• The Rajpath from Kathmandu starts from Kalanki in Kathmandu and follows the Prithvi Highway up to Naubise. Then Tribhuwan Highway route is taken with an overnight stay in Daman. From there, ride downhill to Hetauda, with the option of heading towards Narayangarh or the Indian border.
• Hetauda to Narayangarh and Mugling starts from Hetauda and heads along the Mahendra Highway to Narayangarh. You could take a detour to Sauraha near from Taandi.
• Kathmandu to Pokhara starts from Kathmandu and traverses through Naubise, Mugling to Pokhara.
• Pokhara to Sarangkot and Naudanda starts from Lakeside Pokhara and heads towards Sarangkot and from there towards Naudanda. From there, ride downhill towards the highway.

The best time to go for biking is between mid-October and late March, when the atmosphere is clear the climate is temperate - warm during the days and cool during the night. Biking at other times of the year is also okay but great care should be taken while biking during the monsoon season (June to September) as the roads are slippery. Biking can be done independently or can be organized through biking companies of Nepal.

You can rent mountain bikes from simple Indian-made to real good ones locally, but remember that if you're going on a longer or harder ride, at least your own saddle would be a good option to bring. Rent goes from anywhere (November 2009) 3 (simple bike) to 30 US Dollars (western bikes with suspension).

Motorcycling

Nepal's geography and climate make for some of the best motorcycling roads in the world. The traffic is a little chaotic, but not aggressive, and the speeds are low. Be aware that you need an international driving permit in Nepal, even though you might never be stopped by the police as a tourist on a bike.

Perhaps the best and most original way to explore the country is by motorcycle. Kathmandu should be avoided by beginners, but the rest of Nepal is simply amazing. Hearts and Tears Motorcycle Club, Wild Experience Tours & Blazing Trails Tours are the better-known Names in the industry. They specialize in motorcycle touring and have a great collection of custom bikes. They are professional set-ups with imported safety equipment, structured training, and well-organized group tours.

Jungle Safari

Chitwan National Park offers elephant rides, jungle canoeing, nature walks, and birding, as well as more adventurous tiger and rhino-viewing. There are also many other less visited parks like Bardiya and Sagarmatha.

Trance Parties

"The Last Resort", near the Tibetan border, has frequent Full Moon Trance Parties, lasting 2-3 days. Watch for posters and check music shops. Pokhara has started featuring its own brand of Full Moon raves and interesting Western takes on Nepali festivals.

Buy

The official currency is the Nepalese rupee (रू, Rs.), which is pegged to the Indian rupee (₹) at a rate of 1.6 Nepali rupees to 1 Indian rupee. However, Indian rupee notes worth more than ₹100 are prohibited in Nepal, although some local non-government establishments will accept them.

There are banks in Kathmandu, Pokhara and in several other major cities that will allow you to retrieve cash from ATM or credit cards. You may be charged a service fee, depending on your bank. There are quite a number of ATMs now in those cities that are open round the clock.

Be sure to keep all currency exchange and ATM receipts as they are required at the airport bank to convert back to your original currency. If you don't have them, they will refuse to convert your currency but they will suggest going to the Duty-Free shop upstairs, even though it isn't a licensed money changer. Traveller's cheques may be useful outside of the major cities.

Prices

Momo (Nepali dumpings): 100 to 160NPR at touristy area restaurants; or 50NPR at local restaurants, often shabby looking sheds, even cheaper at nontourist areas where only locals eat, can be as cheap as 30NPR, but generally quite small.

Motorcycle rental: 700NPR per day (counted as until end of business, e.g. 7pm), without insurance coverage.

Eat

Plateful of Momo in Nepal

The Nepali national meal is daal bhaat tarkaari. It is essentially spiced lentils poured over boiled rice, and served with tarkari: vegetables such as mustard greens, daikon radish, potatoes, green beans, tomatoes, cauliflower, cabbage, squash etc, cooked with spices. This is served in most Nepalese homes and teahouses, two meals a day at about 10 AM and 7 or 8 PM. If rice is scarce the grain part may be cornmeal mush called Ato, barley, or chapatis (whole wheat 'tortillas'). The meal may be accompanied by dahi (yogurt) and a small helping of ultra-spicy fresh chutney or achar (pickle). Traditionally this meal is eaten with the right hand. Curried meat -- goat or chicken -- is an occasional luxury, and freshwater fish is often available near lakes and rivers. Because Hindus hold cattle to be sacred, beef (cow meat) is forbidden but still can be obtained for a high price in some expensive restaurants (the price is high mainly because it is imported from India). Buffalo and yak are eaten by some but considered too cow-like by others. Pork is eaten by some tribes, but not by upper-caste Hindus. And like in India, some communities and tribes are vegetarians and do not eat meat of any sort.

Outside the main morning and evening meals, a variety of snacks may be available. Tea, made with milk and sugar is certainly a pick-me-up. Corn may be heated and partially popped, although it really isn't popcorn. This is called "kha-ja", meaning "eat and run!" Rice may be heated and crushed into "chiura" resembling uncooked oatmeal that can be eaten with yogurt, hot milk and sugar, or other flavorings. Fritters called 'pakora' and turnovers called "samosa" can sometimes be found, as can sweets made from sugar, milk, fried batter, sugar cane juice, etc. Be sure such delicacies are either freshly cooked or have been protected from flies. Otherwise flies land in the human waste from the streets or inefficient sewage systems, then on your food, and so you become a walking medical textbook of gastrological conditions.

Because of the multi-ethnic nature of Nepali society, differing degrees of adherence to Hindu dietary norms, and the extreme range of climates and microclimates throughout the country, different ethnic communities often have their own specialties.

Newars, an ethnic group originally living in the Kathmandu Valley, are connoisseurs of great foods who lament that feasting is their downfall (whereas sexual indulgence is said to be the downfall of Paharis). In the fertile Kathmandu and Pokhara valleys, this cuisine often includes a greater variety of foodstuffs -- particularly vegetables -- than what are available in most of the hills. As such, Newari cuisine is quite distinct and diverse relatively compared to the other indigenous regional cuisines of Nepal, so watch out for Newari restaurants. Some of them even come with cultural shows...a great way to enjoy good food while having a crash course in Nepalese culture.

The cuisine of the Terai lowlands is almost the same as in adjacent parts of India. Locally-grown tropical fruits are sold alongside subtropical and temperate crops from the hills. In addition to bananas ('kera') and papayas ('mewa') familiar to travelers, jackfruit ('katar') is a local delicacy.

Some dishes, particularly in the Himalayan region, are Tibetan in origin and not at all spicy. Some dishes to look for include momos, a meat or vegetable-filled dumpling (similar to Chinese pot-stickers) often served with beer, and Tibetan Bread and Honey a puffy fried bread with heavy raw honey that's great for breakfast. One delicacy that you do not want to miss while in Nepal is the dried meat (it especially complements with beer/alcoholic beverages. Up in the Himalayan mountains, potatoes are the staple of the Sherpa people. Try the local dish of potato pancakes (rikikul). They are deliciously eaten straight off the griddle and covered with dzo (female yak) butter or cheese.

Pizza, Mexican, Thai and Chinese food, and Middle-Eastern food can all be found in the tourist districts of Kathmandu and Pokhara. If you are on a budget, sticking with local dishes will save a lot of money.

Note that many small restaurants are not prepared to cook several different dishes; try to stick with one or two dishes or you will find yourself waiting as the cook tries to make one after another on a one-burner stove.

As far as possible, eat only Nepali village products. Do not eat junk foods like biscuits, noodles etc. If you take only village product foods, it will help to raise their economic life.

Drink

Alcohol:

The drinking age in Nepal is 18.

• Raksi is a clear liquid, similar to tequila in alcohol content. It is usually brewed "in house", resulting in a variation in its taste and strength. This is by far the least expensive drink in the country. It is often served on special occasions in small, unbaked clay cups that hold less than a shot. It works great as a mixer in juice or soda. Note that it may appear on menus as "Nepali wine".

• Jaand (Nepali) or chyaang (Tibetan) is a cloudy, moderately alcoholic drink sometimes called Nepali beer". While weaker than raksi, it will still have quite an effect. This is often offered to guests in Nepali homes, and is diluted with water. For your safety, be sure to ask your hosts if the water has been sanitized before drinking this beverage.

• Beer production in Nepal is a growing industry. Some local beers are now also exported, and the quality of beer has reached to quite international standards International brands are popular in the urban areas.

• Cocktails can pretty much only be found in Kathmandu and Pokhara's tourist areas. There you can get watered-down "two for one drinks" at a variety of pubs, restaurants, and sports bars.

Tea:

Although not as internationally famous as Indian brands, Nepal does in fact have a large organic tea industry. Most plantations are located in the east of the country and the type of tea grown is very similar to that produced in neighboring Darjeeling. Well-known varieties are Dhankuta, Illam, Jhapa, Terathhum and Panchthar (all named after their growing regions). Unfortunately, over 70% of Nepal's tea is exported and the tea you see for sale in Thamel, while they serve as token mementos, are merely the scrapings from the bottom of the barrel.

• Milk Tea' is boiled milk with added tea, with or without sugar.
• Chay is a tea drink with added milk and also sometimes containing ginger and spices such as cardamom.
• Suja. Salty tea made with milk and butter - only available in areas inhabited by Tibetans, Sherpas and a few other Himalayan people.
• Herbal teas. Most herbal teas are made from wildflowers from the Solu Khumbu region. In Kathmandu, these teas are generally only served in high-class establishments or those run by Sherpas from the Solu Khumbu.

Water:

Problematic due to lack of sanitary facilities and sewage treatment. It is safest to assume that water is unsafe for drinking without being chemically treated or boiled, which is one reason to stick to tea or bottled water. In the Nepali neighborhoods, a five-gallon clear container of filtered/clean water sells for 55rps. In some areas stores let people fill water bottles with clean/filtered water for 10rps. per liter.

Sleep

Budget accommodation in Nepal ranges from around 250 NPR to around 750 NPR for a double. The prices you are told at first are not fixed so you should haggle. Especially if you want to stay for a longer period, you can get a large discount. Cheaper rooms usually do not have sheets, blankets, towels, or anything else besides a bed and a door. Most budget hotels and guesthouses have a wide range of rooms, so be sure to see what you are getting, even if you have stayed there before. The usual price for a three-star equivalent hotel (air-con, bathroom, Internet access and satellite TV in the room) is around 20 USD (1,500 NPR) for a double, a bit more in Kathmandu. Accommodations might easily be the cheapest part of your budget in Nepal.

However, if you prefer luxurious accommodation, the best hotels equal approximately to four-star hotels in western countries (unlimited access to swimming pool or whirlpool, no power outages, room service, very good restaurant and buffet breakfasts). Expect the price to be much higher (circa 50 USD for a double or 100 USD for an apartment, even more in Kathmandu). In these hotels, all prices are usually fixed. In Kathmandu, some luxurious hotels require going through a security check when entering.

Learn

Baudha

Thangka Painting

• Tsering Art School, offers a professional Thangka Painting Course. A minimum study period of 3 months a year for 3 years is recommended. Due to the sacred nature of this art form, those who wish to study here must have taken refuge in the Buddha, Dharma and Sangha, and consider themselves to be Buddhist. There are no boarding facilities offered at the Tsering Art School for foreign students. The school fees are 1,600 Nrs per month. Basic drawing and painting implements are required and can be purchased in Nepal. For study inquiries and enrolments please contact the school administrator, Miss Lobsang Dolma by email on: [email protected]

Work

Volunteer in Nepal

It is to be understood, that by the prevailing law of Nepal, you are not allowed to do volunteering on a tourist visa. In order to volunteer legally, the organization which will engage you must procure, accordingly, a permit and respective non-tourist visa.

Volunteering, especially at orphanages, can have harmful unintended consequences. There have been reports of children being taken away from their families in the hill regions and trafficked to fill "orphanages" in Kathmandu and Pokhara. It is a profitable business. The United Nations Childrens' Organisation UNICEF Nepal estimates that up to 85% of children at orphanages in Nepal have at least one living parent [9].

Unfortunately, volunteer tourism has mostly become more profitable than real tourism. Foreign operators and Nepali agents have found an inexhaustible supply of well-meaning but naive people who will pay sometimes even big amounts to "volunteer" in Thamel, Lakeside, and Chitwan.

Teaching English is a popular project for volunteers and is often combined with courses in computer literacy or health and physical education. The Nepali school system, which many children only attend for a few years, requires English fluency so there is always a demand for native English speakers of all ages, races, and nationalities. Mostly the organizations have no prerequisites for teaching beyond English fluency. Be aware that many schools, especially private ones, charge families higher fees for "foreign teachers present" and often local available English teachers may not find work due to foreign (mostly illegally engaged) volunteers. If you want to teach, a school may request and obtain a non-tourist visa so you can eventually teach legally.

There are many options for finding volunteer opportunities. Several international volunteer organizations, INGO and local NGOs (International Non-Government Organization, Non-Government Organization) will find you a project, room, and boarding - either at the school or with a local family - for a fee. This "fee" can range from US ~$500 to US $2000 depending on the type and length of the program. Often only a little of the money will go to the school and host family (often they are too poor to even support a volunteer; the bulk often goes however to the agency.)

Another option would be to look for a volunteer program on Volunteer World. Volunteer World, Düsseldorf, Germany, [x]. is a social start up that helps grassroot projects all over Nepal and interested volunteers worldwide to get in touch. Volunteers can compare and contact the social projects while the local NGOs receive the support and attention they need to fulfill their great cause.

Some organizations will provide language and culture lessons as well as general teaching supplies and support. Once you make a deposit on a particular program there may be limited options for change. Programs can last from two weeks to five months if made with a tourist visa but keep in mind regular, legal work and a longer stay may be more rewarding for both you and the school, as it can take several weeks to get into the swing of things. Above all, examine carefully how your money is spent and who really benefits.

An alternative to paid placement is to find a local, grassroots program, or to contact schools directly in Kathmandu when you arrive. Local hostels and restaurants usually have bulletin boards full of often doubtful requests for volunteers. More and more local groups are placing ads on the web as well. These programs are more likely to charge only for room & board, but you will need to do some research to find out the specifics of each group and what, if any, support you will receive. Waiting until you arrive also lets you get to know the areas you can volunteer in and allows you to shop around for a situation that best suits you. These placements tend to be longer-term (3-5 months), but this is always negotiable with a specific school or project.

Always check that your volunteer work is done legally. It is also recommended that you check whether your engagement does not take away the work of other people (although it is unclear how to check that), and that the community profits most from the deal. Report to police or other serious NGO/INGO any kind of misuse. Always demand written receipts with complete organization address, stamp and signatures. This helps to prevent siphoning off of precious development funds, which generally tend to not reach the intended beneficiaries most of the time (estimates go from 85-95% wasted money for "logistics", "office expenses", "allowances", vehicles and so forth!!)

Girls Empowered by Travel is an NGO based in Kathmandu that arranges volunteer trips to support small villages in the Himalayas, Hilltop, and Terai regions. Contact information is available on their website to find out about current opportunities.

Stay safe

Nepal is internationally known for its overwhelming friendliness and hospitality towards foreigners. However, there is still a low crime rate so use your common sense.

Watch out for pick-pockets and bag-snatching, particularly in airports, buses in tourist areas like Thamel, Sanepa and Kupondol in Kathmandu. Take care when walking around at night.

Avoid solo trekking. Murders and disappearances happen in Langtang. Consider walking in pairs.

Travel by bus or air into the hills and mountains is statistically hundreds of times riskier than normal travel in Western Europe and the U.S. As an example, Lukla - the entry point for the Mount Everest trek - is home to the most dangerous airport in the world owing to its infamous cliff-top location and high elevation. Be conservative about your exposure to these risks. Risks are highest during the summer monsoon (June-September) and scheduled bus or air service may be canceled due to storms and landslides.

Stay away from strikes and demonstrations. They can turn violent.

If your country has an embassy or consulate in Nepal, let them know your whereabouts and plans.

Get insurance that will cover medical evacuation by helicopter if you plan on trekking mountains Inform your embassy or consulate about this insurance and contact them if you need evacuation.

Double-check your belongings when you enter the country and don't take anything from people you don't know. Traffickers are known to use innocent victims' luggage to smuggle drugs to Nepal. This is a serious offense punishable by as much as 15 years in prison. Bribes are hefty and hard to arrange.

Stay healthy

• Minimizing gastrointestinal problems - Since most of Nepal still gets along without modern sanitation, these are endemic. They range from self-limiting attacks of diarrhea where dehydration is the main risk, through intestinal parasites, amoebic dysentery and giardiasis which are chronic without proper medical treatment, to immediately life-threatening infections like cholera and typhoid. Habituation even to common intestinal flora generally takes about a year and many unpleasant bouts of stomach problems, so tourists contemplating shorter stays should take extensive precautions. Filter or treat your own water, use bottled or boiled water or stick with beverages made from water that has been thorough boiled and filtered. Tea or coffee from cafes catering to tourists are 'generally' safe. If purchasing the bottled water, make sure the lid is sealed, and that the water does not leak from a sealed bottle flipped upside down (if it does, it is possible to empty the bottle and fill it up with the tap water without breaking the seal, so there is no assurance the water is not tap water). If you're concerned about the environment, keep in mind there are no recycling facilities for plastic bottles, so consider limiting the use of bottled water.
  • When trekking carry iodine or other chemical means of treating water and be sure to follow directions, i.e. don't drink the water before the specified time interval to ensure that resistant cysts are deactivated. According to Centers for Disease Control and Prevention iodine and chlorine is effective against bacteria and virus, but does not protect against parasites such as Cryptosporidium and Giardia. In trailside teashops, although glasses may be washed in questionable water, tea is made by pouring boiling water through tea dust into your glass. The chances of disease-causing organisms surviving are small but not zero.
  • Brush teeth with prepared drinking water and avoid water entering the mouth when showering.
  • Salads, especially in the wet season, should be treated as suspect.
  • Wash hands regularly and especially before eating.
  • Thoroughly wash fruit and vegetables for raw consumption using boiled and filtered water. Also consider peeling them.
  • Look for freshly-cooked food and avoid anything that has been cooked and then left sitting around without refridgeration (which can expose you to a buildup of bacterial toxins), or without protection from flies (which can transfer disease organisms and parasite eggs to the food).
  • Also see the Travellers' diarrhea article.
• Get vaccinated and consider prophylactic treatment. You may be exposed to typhoid, cholera, hepatitis, malaria, and possibly even rabies. Read the article on Tropical diseases and review travel plans with your health care provider.
• Practice safe sex or do without. Nepali women are sought after in India and the Middle East and so there is human trafficking. Victims may be allowed to return home when health issues become a liability, then continue 'working' as long as possible. The incidence of STDs is rising and the government has not always been proactive about treatment and promoting awareness. Unless your Nepali is extremely fluent, your chances of finding out about a prospective partner's sexual history are slim.
• Altitude sickness Permanent snow lines are between 5,500 m and 5,800 m (18,000 ft and 19,000 ft), so base camps and passes in the Himalaya are usually higher than Mount Blanc or Mount Whitney. This puts even experienced mountain climbers at risk of altitude-related medical conditions that can be life-threatening. Risks can be minimized by choosing routes that don't go high, such as Pokhara-Jomsom, or routes and trekking companies where Gamow bags or other treatment are available, and by sleeping not more than 300 m (1,000 ft) higher per day. According to the "climb high, sleep low" mantra, it is good to take daytime conditioning hikes that push acclimation, then return to a more reasonable elevation at night.
• Hypothermia is a risk, especially if you are trekking in spring, autumn, or winter to avoid heat at low elevations. When it is a comfortable 30°C (85°F) in the Terai, it is likely to be in the teens Fahrenheit or -10°C (14°F) at that base camp or high pass. Either be prepared to hike and sleep in these temperatures (and make sure your comrades, guides and porters are equally prepared), or choose a trek that doesn't go high. For example, at 3,000 m (10,000 ft) expect daytime temperatures in the 40s Fahrenheit or 5 to 10°C.
• Rabies - Dogs are not vaccinated and catch this fatal disease from other dogs or wild animals with some regularity. All mammals are potentially vulnerable. Dogs are considered ritually polluting and are widely abused, so it can be impossible to know whether a dog bit you because it is paranoid about people or because it is rabid. You should be vaccinated against rabies before going to Nepal, but this is not absolute protection. Be on the lookout for mammals acting disoriented or hostile and stay as far away as possible. Do not pet dogs, cats or pigs no matter how cute. Keep a distance from monkeys, especially in places like the Monkey Temple in Kathmandu. If bitten or exposed to saliva, seek medical attention. You may need an extended series of injections that provides a higher level of protection than routine vaccination.
• Snakebite - The risk is greatest in warm weather and at elevations below 1,500 m (5,000 ft). Venomous snakes are fairly common and cause thousands of deaths annually. Local people may be able to differentiate between venomous and non-venomous species. Cobras raise their bodies in the air and spread their hoods when annoyed; itinerant snake charmers are likely to have specimens for your edification. Vipers have triangular heads and may have thick bodies like venomous snakes in North America. Kraits may be the most dangerous due to innocuous appearance and extremely potent neurotoxin venom. Kraits are strangely passive in daylight but become active at night, especially around dwellings where they hunt rodents. Krait bites may be initially painless, causing only numbness. However without proper antivenin numbness can progress to deadly paralysis, even with bites from small, seemingly harmless specimens. Wearing proper shoes and pants rather than sandals and shorts provides some protection. Watch where you put your feet and hands, and use a flashlight when walking outside at night. Sleeping on elevated beds and on second stories helps protect against nocturnal kraits.

Respect

Greet people with a warm Namaste (or "Namaskar" formal version - to an older or high-status person) with palms together, fingers up. It is used in place of hello or goodbye. Don't say it more than once per person, per day. The least watered-down definition of the word: 'The divine in me salutes the divine in you.'

Show marked respect to elders.

Say Thank you: Dhanyabaad /'ðɅnjɅbɑ:d/ (Dhan-ya-baad)

Feet are considered dirty. Don't point the bottoms of your feet (or your bum!) at people, or at religious icons. In this vein, be sure not to step over a person who may be seated or lying on the ground. Be sensitive to when it is proper to remove your hat or shoes. It is proper to take off your shoes before entering a residential house.

The left hand is considered unclean because it is used to wash after defecating. Many Nepali Hotel & Guest House toilets have bidet attachments (like a kitchen sink sprayer) for this purpose in lieu of toilet paper. It is considered insulting to touch anyone with the left hand. It is proper to poke someone, take and give something with the right hand.

Circumambulate temples, chortens, stupas, mani walls, etc. clockwise. (ie, with your right side closest to the object or respect)

When haggling over prices, smile, laugh, and be friendly. Be prepared to allow a reasonable profit. Don't be a miser or insult fine craftsmanship, be reasonable.

Many Hindu temples do not allow non-Hindus inside certain parts of the temple complex. Be aware & respectful of this fact, as these are places of worship, not tourist attractions.

Being a non-Hindu makes you moderately low caste, but not an untouchable. Avoid touching containers of water; let someone pour it into your drinking container. Likewise, avoid touching food that others will be eating. Make sure you are invited before entering someone's house. You may only be welcome on the outer porch, or in the yard. Shoes are routinely left on the front porch or in a specific area near the front door.

Wash hands before and after eating. Touch food only with the right hand if you're not left-handed.

Contact

Internet

The use of email is growing, although its availability is most widespread in Kathmandu (especially in Thamel and around the Boudha Stupa in Boudhanath) or Pokhara. However, Namche, in the Everest region, has several internet cafes that use satellite connections, but the cost is more than NPR140/min (USD2) compared to NPR30 in Kathmandu.

Phone calls are best made from any of the international phone offices in Kathmandu-- Voice over Internet (VOI) is usually NPR1-2/min. Wi-Fi in Hotels is free from any cafes and hotels if you tune in and ask for a password or host a hub in your cell. Whatsapp is obviously the most reliable way to stay in touch with those out of the country and to hotel operators who use the main mobile number as a password to connect the inhouse Wi-Fi.

Post

Mail can be received at many guesthouses or at Everest Postal Care, opposite Fire & Ice on Tri Devi Maag.

Mobile phones

There are two main mobile operators in Nepal - the government-run NTC (Nepali Telecom Company), and private Ncell (previously called Spice Mobile and Mero Mobile).

Both operators allow tourists to buy SIM cards for about NPR200 in Kathmandu and most towns. You will need to bring a passport photo, fill in a form and have your passport and visa page photocopied, also expect to have your fingerprints taken. Try to buy the SIM card at a shop owned by the phone company; if you buy it from a corner shop it can take some time for the card to be activated, despite promises that it will be done in "a couple of hours".

Ncell SIM's - can be bought from many stores, but are best bought from official stores in Birgunj or Kathmandu (they can also cut it to micro SIM for free if you need). Ncell offers two different SIM cards. The first is a usual SIM card that allows you to make calls to any phone (local calls are about NPR2.5/min); you can also buy mobile data to use. The second is a data only SIM card which can not be used for making or receiving calls. The advantage of the second sim is that the rates for data are significantly cheaper than a call and data SIM. Note that on Ncell SIM cards, tethering is not enabled by default. However, their data works when you just switch between 2g and 3g depending on what reception is available (there is no cheaper prices for only 2g). Just to give an idea on data package prices: 500MB: NPR199, 1GB: NPR699, 5GB: NPR1999 + taxes . You can get coverage maps on their site, although they now have 3G reception at the Mt Everest base camp (although not on the trek to the base camp).

NTC SIMs - NTC SIMs can usually only be bought from their official offices. They often have a shortage of SIM cards, and you may have to wait up to 10 days to receive one. They do not publish their coverage maps. However, they do have superior remote coverage to Ncell, particularly on the Anapurna Circuit trek. Besides 2G network NTC also has 3G(UMTS) network and CDMA one. For accessing 3G(UMTS) you need to pay some extra money as it's shown as forbidden by default. Prices for data traffic in 2G and CDMA networks is 1MB: NPR0.50. The only data package available for CDMA is 5GB for NPR2,500 and it comes with CDMA modem (which is usually out of stock in their offices).

Get out

• Mount Kailash - Actually in Tibet, a short distance beyond the NW corner of Nepal. Jainism and Buddhist cosmology describe the cosmos as a central mountain, Mount Meru, surrounded by the earth's continents and seas, then by the rest of the universe. Cambodia's Angkor Wat temple complex is actually an architectural representation of this schema. As geographical knowledge developed, Mount Kailash was proclaimed the physical manifestation of Mount Meru. It is the hydrologic hub of the subcontinent. The Karnali, Sutlej Indus and Brahmaputra rivers all begin near this mountain. Hindus and Buddhists gain religious merit by circumambulating the mountain.

• India - There are several overland border crossings between Nepal and India, but make sure you have an Indian visa beforehand if you need one. The border crossings are (India/Nepal side) Sunauli/Bhairawa from Varanasi, Raxaul/Birganj from Patna, Kolkata, Kakarbhitta from Darjeeling, and Mahendrenagar-Banbassa from Delhi.

• China / Tibet - The Chinese government is funding a road connection between Lhasa and Kathmandu. Currently, foreign travelers can fly or take a train to Tibet from mainland China or fly to Lhasa from Kathmandu, see Tibetan Journeys for details.

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