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Snagged a nice SBC 350 high nickel standard bore block | Chevy Nova Forum
Got a nice SBC 350 high nickel standard bore engine block today from my buddy Steve. He got it out of a 1976 Camaro with around 70,000 miles on it. He was saving it for one of his projects but that fell through and since I was looking to get a nice block he just gave it to me.
Going to pull the engine this upcoming fall and have the bottom end all redone. Think my engine block has some machine work issues and the bottom end needs to be redone soon anyway. This will give me a nice foundation to start with.
Here's a few pics. Always cool to have a spare engine block hanging around in the garage! :yes:
Not sure honestly. I just went off of what my buddy told me. But I did a quick search online and found this...
Edit: David Vizard says this in his book "Budget Building Max Performance Chevy Small Blocks:"
"The best blocks to get are the blocks that have a number 010 and 020 under the timing chain cover. These have 1% tin, and 2% nickel. The tin is used to help the metal flow better into the casting mold.
These blocks are the least prone to cracking. Also, because they pour more easily, they have the least problems with hot spots caused by porous metal. If you find a block that only has one number that's either a 010 or a 020, this means it has no additionally added tin, but does have one or two percent nickel."
The block I have has 010/020 in the timing cover area and also says 509. So it's supposedly a high nickel block which is supposed to be less prone to cracking. Who knows if that's really true or not.
I'm just glad I got the block for free haha! He had it hot tanked and checked for cracks a while back too and that came back good so it should make for a good start on my rebuild.
All Casting info on GM blocks is propitiatory info.
The 010 & 020 is nothing more than a sand cast number for the front part, letting the founder know it's for a block ending in 010/020 Being a 350/305 engine block.
As time went on the later model block got better and better.
THE 010 /020 IS A TOTAL UNFOUNDED PUBLISHED RUMOR BY SOMEONE WHO IS NOT INFORMED!
FYI
AL
PS: This does not make your block any more valuable or less valuable.
Yeah I've spent a good part of tonight reading up on all this 010/020 high nickel/tin stuff on these old GM blocks and it sounds like it's just a myth. It sounds like it was a plan GM had at one point in time but then realized it was too difficult to track what was acually poured into each block but they never changed the casting numbers on the blocks?
Either way, it looks to be a good block. There is no lip at the top of the cylinder walls and it's a standard bore, so it should be something good to work with.
The best part was it was free. So if it checks out good with a sonic test it'll be a good block to use and keep costs down on the bottom end rebuild.
Think he said it was a four bolt, but not sure honestly. I need to check it over more. He just dropped it off tonight, we got it on the engine stand, put a trash bag over it and tucked it away in the garage.
Not sure, I'll have to go out there and check. I'm kind of a noob with the engine block stuff, ever dealt much with any of it before, just sort of messed with top end stuff.
I'll take a look tomorrow and check out the mains.
Looks like a 2 bolt main block to me. Here's a pic of the underneath...
I've heard 4 bolt main blocks are stronger but I know quite a few guys who've used 2 bolt main blocks for years with no issues. My engine is around 450hp and I don't plan on upping that at all with new parts, just reusing my old stuff, so I'm assuming it'll hold up just fine.
Thanks for the info Al! That's cool with me, it was free so it's all good!
My buddy said he has the main caps at his house still. I'll have to get those from him at some point soon. Whenever I get them I'll check the numbers on them.
There is a difference between the 010 block and the 010/020 block look at the webbing. The 010 usually have a K on the main caps or on the back of the block.
The 010/020 is the desired webbing when building a performance build.
The 010/020 blocks you can set up for dry sump and feed above the timing cover.
I built a 327 for a friend and he mixed up all his rod caps. I went thru each one and matched up the tool markings where they were machined and matched all of them up. Never had a problem with it.
What's the difference? Not too educated on machine shop talk, this is the first time I'm going through with bottom end work involving machining on the block, etc.
I guess I'll have to look at it more when the time comes. The engine builder my buddy deals with deals with the machine shop all the time so I'm sure he's up to speed on a lot of this stuff as well.
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